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Archive through August 15, 2004

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Had a great time on Saturday at the Sycamore show. I pulled the heck out of Mike's 14 hp original. I think more people were interested in the one cub pulling the plow than the steam engine pulling 5 of 8 bottoms.
Also met Tom Hoffman's brother while plowing. Mike and I couldn't get him to hook a plow to his 102, maybe next year.
A sidenote in 2 years it will be the 50 year anniversary of the Syamore show. They would like 50 steam engines. I though maybe 50 cubs on one of those days.
 
Can someone help me identify this Cub Cadet? My friend recently purchesed a Cub cadet at a yard sale and it had no decals on it and the serial # was damaged so it's not all readable. I do have a partial serial#2050041U3????085. The engine is a Kohler K321A, ser# 2246694 and spec#6099A. The tractor has an electric lift and disc brakes on the rear and is also hydrostatic. Can anyone tell me what model Cub Cadet this is and for sure what year it was built? We have painted and gone through the tractor and would like to get the right decals for it. Also what kind of a reputation did these tractors have? Is the hydrostatic transmission a good one? This is our first Cub Cadet and this is my first time on this site. Thanks for any reply!
 
James R. It could be anything from May of 1969 to August of 1971. Which would encompass the models 1x7 and the 1x9. Since you said it has the K321, which is a 14hp Kohler, assuming that it is the original engine, would make it either a 147, or a 149. Since you said it has electric lift, I would guess and say that it is a 147. Does it look like this one (owned by E. Quinn)
<font size="+2">147</font>
20987.jpg


Or this one?
<font size="+2">149</font>
20988.jpg


IH Cub Cadets have an excellent reputation and the hydrostatic drives are very popular to some of the people here. Although, be careful with what you say about hydros or gear drives, it could start another bash session....

(Message edited by jrichardson on August 16, 2004)
 
James-
Although Jeff types too fast for me, he's right about the vintage, but the "kind-code" shows it to be a 147 like he posted in the top photo.

It's what we commonly refer to as a "narrow frame" tractor and does a great job at any task you throw at it.
 
James R. BTW, if you are looking for decals just scroll to the top of this page and click on one of the sponsors...
 
Jeff Said:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

I would guess and say that it is a 147<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Art Said:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

but the "kind-code" shows it to be a 147<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

I might be slow, but at least I'm ACCURATE!!!
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Mike L,
When I stole the stud idea, I used the grade 8 studs with the course threads to match the rear end casting and fine threads on the outer portion. On the lower five studs, I used a longer fine thread length than the top two. I think it was 2" and 1 1/2".
On the bottom five, where the tiller mount attaches, I used washers and the thin jam nuts to fasten the cover in place, then put on either the lower 3-point bracket or the tiller mount over the jam nuts, and fasten with regular nuts and washers. No dripping ooze from the cover when changing attachments.
This does set things back a little farther than the designed mount distance. The jam nuts are thin enough that the tiller mount and pulley distance from the mule drive could be compensated for by adjusting the non-sprung (left) mule drive pulley so that the sprung (right) pulley just barely clears the front axle. I have been able to maintain good belt tension this way.
If I ran the tiller or used anything on the 3-point that put a lot of stress on the mounts for a long time, I might have a problem with deflection, since they now do not mount flat against the rearend cover, but I haven't noticed it with my limited uses. I don't have enough experience with plowing to know if the added distance away from the cover creates a problem that can't be compensated for with the Brinly adapter or the plow adjustments themselves.
 
Thanks guys for the help identifying my Cub Cadet. Looking at the pictures you provided, it's definately a 147. The electric lift was taken off the tractor by my friend when he got it as he said it was not working from sitting too long, are they hard to replace? I am buying the tractor from him and will just use it for pulling a small trailer on a horse ranch. But someday I may want to put a mower on it if I could get the lift fixed. As I said, this is my first Cub Cadet and I'm just learning about all this stuff. I will get the deacls from one of your sponsors. Thanks again for your patience and help!! Jim R
 
Richard, you're a very nice grandfather!!!! <font size="-2">Hmmmm, I was 8 years old when my parents bought the 125........</font> :eek:)
 
Can anyone tell me the correct part # for a 20+ K321 piston ? Thanks a bunch
 
What am I doing wrong??

Putting Spot away last night I noticed that there are sparks shooting out of the muffler when it "putts". What the heck is that??
 
anybody else going to the show in stockton NY this weekend, thinking of taking my original, not fully restored, but shes a working gal, just finished mowing the yard. ditched the original muffler and put a stack on her with a weather cap, much more throaty exhaust. I kept the original muffler in case I want to switch it back to the original setup. I finaly got a lead on a snowthrower for the cub to. Cheers Mike
 
Ted if the muffler is rusting out internaly, the rust particles will come out as a spark as they usualy are incrusted with carbon as well. At full throttle your eyes just cant see them, but at putt putt speed you can. Had this happen on a 149 I once had, replaced the muffler with a stack and no more sparks. You would have loved the roman candles I used to get from the stack of the old allis WD45 when I used to brush hog the unused fields. Grass was as high as the hood! Cheers Mike
 
TEDD - Like Mike I used to see sparks occasionally shoot out the mufflers of tractors. For use in very combustible environments IH offered Spark Arrestors for all their equipment and tractors. Tractors used under mounted corn pickers and on self-powered combines all had them. Nothing to be worried about unless there's LOADS of them..... Then You may want to consult a Sponsor about engine rebuilt components.
 
OK so sparks are not all bad. Whew I have never been able to get that poor engine to run right. I'm thinking that it may be just that it don't want to live with out a load to pull on. When I have the deck going or the plow in the ground the engine is happy, but no load and it is putt putt spit, cough.
 
I am looking for a wiring harness for a 1450. I haven't seen them anywhere. Can someone point me in the right direction....

Thanks
 
James:
Click on one of the sponsors directly above this missive.
 

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