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Archive through August 15, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Tiller mounting studs -

Mine were longer because at the time I had a rear weight box - in the one picture you can clearly see the pipe spacers. I had to take into account the spacers and the nut, then the weight box w/its internal bracing and a lockwasher/nut inside of that.

After plowing at Little G last year, I've decided that maybe the studs weren't the best idea and I've since gone back to bolts. I like the idea of the lower bracket mounting nice 'n' tight up against the trans...
 
The 1659 lives. I changed the key switch tonight, checked for spark and engagement of the PTO, turned the key and it started right up. How about that? It may come as a surprise to some of you in-the-know regarding the K341s, but it still wants to shake a bit. I got a harmonic about 2240 rpm that sent the headlights a-flappin'. Looked like a strobe light on the siding. I'll need to work on that....

Thanks to all for their $.02 on the electrical issue.
Keith
 
Keith E. -

I feel your pain - I think the same vibration is responsible for busting a series of left headlights on my 169.
 
Hi Bryan!

Well, I can understand the shake eating headlamps, but just the LEFT one? it should shake 'em both loose.

It's not unusual to see a machine burn out one bulb much more often than others... my '82 F*%d pickup smoked about five before I figured it out. My students see it all the time with ditch-lights on trains. The reason why just one will burn out is typically a condition where insufficient voltage or excessive heating exists at the terminals of that particular bulb... typically a bad connection at the terminals of the bulb. The heat from the poor connection percolates up the filament support, and prevents the filament from cooling properly.

In case of ditch lights, the current-limiting resistor is starts to drift. Typically, the train will have 12, 24, or 48v lights, and runs on a 24, 37.5, or 72v battery, so they use big wirewound resistors to limit current through the lower-voltage bulb.

I'd check the wiring and connections to that particular bulb... I'll bet they start burning out on a more even basis...
 
Dave K. -

Didn't say burned, I said busted. As in cracked.
 
Bryan: Thanks clarifying for Dave K. It makes me tingle when you're so subtle... ;o)

I'm thinking about taking the headlights back out of it. I put them in on a QL perforated grille screen to aid air flow. It's just not robust enough to handle the shake so I'm not sure it's worth it to keep 'em in.

And, I'm pleased to report, the shake isn't nearly as bad as it was when the K341 was solid-mounted in the 129 frame. I put this one in QL frame on a cross-braced subframe with a new set of iso-mount hoob-a-joobs. I'll get a little time back on the engine and open it up and see what I've got.

Ryan Mull:
Chill out with some Mon-go-rian Beef @ the Chinese place in Wabash. It'll make you laugh.

later,
Keith
 
I'm still thinking that a K321 built with a K361 cam would be a much better engine than the K341 is. I think that'll be my next project.
 
Dave K II & all. I read an article in a magazine couple yrs ago about the '97 to '03 F-150 Fords that when they were running the prototypes at the Phoenix test track every truck came in with the same headlight burned out after only a couple hours. They traced the problem to the molded plastic grill support. The bracing made the harmonic frequency of the support the same as the frequency of the headlight filament and amplified the vibration beyond what the filament could withstand. They removed some gussets from the support and made it weaker so it resonated at a different frequency. Must have worked.... How many "One-Eyed" '97 to '03 F-150's do You see? GM must not have figured the problem out because 75% of them I see ARE One-eyed! On a Kohler Powered Cub Cadet vibration is a given. I guess the solution is to rubber mount everything You can. I know I sure miss the "Tingling Sensation" running the 982 I get when I mow with the 129. (NOT)
 
Busted as in cracked, huh? That's interesting... not a whole lot of mechanical difference between the loads applied to left and right lights.

Okay, I got it...

Find two 'right' lights, and replace the 'lefts' (which keep crackin') with two 'rights'!!!

Who's got a good 'right' light for Bryan? 'Lefts' need not apply! :-}
 
I don't know which show I an going to this weekend. I found 2 IH feature shows. The one Mike Tomey listed or this closer to me in NE OH.
20995.jpg

20994.jpg
 
Howdy folks. I'm a new guy, and a proud owner of a '70, 126. Can anyone tell me where the violet colored wire goes on the voltage regulator? The system stopped charging, and I think this may have something to do with it.
 
I couldn't get the Warren, Ohio show to size and be readable.
It is the Trumball County Steam show at OH RT. 5 & bypass 82 in Warren OH. contact Jim Ron 440-293-5617
 
Jeff,
The violet wire is usually the one that supplies power to the headlamps.
 
About the vibration issue, anybody got any ideas about motor mounts on a 149 to dampen the vibration. Mine may be the only one with the engine mounted directly to the frame.
This may have already been discussed and I missed it.
Bill
 
Gov:
How often do you REALLY use those lights? Just take 'em off. . . .
thumbsup_old.gif
 
Ray, I'd say he uses them every time he clears snow with it.
20997.jpg
 
Bill,

At the risk of being blunt.....

all of the xx8/9 tractors (and older) are solid mounted, and YES they ALL shake.

7's,8's,10's, and 12's are fairly mild...14's start to get a little rough, 16's can be wicked.

BUT, 14's and 16's pull like mules!!!!!
 
Thanks Kenny,
It was off when I got the 126, and hasn't charged since I've owned it. I'll trouble shoot from the info I got from the FAQ. I can charge the bat. and it will start and run for 4 to 5 mowings of 2+ acres, so I haven't worried about it much.
 
Keith E. -

You must tingle a lot then
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Kraig -

Thanks for the save, but now I can't say anything derogatory to Ray about slant grilles w/o dissing you...
lol.gif
 

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