Archive through August 23, 2005

[jmetzinger]

Trying to put my Cub Cadet 149 driveline back together today. Previus owner welded engine/driveshaft coupler solid. Well it finally let loose, sheered the four 1/4" bolts off of crank hub. In the process of self-destruction ate the crank hub. I have all new parts and am putting back together

. Question is, can someone tell me the correct amount of ft. lbs. of torque to apply on the rear engine crankshaft nut? Thanks, Jeff

 

[kweimann]

Jeff,
50-60 foot-pounds

 

[jdavis]

Lonny B
Everything seems to be tight other than the drive
plate to shaft fit.The Clutch arm does not ride on the throw out bearing,and the arm pivot pin
shows no wear.It looks like the bushing in the
drive plate is were the play is.Is this bushing not replaceable?
Thanks Jimmy

 

[mtoney]

Curt, the smaller one, size of a coffee cup is correct for that tractor, that is the one that I have on my 72, only thing I dont have correct is my lights are the latter style for the 73 with the square chrome headlight trim. Looks good enough for me though. I have one of the larger ones on my wife's model 86 cub. Cheers Mike

 

[lbuttke]

Jimmy,
Yes the brass bushing is replaceable.
I belive the part # is, IH-376265-R1
Check with your local cub dealer, he should be able to order you one.
You might even be able to get one form one of the sponcers of this fine site.

 

[jdavis]

Thanks Lonny
I will check with some of these folks on this site.Also lonny the # 20 spacer on the diagram
you sent is not on my drive line.One drawing
shows it and another don't.I don't think this shaft has ever been apart and it don't have one.
Thanks Jimmy

 

[dphelps]

Roland B & Matt G Thanks for the pics, I've had both of those hydro problems. The leaking check valve got soo bad that when I took the tunnel cover off it would spit fluid about a foot high.

 

[lbuttke]

Jimmy,
Part #20 spacer spring should be part# 911-3040 and the brash bushing should be
part # IH-376265-R2 instead of IH-376265-R1 from what I found on parts-smart online.

 

[mbounds]

Lonny and others: FYI:....The difference between an -R1 and a -R2 is that the R1 indicates an original supply source. An R2 indicates a secondary supplier of that part. R3 would indicate a third supplier, etc. It does not mean a change in the part although sometimes, when the original design specs or supply sources are no longer available, MTD contracted secondary and tertiary suppliers will slightly modify the original design like they did with the Iso-Mounts- they will still work though.
Myron B

 

[kmcconaughey]

Myron, thanks for the info, that's good to know.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Myron B. That is interesting what you posted on the R1, R2, etc. The parts people at the IH delerships and then the two fellas that I worked with from IH told me that the R1 or C1, C2, designations were updates or revisions to the original part design. Sort of like the Original front axle or the 100 grille castings. The numbers 1,2,3, etc. simply meant that a design was improved upon or changed and had nothing to do with suppliers. It was the same part in essence. In some cases when I had brought in the old part for comparision the parts guys would actually show me where the subtle change had been made.

 

[dfrisk]

MYRON - Marlin's right. I had My Super H parts book here at work yesterday... (Had to call Apostle Ken for some Farmall parts) and it has a nice explaination of the R-1 vs R-2, etc. numbering system IHC used. When I was at FARMALL I had some parts I bought from four different suppliers and they all had the same part number.

 

[mbounds]

Dennis F: Weeel, its kinda like the apples or oranges fruit question. If you are only dealing with pre-1985 IH made parts, then your observation is correct. I have IH publication 1 008 319 R3, dtd 6-62, subject: <u>What</u> is a Parts Number? (their underline not mine). Howsomever, last count I had, Cub Cadet parts have been supplied by MTD since 1982. MTD was/is under no obligation to follow the IH rules on the subject even when they continued to use the original IH parts numbers. In today's world, my recent Regional Cub Cadet man sed "they change the R numeral suffix when the change suppliers". Fact or fiction?? I can't document it, but my observations as a Cub Cadet Dealer parts man for several years would support the Regional Managers statement.
Myron B

 

[mhomrighausen]

Oh, man... this is fascinating.

Soo... MTD must change suppliers quite often then. Yes, MTD was never under any obligation to use the IH rules. It seems somewhat odd that they would do something like that. What if like where I work where we have two different suppliers for the exact same part? It would get dang confusing to have a slightly different number for the same part. When I asked the parts people at the dealerships that I go into the standard reply is as they were informed by their regional sales reps... MTD sometimes keep the old IH number rather than change due to convenience of not having to repackage old existing IH stock they bought. My Cub dealer has actually cross referenced some gaskets from the MTD numbers to a CaseIH part and found it is the same IH number. So, as I stated earlier.... danged interesting this number thingy. Oh well... as long as the part fits.

 

[lbuttke]

As long as the part number is still good and don't come up NLA (now Lonny's angry)I like the fact MTD still has parts for our beloved old cub cadets, someday there will come a day when we will be unable to get even the simplest of parts. That will be a sad day here.

 

[mbounds]

Marlin H...Continuing the commentary...The IH numbers MTD kept are parts that <u>only</u> fit IH made models and are not used on CCC/MTD made models. Any part (regardless of model) which is the same as a part used on any CCC 1986 or later model will have a MTD style part number. If you do some parts checking, you will find the R1,R2,R3 suffixes will often differ between Cub Cadet and Case/IH. Why?? Well, the are often the exact same parts. I have observed that Case/IH seems to be keeping to the old IH suffix rules while MTD seems to not, in numerous instances.

After I left the CC dealership, I became involved with a IH Tractor Parts business. We also handled parts for IH made Cub Cadets. So we cross shopped for the better pricing on common parts and these suffix differences became very apparent.
Myron B

 

[mgonitzke]

Well, not much progress on the 782, have to wait for a couple of gaskets in order to proceed. I have, however, obtained some interesting information on why this hydro may have failed. According to several engineers that design hydrostatic systems for aircraft, the damage was created by the motor assembly overspeeding (in simpler terms, turning faster than the pump). The only way I know of to create that situation is to tow the tractor with the release valves not functioning. That would cause the motor to turn faster than the pump, which would not be turning at all.

Now for an explanation of the damage towing causes:
When the tractor is towed, this causes the motor to rotate but not the pump. Because of this, the pistons are sucked into the cylinder block so hard that they separate from the slippers and retainer. This breaks the retainer in the process which tears up the swash plate. All these parts jam the motor and cause the odd symptoms I have been describing.

So that's why your hydro CC has the "Do Not Tow" decal. I think this should prove that towing the tractor does cause very serious and expensive damage. I thought I would explain this because we've always been told not to tow these things but not why not to tow them. Hope this clears this up a bit. At the very least, it did for me.

 

[lbuttke]

Gots a question for you all.
What do you do when you sold a moldbaord plow to someone and it has been paid for, but not picked up in a year.
I told this person I would hold it for him until the snow flew and he could pay for it when he picked it up. Well he sent the money for the plow a few days later and said he be by to pick up the plow. I still have it.
I get no responces to the e-mails I have sent inquireing as to when the plow will bw picked up.
The sale was made last year.
What should I do?

 

[mhomrighausen]

Myron B. Now that makes sense all along there.

Still to have that system just doesn't seem to make any sense. I wonder how the company handles a parts revision? If MTD is happy with it then so be it. Like Lonny says, "...as long as the part is still available..."

 

[mhomrighausen]

Finally got some pictures resized of the 100 that I got in June. It is # 123,813. It needs some TLC for sure. It has been in a shed for the last 8-9 years. The deck is solid and also needs some TLC. Angel even likes the little fella. You will notice that on the grille casting there is three evenly spaced holes. both sides are the same spacing. I wonder what went there? Also,the hood was moved forward to prevent hitting the steering wheel. Well, with the casting removed I noticed the frame is cracked and bent. A new carburetor and air cleaner were on the engine. The old carb and air cleaner were on the seat. Someone had welded the pto to the s/g pulley.