• FIRST AND LAST NAMES ARE REQUIRED WHEN REGISTERING

Archive through August 03, 2012

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

jmacdonald

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2006
Messages
221
Location
Western Maine
displayname
James MacDonald
Thanks everybody so far so good. Getting there!!
Taking the breather cap off gave me just enough room to pull the rearend back. I now have the shifter assebmbly off and can see from ther bottom that the cup is broken free. Trying to understand how to take this apart. My shift lever has what looks like a spring on top of part #3 held by part #2. Not sure of the reason for the spring other than to keep tension on part 3.
Anyway the spring doesn't seem to be doing anything.

242618.jpg

I saw a post with a c-clamp on the bottom, but still not sure how to pull the beast apart.
I would like to repair this if I can just to keep as much of the tractor original parts.
If I can't I try one of the sponsers.

P.S. Later I start another post with a picture as it seems to my eye that a space where the shifter moves the gears (shifter fork?) looks bent open on one side.
 

dcmay

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2007
Messages
120
displayname
Dan May
I have ordered a new set of rubber mtg for my 1250 from one of our sponsers,but I still wonder if anyone has tried to solid mount a Quiet Line.
Dan
 

thoffman

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
3,611
displayname
Tom Hoffman
Jimmy Mac,
Understand that the #3 assmly. is coming though the bottom side of #'s 4-5-6-7-8and 19 and then #2 pins it all together. All that stuff keeps the "cup" on #3 tight to the underside of #8. WTH did I just say????
 

jmacdonald

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2006
Messages
221
Location
Western Maine
displayname
James MacDonald
So if I understsnd it corectly I need to somehow slide down that spring I have between pin #2 and part #3. remove pin 2. Once pin #2 is out does the shifter rod slide out throught the bottom?

I guess that's why I see in another post a C clamp used to remove the pressed in bottom. To allow everything to slide out after doing above?
Some corosion on the bottom of mine guess I soak it overnight in the PB blaster then try the C clamp method.
 

hydroharry

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
4,202
displayname
Harry Bursell
Dan M - good question I'd like to hear addressed. Never tried to solid mount a QL engine. Remember discussions in the early days of this Forum, that the drive shaft alignment would be off, but I'm not sure if it would be high or low. That would be the primary issue, and then there would be the issue of the PTO belt probably being to long if the engine was lowered, or to short if the engine is raised up. Hopefully there will be someone on here that has tried it, or knows specifics of the alignment to address it. Seems to me the xx8/9 frame is basically the same but IH must have changed something in the area of the engine mount or ISO-mounts.
 

bjamison

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2005
Messages
816
displayname
Binder 1650
Daniel C - you can solid mount a QL tractor, but you defeat the purpose of the isolators - reduced vibration to the operator. I think you will find if you do a cradle mod (see FAQ's) and new isolators, you will have a lasting fix - not unlike solid mounts.

BTW - I would recommend the super steer upgrade while your engine is out and check your front axle for forward to aft play.
 

bwittman

Banned
Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
313
displayname
Brian Wittman
Daniel M,

I will be interested to know of your results in installing new ISO mounts in your 1250.

I recently did the engine cradle upgrade and installed new ISO mounts in my 1250. Harry and many others here were extremely helpful with tips and procedure support. I wish you all the best.
 

kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
18,119
Location
Wisconsin
displayname
Kraig McConaughey
Hydro, I initially read your 7:08PM post as: "Damn - good question..."
icon_eek.gif
I thought to myself: That doesn't sound like something Hydro would write! I'm glad I re-read it.
blush.gif
facepalm.gif
 

mgreene

New member
Joined
May 22, 2011
Messages
4
displayname
Matt Greene
Anyone have a part number for the AQS oil tube block off plate? I searched the partfinder and came up with ziltch. I need one and it may just come down to bandsawing one out. Wish I could find the one I took off, even though it was pretty crude.
 

fcurrier

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 5, 2004
Messages
3,143
displayname
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Billy D.: The H10C is the right plug but (and not to start a
fence.gif
, here) the Autolite 216 has a pretty good reputation around here, too.

Kraig: I picked up the mail one day and Jeanne had a letter from the Woodchuck (huh?) oh, Worldwide Church of Christ. Good thing speed reading has a reverse!
happy.gif
 

drohacek

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 15, 2006
Messages
76
displayname
David Rohacek
I am working on my dad's snow plow. (782 tractor) All the holes are worn at all the pivot and locking points. I have welded them up and redrilled everything taking all the play out of things. I am a little confused about the pivot bolt though where the blade angles and would like to know if anyone has an exploded view of that area on the snow plow.
 

drohacek

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 15, 2006
Messages
76
displayname
David Rohacek
Has anyone ever welded the pivot pin solid? The one I am working on appears to just have a spot of weld that stops the pin from dropping out but still allows the pin to turn as well as the blade
 

mmasheris

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
713
displayname
Michael A.Masheris
The pullers use solid mounts on a Quietline mount.I made a set for a 1650 I had the vibration was bad hurt to drive it.Went back to the new style mounts with the cradle upgrade.
 

hydroharry

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
4,202
displayname
Harry Bursell
Kraig - Oh Great One - Keeper of the Photos. Thanks for noticing that. You're right (as usual). I generally would not write that, but I might be caught verbalizing it.

Charlie - I don't see any oil fill block off plates on Kirk's web site.

Michael M - I guess I don't understand why an AQS engine would vibrate anymore than a non-AQS when solid mounted to the frame with steel ISO-mounts. Am I missing something? I also thought the AQS could just be bolted directly to the frame, but the drive shaft would be mis-aligned. I would have thought someone may have tried this and figured out how to align it with spacers under the oil pan or something. There must be a way. Hope someone has tried, knows of it, etc., and will advise on here.
 

jgrabner

New member
Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
4
displayname
Joe Grabner
Greetings all, just introducing myself on the site. Running a 73 (moldboarder) and a 105 (lawn and snow). Having an issue with the 73 governor sticking, read an earlier post and MMO was mentioned. Curious to hear of any other simple remedies or if I should ready my shop for a tear down.
 

wsdrake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2012
Messages
139
Location
Newton, WV
displayname
Billy Drake
Thanks Frank, looks like its back to the carburetor...... might be time to look for a new one
bash.gif
. Talk at you later. Bill.
 

dross

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2006
Messages
1,513
displayname
Dave Ross
Joe G, Welcome
groupwave.gif
With the engine off can you grab the govenor arm and see if you can tell wheather it's the carb or internal thats sticking?
 

jharvey

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2003
Messages
361
displayname
Jerry Harvey "Nines are wild"
Harry
The 1x9s have a steel plate welded between the frame rails and cross member that the QLs don't have. That just about dictates that you use the iso-mount rails whatever you do.
 
Top