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Archive through August 23, 2005

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Thought I'd post a few pics.
The first two are in honor of Art A., one of the guys (along with Tedd Ill, Kraig McK.,and Bryan McMeen) who really helped get me started in the hobby. I purchased an Agri-fab row crop cultivator from Art and it's been one of the main-stays in my gardening implements.
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Took me a while, tho, to learn that ya gotta get the weeds while their young, i.e., just sprouting from the ground. The 2nd pic is evidence that I didn't get to it quick enough. The good news is that more frequent cultivating means less weeds and most importantly, more seat time. (Of course, my lovely Frau has seen this as some sort of obsessive behavioral disorder). But, now that we have Brocoli, Green Beans, Snap peas, Strawberrys, Chives, etc. coming out of our ears, she's quieted down. . .
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Those pics I've posted before. This next one I don't think I have. It's a pic of my 124 just after I painted the engine. I'm not a purist, I just use rattle cans on a working tractor, but it's sweet to me just the same. . .
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Tedd,
LOL. Boy, the book gets around. Enjoy. BTW, saw a great documentary on PBS the other day about the LA/SF Daylight trains. Very cool. Look for it.
--R
 
I am looking at purchasing a tiller attachment and they are telling me I will need "The rear gear box" What are they talking about, and where do I get one?
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Ed, here's what they look like and you'll have to check the classifieds, or find a tiller that comes with it.

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Ed,

The gear box that Kraig posted is part of the tiller and should come with it. They are very hard to find "stand alone". I would advise passing on that tiller and getting one from the classifieds here WITH the complete gear box.
 
I have been looking in the classified for one and not finding any I went to ebay. Is there any other manufactures of tiller attachments that can be made to work on a cadet 71?
 
Steve B,
I was listening to the Linder report this morning and it really sounds bad for crops down your way in spots. And others are gonna have bumper crops less than a 100 miles away! Geez!

Oh, stand alone gearboxes are growin out of the gravel up this way.
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Charlie, mind if I stop by and do a little weeding? :eek:)
 
Ed, Hmmmm, Matt Kopishke posted one in the classifieds, along with some other stuff, on August 15th. It's a model 1A with one extension it's has the front mule drive for a wide frame but the mule drive you have for your 71 should work just fine with a couple of changes that are outlined in the manual I can send you scans of a few pages of the manual. It might still be for sale. He has a link to photos posted in the classifieds. From the looks of it in the photo it's in nice condition.
 
Cub Cadet 1450. I failed in my attempt to locate the posting, I believe last Spring, about removing the steering wheel and checking the column. Within the last week I noticed I get about a 1/4 turn on the wheel left and right, before the wheel linkage moves. I'm thinking that something is misaligned or something got stripped or dropped off. The manuals don't help much. My dealer is even less helpful. Can anyone guide me to that post about removing the steering wheel and checking the column? If not in the wheel/column connection any advice or suggestions on other sources of the problem (and how to get at it to check it out) would be appreciated.
 
GARY S.- The big bold blue letters at the top of this page saying "FAQ" will lead You to another page with a real nice descriptive write-up (#16)on Your 1450's steering gearbox. All the early CC gearboxes were the same, just the tube & steering shaft the wheel attaches to were different. The 982 (red) and later Super Garden tractors had different steering gear.
It takes a few parts to make them like new again but it's worth it.
 
My brother spotted a cadet sitting along side the road last weekend with a "FREE" sign on it. He asked if I wanted it. Well he dropped off tonight what he thought was an 81. We jumped it with a good battery. It cranked over but no fire. The tank is coated with rust inside. We tried cranking it again and gave it a faint sniff of starting fluid. She started to try and run. OK, now I just need to get the tank cleaned out and good gas in it. Upon further inspection, it turned out to be a 111. It is missing the hood so I expect it to be smashed like most of them are. The 81 I have for parts has a damaged hood but I may be able to make it usable to put on the 111. Are most of the parts interchangable between these units? I will have to take some pictures this weekend.
 
Just got the driveline back in the 128 today.
New anti-rattle springs, still got a lot of vibration.The shaft is not wore.Does the drive
coupling have a replaceable bushing? That
seems to be a lot of the slack in the shaft.
Thanks Jimmy
 
Jimmy F.
Make sure your clutch arm (#10) is not resting on the throwout bearing (#3), also check to see if the pivot holes are not worn, also the pivot pin. Also check to make sure the return spring (#17)is in good shape, not streched out or weak.
I ha
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Jimmy D/Lonny -

When I had my 100, I would always have to replace my return spring once a year - something about sitting in the damp shed would rust them then break them. Then the pedal would bounce around and rattle as it rode the bearing.

I would also say to take a peek at the hole in the crossmember that the spring goes into - if it's wallowed out it'll let it all rattle, too.
 
Charlie -

Yep, and that one lasted. It's still on there!
 
For those of you that ever wondered what is on the inside of those Sundstrand Hydro Automatic Check Valves, here is a pics of one that I cut open. This valve was bad, in that, it leaked HyTran out the top of the breather hole. From looking at this setup, it would appear, that the little "O" ring [Red Arrow] is worn and allows Hytran to ooze by.

The internal parts are installed and then the End Cap is crimped on, thus holding all the parts inside.

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The ground seems a bit to dry to plow.
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Heavy clay soil, very little moisture.
 

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