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Archive through April 29, 2014
- Thread starter mmasheris
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
- Joined
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- Binder 1650
Marlin H - thanks for the info on the Sunstrands pumps, very interesting stuff!
Harry B - my 1650 w/14 hp engine is a quick starter, but not YET on par with the 12 hp engine in the 126. I want to revisit it with the timing light like I did on the 126. I also think that having the fuel tank above the engine is an advantage in that the carb has a nice head do fuel waiting and ready vs a rear fender mounted fuel tank and a fuel pump.
Dennis F said, "Lets put things this way, if somebody wants to pull a plow or sub-soiler in his garden, a CC stands a better chance of doing it than ANY other garden tractor with the possible exception of an Economy Power King. "
ANY???? Interesting OPINION - LOL
Harry B - my 1650 w/14 hp engine is a quick starter, but not YET on par with the 12 hp engine in the 126. I want to revisit it with the timing light like I did on the 126. I also think that having the fuel tank above the engine is an advantage in that the carb has a nice head do fuel waiting and ready vs a rear fender mounted fuel tank and a fuel pump.
Dennis F said, "Lets put things this way, if somebody wants to pull a plow or sub-soiler in his garden, a CC stands a better chance of doing it than ANY other garden tractor with the possible exception of an Economy Power King. "
ANY???? Interesting OPINION - LOL
bellwood
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- Jul 29, 2007
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- Brian Ellwood
Hey hey! (for all you Krusty the Klown fans)
Did a second pass on the fuel system tonight...
I pulled the needles on the carb too and sprayed them out well... There was a little dirt above the float needle seat, but nothing like before... I was NOT able to back out the seat in the needle tower and didnt want to force it
I have to say, I'm really disappointed with the bowl gasket that came with my carb rebuild kit from cubcadet.com... It had already stretched out quite a bit and wasnt really providing much of a seal... Luckily I found a new one at camp over the weekend so I used that and made sure the bowl was centered and everything was snug before putting it back on...
I also cleaned the threads on the tank feeder so I was able to turn the sediment bowl another whole turn to really get it on there tight...
I also addressed my low idle issue but adjusting the spring position on the throttle as the low idle screw was already set as deep as the spring would allow...
The cub ran for about 15 minutes before I turned her off... Got a couple fireworks when she shut down but otherwise everything is thumbs up... Since I had to run her inside (its raining here) I didnt get a chance to engage the PTO to test the deck, hopefully by the end of the week...
I'm hoping to get the timing started/done tomorrow after work so I can check that off my list...
IDK I have a feeling I'll need to replace the sediment bowl and use a real inline filter to really get past this fuel issue if the bowl keeps allowing small stuff through
What do you all suggest as adequate replacement parts for the filter, fuel tube and fittings?
Thanks all =)
Did a second pass on the fuel system tonight...
I pulled the needles on the carb too and sprayed them out well... There was a little dirt above the float needle seat, but nothing like before... I was NOT able to back out the seat in the needle tower and didnt want to force it
I have to say, I'm really disappointed with the bowl gasket that came with my carb rebuild kit from cubcadet.com... It had already stretched out quite a bit and wasnt really providing much of a seal... Luckily I found a new one at camp over the weekend so I used that and made sure the bowl was centered and everything was snug before putting it back on...
I also cleaned the threads on the tank feeder so I was able to turn the sediment bowl another whole turn to really get it on there tight...
I also addressed my low idle issue but adjusting the spring position on the throttle as the low idle screw was already set as deep as the spring would allow...
The cub ran for about 15 minutes before I turned her off... Got a couple fireworks when she shut down but otherwise everything is thumbs up... Since I had to run her inside (its raining here) I didnt get a chance to engage the PTO to test the deck, hopefully by the end of the week...
I'm hoping to get the timing started/done tomorrow after work so I can check that off my list...
IDK I have a feeling I'll need to replace the sediment bowl and use a real inline filter to really get past this fuel issue if the bowl keeps allowing small stuff through
What do you all suggest as adequate replacement parts for the filter, fuel tube and fittings?
Thanks all =)
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- Harry Bursell
Bill J - the 1650 (14hp version) won't start "quite" as quick as the 126. That little integrated starter on the AQS engine doesn't spin the engine as fast as the S/G on the 126. Go ahead and re-visit your timing cause an AQS should still start quick, but just not as quick as the S/G versions.
Brian E - I'm sooooooooooooooo glad you didn't pry to hard on that jet. I've never been able to get them out - but had a friend add heat (yup really thought it would just melt away) but it did the trick. But that carb was packed full of sand from the tractor laying on it's side without an air cleaner (at a junk yard) and it you can believe it, it's now on my 169 and works perfect.
I don't really have a suggestion for you on an alternative to the strainer and glass fuel bowl. I like staying with the original design. I think a complete new assembly is about $15 last I checked, and you know it fits your current fuel line and gas tank.
I also hope the bowl on your carb doesn't leak again. As new as that gasket was it should'a fit back into the little ring. Sometimes ya really gotta work on it. Funny how a new one just lays in there right off the bat.
Brian E - I'm sooooooooooooooo glad you didn't pry to hard on that jet. I've never been able to get them out - but had a friend add heat (yup really thought it would just melt away) but it did the trick. But that carb was packed full of sand from the tractor laying on it's side without an air cleaner (at a junk yard) and it you can believe it, it's now on my 169 and works perfect.
I don't really have a suggestion for you on an alternative to the strainer and glass fuel bowl. I like staying with the original design. I think a complete new assembly is about $15 last I checked, and you know it fits your current fuel line and gas tank.
I also hope the bowl on your carb doesn't leak again. As new as that gasket was it should'a fit back into the little ring. Sometimes ya really gotta work on it. Funny how a new one just lays in there right off the bat.
My 1250 starts with a tap of the key even down to 10 degrees. After that it takes a couple more cranks. I have heard the AQS starter story before but never experienced it.
Brian Ellwood
just a thought , a little plumbers tape on the threads for the fuel shut off enables you to turn the tap in and not have to tighten it to much to get a good seal. I like the fuel tap on my 149 and have changed a few over to use it and rubber hose with a good filter. Never had any trouble with the ones that I have changed over . My Original and the few that still have the fuel bowls I strain all my gas to be safe.
just a thought , a little plumbers tape on the threads for the fuel shut off enables you to turn the tap in and not have to tighten it to much to get a good seal. I like the fuel tap on my 149 and have changed a few over to use it and rubber hose with a good filter. Never had any trouble with the ones that I have changed over . My Original and the few that still have the fuel bowls I strain all my gas to be safe.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Michael Ross: I'm still thinking subsoiler and it's all your fault! Did you notice that the shipping weight on the one you posted the link to a couple days ago is 110 pounds? From the pic, it sure doesn't look like it would weigh that much.
bellwood
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- Brian Ellwood
@Don: Yeah I'm not sure what I'm going to do... I was able to get the bowl on another turn so I don't need the plumbers tape...
I think if I end up going with another filtration setup, I'll probably get some braided fuel line and a 35 micron secondary filter from jegs
I think if I end up going with another filtration setup, I'll probably get some braided fuel line and a 35 micron secondary filter from jegs
Hi guys, haven't been on here in a while, been working on other things. Starting problem with my 1450. Hasn't been run much since I restored it and hasn't been started in a year & a half.This spring I got it out, new gas, new needle & seat, but won't fire at the plug. What to check?
Brain
I think that old saying a ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure . I found since I added better filters for my gas line than the screen and fuel bowl ; I don`t have to clean carbs every year on my Cubs . having so many Cubs really ends up taking a lot of seat time away . I would rather run them and work them than work at them.
I think that old saying a ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure . I found since I added better filters for my gas line than the screen and fuel bowl ; I don`t have to clean carbs every year on my Cubs . having so many Cubs really ends up taking a lot of seat time away . I would rather run them and work them than work at them.
Norm Bartee
Most time a no run will be the coil or condenser. But with your Cub siting for some time I would check the switch. pull the plug off it and clean it up and check your ground wires .I bet you can be running in twenty minutes . btdt
Most time a no run will be the coil or condenser. But with your Cub siting for some time I would check the switch. pull the plug off it and clean it up and check your ground wires .I bet you can be running in twenty minutes . btdt
bellwood
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- Brian Ellwood
Is there any way to test condensers to see if they are any good? I found a few up at camp over the weekend and want to see if they are worth keeping (read: if they ain't good I don't want em taking up space)
Thanks =)
Thanks =)
- Joined
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- Binder 1650
Don T said, "I don`t have to clean carbs every year on my Cubs . having so many Cubs really ends up taking a lot of seat time away . I would rather run them and work them than work at them."
Amen - brother!!!!!!! I'm starting to get a little weary of bringing my workers to worker status - but, I think once I get these tractors fully on their feet, I should have only yearly maintenance going forward and hopefully a few and far between failure.
I was motivated when my 126 didn't sell. It is a VERY good tractor, but the offers I got were low by low standards. I'm thinking - I know one puts $$$'s and time in these tractors and the likely hood you'd get anything closes to what you got in it is bleak, but the low ball offers were pretty lame. So the 126 stays for now and it's getting a nice going over. The low ballers can buy a piece of junk and sink their time and $$$'s in to it - LOL.
Norm B - Me thinks the condenser too.
Harry B - are you telling me that my fine modern, McCormick era old iron QL 1650 w/ gas miser 14 hp engine in it won't crank as quickly as my older iron 126?!?!?!!!!!!!! This is a disturbing finding as I thought the AQS has that state of the art/modern bendix starter vs that old S/G stuff and was an improvement as it ridded the IH from a belt and any charges that there was a belt present on the otherwise shaft driven tractor!
What I think is really going on here is IH decided to use the bendix starter vs the S/G to give the QL's a quieter start....
Heads-up..... IF the weather behaves, the moldboard plow might make an appearance this weekend...
Amen - brother!!!!!!! I'm starting to get a little weary of bringing my workers to worker status - but, I think once I get these tractors fully on their feet, I should have only yearly maintenance going forward and hopefully a few and far between failure.
I was motivated when my 126 didn't sell. It is a VERY good tractor, but the offers I got were low by low standards. I'm thinking - I know one puts $$$'s and time in these tractors and the likely hood you'd get anything closes to what you got in it is bleak, but the low ball offers were pretty lame. So the 126 stays for now and it's getting a nice going over. The low ballers can buy a piece of junk and sink their time and $$$'s in to it - LOL.
Norm B - Me thinks the condenser too.
Harry B - are you telling me that my fine modern, McCormick era old iron QL 1650 w/ gas miser 14 hp engine in it won't crank as quickly as my older iron 126?!?!?!!!!!!!! This is a disturbing finding as I thought the AQS has that state of the art/modern bendix starter vs that old S/G stuff and was an improvement as it ridded the IH from a belt and any charges that there was a belt present on the otherwise shaft driven tractor!
What I think is really going on here is IH decided to use the bendix starter vs the S/G to give the QL's a quieter start....
Heads-up..... IF the weather behaves, the moldboard plow might make an appearance this weekend...
Bill, I'm rather certain the bendix starter on my 1000, 1250, other 1250, 1650, and 1806 are louder than the SG on my 122. So that's one thing that is not quiet on the quietline series. Cranking the eninge faster or slower? I have no idea, I'm just happy they start...
"I'm still thinking subsoiler and it's all your fault!" Frank, sorry bout that!
I did see the ship weight and shipping for it is half the price again. I'm still thinking it also, I have a trailer for my 108 if I build an armature on back of it I might be able to attach the soiler and stabilize it. My current concern is do I have the hp to pull it without killing my tractor and just having the rear tires dig in? I looked at some youtube video's as was suggested. My little 108 is not in the league of those big boys. However I am pulling through NJ pine barrens soil, sand with some organic material and of course the %@#!& landscaping paper which started all this.
BRIAN E. - The OEM carb bowls are made from a soft aluminum alloy. When you tighten them up once the bottom deforms, pushes up. And may not press tightly enough into the sealing gasket to seal without leaking. I always carefully tap the bottom of the float bowl down flat again before re-installing the float bowl and never have leaks. It's NOT the gasket's fault.
The sediment bulb is a GREAT source of gas leaks too, does a miserable job of filtering gas also. I'd replace the thing with a shut-off valve, about $3-4 at the hardware store, plus a 1/8th inch NPT 90 degree hose barb in the carb inlet, a foot of 1/4" gas line, plus a filter like this, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9706/overview/
I've run that same filter on my CC's for 30 yrs and have had NO carb plugging issues. I used it on my OSSA motorcycle for a couple years before that.
The sediment bulb is a GREAT source of gas leaks too, does a miserable job of filtering gas also. I'd replace the thing with a shut-off valve, about $3-4 at the hardware store, plus a 1/8th inch NPT 90 degree hose barb in the carb inlet, a foot of 1/4" gas line, plus a filter like this, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-9706/overview/
I've run that same filter on my CC's for 30 yrs and have had NO carb plugging issues. I used it on my OSSA motorcycle for a couple years before that.
mfrade
Well-known member
Bill J. said "What I think is really going on here is IH decided to use the bendix starter vs the S/G to give the QL's a quieter start.... "
I'm of the opinion that the engine manufacturer said to the buyer, here's what you're getting for next year. Better make some changes in the wiring!
Carb Bowl Gasket, seems like once it's wet it grows and when you remove it and want to re-use it... it takes patience grasshopper!!! rofl...
I'm of the opinion that the engine manufacturer said to the buyer, here's what you're getting for next year. Better make some changes in the wiring!
Carb Bowl Gasket, seems like once it's wet it grows and when you remove it and want to re-use it... it takes patience grasshopper!!! rofl...
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