R
rmull
Guest
ooh-ooh-ooh...wrong forum..
I am bored. Sorry.
I am bored. Sorry.
-
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kraig, do you have a diagram of a 102 rear end with the internal brake? I just picked one up the other day and the brake is still holding to where it is hard to roll around. I have loosened the lever and adjusting bolt, and the pin that goes through the case. Any suggestions?
Thanks Mark
Thanks Mark
Mark, perhaps the piston that presses on the brake puck is siezed.
Ryan, how many times have you watched the plow day videos?
rchristensen
Well-known member
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- Aug 12, 2006
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- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Mower deck leveling, an art in itself. I've only done one 38 inch and it was pretty easy, probably due to the strength of the deck skin. I've done a bunch of 44a decks and they are pretty easy if you get them started right and once done they stay good, unless you really abuse them.
Now the 50a and 50c decks are another story, I believe as built they will not stand up to normal use and stay true. To get them right and to make them stay true I believe you need to add some modifications, including front gauge wheels, extra support for the right rear wheel and some other modifications to strengthen them. In my spare time I have been modifying one and it has been a challenge. I have used all of the tricks I've picked up here and invented a few myself. I hope to finish it soon and will post the pictures then.
In answer to the question about the difference in lift heights for the 149 and the 782, I have never checked the actual lift height but the 782 never looks like it lifts as high even when everything is correct. It may be due to the different mower lift frames. The hydraulic ram on a 782 has a shorter movement so it is connected to the lift mechanism different than a Quietline or wide frame and many have the lift arm bent like this.
Now the 50a and 50c decks are another story, I believe as built they will not stand up to normal use and stay true. To get them right and to make them stay true I believe you need to add some modifications, including front gauge wheels, extra support for the right rear wheel and some other modifications to strengthen them. In my spare time I have been modifying one and it has been a challenge. I have used all of the tricks I've picked up here and invented a few myself. I hope to finish it soon and will post the pictures then.
In answer to the question about the difference in lift heights for the 149 and the 782, I have never checked the actual lift height but the 782 never looks like it lifts as high even when everything is correct. It may be due to the different mower lift frames. The hydraulic ram on a 782 has a shorter movement so it is connected to the lift mechanism different than a Quietline or wide frame and many have the lift arm bent like this.
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
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- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Richard C. -
Those who have been here a long time have seen the pic of my 1450 lifting my QA42A and seeing it kind a droop to one side, barely getting more than a couple inches off the ground.
A few capsules of Levitra in the Hy-Tran fixed it right up
Seriously...
Then I got the 169 and I noticed how it picked the thrower up nice and straight and about 4-5" off the ground!
So I started looking - turns out the spirol on the lift arm was broken into 3 pieces. With Tom H's help, we replaced it and all was well.
Guess that's just a long winded way of saying to check all the spirols on the rockshaft, too.
Those who have been here a long time have seen the pic of my 1450 lifting my QA42A and seeing it kind a droop to one side, barely getting more than a couple inches off the ground.
A few capsules of Levitra in the Hy-Tran fixed it right up
Seriously...
Then I got the 169 and I noticed how it picked the thrower up nice and straight and about 4-5" off the ground!
So I started looking - turns out the spirol on the lift arm was broken into 3 pieces. With Tom H's help, we replaced it and all was well.
Guess that's just a long winded way of saying to check all the spirols on the rockshaft, too.
And for those that have not seen it......
P
psauer
Guest
I'm a new Cub fan desparate for a wiring diagram for a modle # 72. I got it at an auction with the wiring harness cut up in a box. Thanks! Paul
Paul,
Paul, here's more.
jhangartner
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- Sep 26, 2006
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- 119
- displayname
- Jason W Hangartner
I was wondering what is a fair price to get a K-341 rebuilt. I am aware that it may/maynot need several things done to it however I am just looking for a ballpark figure so I don't get taken to the cleaners. I called one local guy today and he quoted me $700!!
Also what would be a good fix for the drivehsaft roll pin that is in the coupler that is on the shaft going into the hydro, not the drivehsaft itself. Mine is a little loose and I don't want to put this thing together and have it break.
One more thing. I pulled the motor out of my 1650 to repair the engine mounts. I found out that the brackets are in bad shape. The bottom rubbers are all missing and have been for some time as the holes for the rubber donuts in the engine mounting brackets are all wallered out. So I need some new brackets that I can add the reinforcement modification to. Is there an upgrade to the rubber mounting system? Or is it best just to get all new original rubbers/collars etc.....?
Thanks
Also what would be a good fix for the drivehsaft roll pin that is in the coupler that is on the shaft going into the hydro, not the drivehsaft itself. Mine is a little loose and I don't want to put this thing together and have it break.
One more thing. I pulled the motor out of my 1650 to repair the engine mounts. I found out that the brackets are in bad shape. The bottom rubbers are all missing and have been for some time as the holes for the rubber donuts in the engine mounting brackets are all wallered out. So I need some new brackets that I can add the reinforcement modification to. Is there an upgrade to the rubber mounting system? Or is it best just to get all new original rubbers/collars etc.....?
Thanks
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
Kraig
Good point, and replace those spirol pins with the correct pin too. I fought a 129 that lifted uneven, found the previous owner had used everything but the correct pin, it had a broken off allen wrench in it when I got it and the hole was worn oblong. Had to get a new rockshaft, and anybody who has replaced one on an old tractor with some rust and some additional paint through the years knows what a PITA that is.
Steve B.
I used to mow my grass throwing the discarge on mowed area and then picked it up and fed it to the neighbors horses. Horses gone now so I mow with the discharge into the unmowed area so it mulches the grass up more and then I don't have to get rid of it. Mowing like that in heavy grass I agree with you, the discharge baffel on a 44a or 50 inch deck is just shipping hardware and should be removed and discarded. Removed mine and it works much better, thanks for the suggestion.
Good point, and replace those spirol pins with the correct pin too. I fought a 129 that lifted uneven, found the previous owner had used everything but the correct pin, it had a broken off allen wrench in it when I got it and the hole was worn oblong. Had to get a new rockshaft, and anybody who has replaced one on an old tractor with some rust and some additional paint through the years knows what a PITA that is.
Steve B.
I used to mow my grass throwing the discarge on mowed area and then picked it up and fed it to the neighbors horses. Horses gone now so I mow with the discharge into the unmowed area so it mulches the grass up more and then I don't have to get rid of it. Mowing like that in heavy grass I agree with you, the discharge baffel on a 44a or 50 inch deck is just shipping hardware and should be removed and discarded. Removed mine and it works much better, thanks for the suggestion.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Mark W.-
If you drive that tractor around a bit the brake may free up.
If you drive that tractor around a bit the brake may free up.
Richard, actually that was Bryan's point.....
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
I stand corrected, Bryan had a good point on the rockshaft spirol pins, must have got confused when Kraig posted the picture. I should have known better, Kraig doesn't have one of those fancy 1450's, he prefers the slant grills...
Richard, yep I much prefer the narrow frame slant grills. I do have a point but a hat will cover it......
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Kraig any suggestions on installing a new pin? I imagine that a replacement would simply work its way out quickly. I don't know if new couplings are available, but I think I saw replacement shafts on one of the sponsors pages. Not being a machinist could the coupler be welded and drilled out?
Jason-
$135 Rebuild Kit (I think it's twice that for a KOHLER kit)
$20 Valve Guides
$100 machine work (reaming guides, cutting valve seats, boring block, cutting crank, decking block)
$25 de-grease block & clean head
$50 crankshaft bearings (and that's not even Kohler's price)
$10 carb kit
$30 starter rebuild parts
$50 new balance gears & needle bearings
plus stuff like a new plug & points
It'll all probably come out to about $450 in parts for a good, complete rebuild. If it's a place there in Cedar Rapids that has a $30 shop rate I'd say it's a little high, but not terribly out of line . . . . . assuming he's going to do as complete of a job as I listed parts for.
$135 Rebuild Kit (I think it's twice that for a KOHLER kit)
$20 Valve Guides
$100 machine work (reaming guides, cutting valve seats, boring block, cutting crank, decking block)
$25 de-grease block & clean head
$50 crankshaft bearings (and that's not even Kohler's price)
$10 carb kit
$30 starter rebuild parts
$50 new balance gears & needle bearings
plus stuff like a new plug & points
It'll all probably come out to about $450 in parts for a good, complete rebuild. If it's a place there in Cedar Rapids that has a $30 shop rate I'd say it's a little high, but not terribly out of line . . . . . assuming he's going to do as complete of a job as I listed parts for.
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