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Archive through August 17, 2019

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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digger

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16,319
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Park Rapids Mn.
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Digger
I think I'm gonna have to stay off the internet!
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I like the orange one the best. Someone spent a lot of time on those wheels.

What the heck is holding up the front of the whats-it?
There is more weight in front of the rear wheels than in the back.
 
Where exactly will I find info and pictures for converting to a narrow front end? Also rear fenders and what rear tire size? I've seen them before and don't know where it was. Thanks
 
Update on my 1650 missing and quitting in hot weather. Really weird what went on.

My brother has been using the 1650 for about a year now. It was acting up on an 80 degree day and quit. He raised the hood and noticed the lock washer was showing the bolt was loose for the condenser clamp that threads into the aluminum head. He decided to take a break and eat lunch so it would cool down before he tightened the bolt. When he got back he found the lock washer was showing the bolt was tight. He put the wrench on and tightened it but it was tight. So he went back to cut the grass until it quit again. Lock washer was showing the bolt was loose. Left it sit and came back later, lock washer was showing tight. He gave me a call and I ran over there. Removed the bolt and could see the threads looked ok not very healthy but not stripped. Reinstalled the bolt and tightened it. We ran it again and found it quit and the lock washer was loose. Purchased a heli-coil, proper drill bit and tap, made an insertion tool and installed the heli-coil. Hasn't quit since!
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Great catch Jim.. Heat related problems can drive you buggy ( like valves with zero clearance when cold...)
 
Dennis, look here to see how I made my front end and the size wheels I used.
 
I know that 100s front wheels had sealed bearings but in the early years of production did they have grease fittings?
 
Timothy,

The only grease fittings are in the axle where the wheel spindles go, and there may be one at the axle pivot pin (but not always).

As for the wheels; just put plenty of grease in the hub after you put the bearings in and you will be fine for years to come.
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An update on my quietline oil plug leaking issue from Sunday August 11th. I tried the tapered pipe plug per Digger and Matt's suggestion and to be honest it now leaks worse!!! I'm thinking I have a hairline crack in the pan along the threads? There is no reason a standard aluminum quietline oil pan plug with fiber washer/gasket should not have sealed it. Good news is a have a pan ready to go, the bad news is......well having to wrench on the tractor is cub time right?
 
Rob - Checking for hairline cracks? - we've used Dr. Scholl's spray foot powder to track those types of leaks. Just clean the area with carb or brake cleaner, let it dry, then spray a light coating of foot powder over the whole area and wait for the leak to start..
 
David S.....The current pan that leaks on my quietline is a deep sump cast iron pan that leaks!
 
Ok boys and girls.
Here's what your supposed to do if your PTO button wears out!

"Make one out of a piece of broom stick or 3/4” dowel and a 1/4” dowel for locator pin. Add grease and install with some silicone to keep it stuck to the arm. I’ve made and used these for 30+ years now. They work better than original buttons."
 
Charlie, where's that quote from regarding the PTO button?
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