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Archive through August 22, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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STEVE B. - I remember the one night I plowed for the BTO neighbor I worked for. He was getting short of tractors, I used a 4020 gas on 5-14's in a half mile long 80 acre field. Started about 8 PM, was supposed to cloud up and rain but didn't, about 10 PM the clouds blew over and there was a really bright moon that night. With the moon out I'd turn the lights off and could still see the plow well enough in the moon light, and see beyond what the headlights would light up. The exhaust manifold on that old 4020 was glowing red/orange all night! 16 rounds per 34 gal tank of gas, not enough left to make a 17th round, so gassed up at Midnight, went back out, made another 16 rounds, was at the gas barrel gassing up again @ 4 AM when the neighbor came out to start chores.

I was planning on going back out to plow but a car pulled into his driveway. Turned out it was Dad, he'd just got off work from drivng a fuel transport for FS, got home and Mom was up, scared that something happened to me. Geesh Mom, I was turning on the north headland only 5/8ths of a mile from the house! You could have seen me from any south facing window! But my night of plowing was over. Went home, slept for 2-3 hours, and went back to work hauling manure, my 4020 gas was off doing something else. If I'd have had the 4020 diesel or 4320 I sure could have gotten a lot more plowed that night! I could have run in 5th gear instead of 4th, and run from 8 PM to 4 AM straight.
 
Daniel, is there a reason you want the external brakes over the internal brake? The linkages are slightly different, however you should be able to mix and match the linkages to get a setup that works. Most likely you'll need both the hydro control and brakes linkages from the 129. But I do not know for sure.
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Kraig,
No I actually like the internal better,but the 125 hydro takes forever to move in reverse and a little quicker going forward.Once it gets hot,seems to work ok.I just thought this would be the easist fix.
 
Daniel, the easiest thing then would be to swap just the hydrostatic pump from the 129 rather than the entire rear end. This way you'll only have to deal with the hydro control linkages and not the brake linkages. Would be a good time to replace the cork gasket on the hydro with a neoprene one as this is a typical point of leakage. You might even want to swap out just the valves as a test before you go to all the trouble of dealing with the linkages...
 
Yesterday I had the good fortune of obtaining a Cub Cadet rake. I downloaded the manual and the rake appears to be complete except for the axle carrier brackets and springs. Are the springs used only as a lifting assistance or am I missing their purpose? Wouldn’t the spring assist on my 100 serve as well? Thanks in advance for your help!

Another question: Does anyone have a paint code for a Pincor generator?

And while I’m here, here’s another question. I removed the oxidation and shined up several headlight retainer rings. What would be a good way to keep them shiny for the next 50 years?

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Dan, I think you've got to delve a little deeper into the problem with the 125's hydro before you attempt your swap. There's been a few posts lately involving linkage adjustment and relief valves.
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Hello all, I've finally had time to get some Cub work in. I was wondering, if while I'm replacing the brake pads in my 71's rearend, should I replace anything else besides gaskets? What should I look for in there?
 
Paul, Paul, Paul,
I don't live <u>that</u> far away. I had a set of those springs on mine and they didn't do a thing for me. You won't be needing down pressure on the rake anyhow.
 
Paul T,

Nice find on the rear mount rake and in great shape as well!
 
Jeremiah,

About those nightmares and retirement, I don't recall having any nightmares about retirement.

I do recall buying a 1250 that became a Nightmare. I have that 1250 Nightmare regularly and enjoy every bit of it. It's okay. That Nightmare is not for sale.
 
Paul T. As Tom H. said or didn't say the springs and brackets were used to put down pressure on the rake. Nice find btw.
 
Main bearings finally arrived!! Got a little work done last night. Hope to get the block sealed and bolted together yet this weekend. Got to looking at the old bearings and noticed that they were 10 over(or is that under?) bearings but they measured the same as the standard bearings. I wonder if the last person that rebuilt it had a 'worn' set of 10 over bearings and said 'what the heck' and used them? I checked the crank and it is dead nut standard so the bearings I pulled out would have had to have been worn or machined to size. Strange the things you find on other peoples work. The bearings themselves were scored pretty bad , sure hope the last person didn't install them like that.
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Brian ... I've never assembled one of them, but unless they use stressed rod bolts that you can't reuse, I'd put the rods on that, using some Plastigage, and check clearances before buttoning it up.. I think you found the problem with it....zero clearances on the inserts..
 
Hi Fellas,
My 129 just had a LH steering knuckle "mal-function".
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Is this part interchangeable between all 129s?

Will the same part off a narrow frame 125 Cub work on a 129 without modifications?

Thanks in Adance, Guys!
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RWilke
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Harry: I've wasted another perfectly good morning wading through my old mathematics textbook to correct my calculations and learning how to implement them in Excel. I can now say with confidence that, based on the measurements you gave me the finished piece is closer to 9-13/16" than the 10" you eyeballed, and that the flat from which it was created started out with a length of 10-7/16". I calculate the "base" under the first "rise" off the cylinder head at 1-7/16" (1.43352) with a rise of 1" (1.0038), again, given a 35 degree angle from horizontal. The "base" of the turn-down at the front is 13/16" (0.79549) and the "rise" is the same, given the 45 degree angle. Therefore, I'm coming up with a difference in the height of between 3/16" and 1/4" for the turndown at the front of the muffler versus the rise off the cylinder head (0.20826).

I have noted the dimensions more consistently on the earlier photo:

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Note: I did not attempt to account for metal gains. If you come up with slightly different measurements on revisiting the piece, I will be happy to plug them into my formulas and give you the results.

Rich: It would be great for all 169 owners if Harry would do what you suggest, we're both hoping that someone who has a baffle that came as part to the original Noise Suppression kit will step forward. We've seen pictures of the differences, but have been given no dimensions to verify.

Gerry: Please read Rich's tag line, we're trying to get the design worked out (an iterative process) BEFORE we got to cutting and bending so that we WON'T wind up with a "Baffle from Hell." Although I'm taking your jibe in good spirits, it seems that anything work doing is worth doing two and three times, on this Donald Tanner and I agree.
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Edit: Brian, Thanks for the update, I was wondering how you were making out. I agree with Gerry's assessment and recommendations.
 
Gerry,

I wouldn't doubt it. I've just been following the service manual step by step, this is the first one I've ever done. The book warns against over torquing, loosing and torquing to spec, as well as taking a new set to 140 in-lbs and then leaving it. I'm not real sure one this one but I took it literally and brought it down to spec and left it there. It never mentioned checking the clearance on the rod caps, however, it did call it out in several other areas of the motor ie. crank shaft end play, cam end play, main bearing tolerance and so on. I can't really say if I'm right or wrong on this one but I see your point.

I think the fit felt good on every thing going together so
 
Jeremiah - hey, I gound a protactor so I measured the angles. Unfortunately you're gonna have to redo some calculations. The center bend is actual 42 and 1/2degrees, and the rise is 1 3/16". The front bend is correct at 45degrees.
As I mentioned before my shield could very well be a repo since it didn't come with the tractor. (I picked it up from a member long time ago, and I know he repo'd other items so I'm guessing it is). If I pull my engine and remove the gernade gears I'll have to remove the heat shield, and that's when I'd send it out for copying - just don't know when/if I'll be pulling it. I actually like the way it runs and sounds now. Maybe there is another 169 owner that wouldn't mind removing his shield and sending it for copying.
Hope the additional dimensions help and work out for your fabrication. Let me know if you want me to re-check something.
 
Started un-doing the PO fixes on the 149. Removed the rockshaft and other fixings using a sawall. Took three cuts and some hits with a bfh to remove, see picture. Two of the pins were replaced with bolt and nut. I was able to procure good used parts from the help wanted section.

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