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Archive through August 03, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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jmacdonald

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2006
Messages
228
Location
Western Maine
displayname
James MacDonald
Thanks everybody so far so good. Getting there!!
Taking the breather cap off gave me just enough room to pull the rearend back. I now have the shifter assebmbly off and can see from ther bottom that the cup is broken free. Trying to understand how to take this apart. My shift lever has what looks like a spring on top of part #3 held by part #2. Not sure of the reason for the spring other than to keep tension on part 3.
Anyway the spring doesn't seem to be doing anything.

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I saw a post with a c-clamp on the bottom, but still not sure how to pull the beast apart.
I would like to repair this if I can just to keep as much of the tractor original parts.
If I can't I try one of the sponsers.

P.S. Later I start another post with a picture as it seems to my eye that a space where the shifter moves the gears (shifter fork?) looks bent open on one side.
 
I have ordered a new set of rubber mtg for my 1250 from one of our sponsers,but I still wonder if anyone has tried to solid mount a Quiet Line.
Dan
 
Jimmy Mac,
Understand that the #3 assmly. is coming though the bottom side of #'s 4-5-6-7-8and 19 and then #2 pins it all together. All that stuff keeps the "cup" on #3 tight to the underside of #8. WTH did I just say????
 
So if I understsnd it corectly I need to somehow slide down that spring I have between pin #2 and part #3. remove pin 2. Once pin #2 is out does the shifter rod slide out throught the bottom?

I guess that's why I see in another post a C clamp used to remove the pressed in bottom. To allow everything to slide out after doing above?
Some corosion on the bottom of mine guess I soak it overnight in the PB blaster then try the C clamp method.
 
Dan M - good question I'd like to hear addressed. Never tried to solid mount a QL engine. Remember discussions in the early days of this Forum, that the drive shaft alignment would be off, but I'm not sure if it would be high or low. That would be the primary issue, and then there would be the issue of the PTO belt probably being to long if the engine was lowered, or to short if the engine is raised up. Hopefully there will be someone on here that has tried it, or knows specifics of the alignment to address it. Seems to me the xx8/9 frame is basically the same but IH must have changed something in the area of the engine mount or ISO-mounts.
 
Daniel C - you can solid mount a QL tractor, but you defeat the purpose of the isolators - reduced vibration to the operator. I think you will find if you do a cradle mod (see FAQ's) and new isolators, you will have a lasting fix - not unlike solid mounts.

BTW - I would recommend the super steer upgrade while your engine is out and check your front axle for forward to aft play.
 
Daniel M,

I will be interested to know of your results in installing new ISO mounts in your 1250.

I recently did the engine cradle upgrade and installed new ISO mounts in my 1250. Harry and many others here were extremely helpful with tips and procedure support. I wish you all the best.
 
Hydro, I initially read your 7:08PM post as: "Damn - good question..."
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I thought to myself: That doesn't sound like something Hydro would write! I'm glad I re-read it.
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Anyone have a part number for the AQS oil tube block off plate? I searched the partfinder and came up with ziltch. I need one and it may just come down to bandsawing one out. Wish I could find the one I took off, even though it was pretty crude.
 
Billy D.: The H10C is the right plug but (and not to start a
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, here) the Autolite 216 has a pretty good reputation around here, too.

Kraig: I picked up the mail one day and Jeanne had a letter from the Woodchuck (huh?) oh, Worldwide Church of Christ. Good thing speed reading has a reverse!
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I am working on my dad's snow plow. (782 tractor) All the holes are worn at all the pivot and locking points. I have welded them up and redrilled everything taking all the play out of things. I am a little confused about the pivot bolt though where the blade angles and would like to know if anyone has an exploded view of that area on the snow plow.
 
Has anyone ever welded the pivot pin solid? The one I am working on appears to just have a spot of weld that stops the pin from dropping out but still allows the pin to turn as well as the blade
 
The pullers use solid mounts on a Quietline mount.I made a set for a 1650 I had the vibration was bad hurt to drive it.Went back to the new style mounts with the cradle upgrade.
 
Kraig - Oh Great One - Keeper of the Photos. Thanks for noticing that. You're right (as usual). I generally would not write that, but I might be caught verbalizing it.

Charlie - I don't see any oil fill block off plates on Kirk's web site.

Michael M - I guess I don't understand why an AQS engine would vibrate anymore than a non-AQS when solid mounted to the frame with steel ISO-mounts. Am I missing something? I also thought the AQS could just be bolted directly to the frame, but the drive shaft would be mis-aligned. I would have thought someone may have tried this and figured out how to align it with spacers under the oil pan or something. There must be a way. Hope someone has tried, knows of it, etc., and will advise on here.
 
Greetings all, just introducing myself on the site. Running a 73 (moldboarder) and a 105 (lawn and snow). Having an issue with the 73 governor sticking, read an earlier post and MMO was mentioned. Curious to hear of any other simple remedies or if I should ready my shop for a tear down.
 
Thanks Frank, looks like its back to the carburetor...... might be time to look for a new one
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. Talk at you later. Bill.
 
Joe G, Welcome
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With the engine off can you grab the govenor arm and see if you can tell wheather it's the carb or internal thats sticking?
 
Harry
The 1x9s have a steel plate welded between the frame rails and cross member that the QLs don't have. That just about dictates that you use the iso-mount rails whatever you do.
 
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