Archive through April 28, 2016

[sblunier]

Frank,

But there has to be load on the engine to make lots of heat......that tiller isn't loading the engine.....but your buddies mower certainly is.

More Load = more governor = more fuel = more heat.....

 

[balbrecht]

Frank,
A couple items to consider on your friends overheating issue. I'm guessing he may have a cast end deck. Although they cut very nice, the shape of the front of the deck results in a lot of grass being blown back out the front of the deck under the tractor. Without a belly shield in place, those cuttings tend to get sucked up into the flywheel (the flywheel screen is not 100% effective at preventing this). The tin work over the cylinder head on the earlier machines fits tighter to the head than on later machines. At one point there was a retrofit kit to change the tin work for the early machines. That low tin work tends to trap the grass at the back of the head, right where you can't see it, and overheat the tractor.

I had this problem for years on my 100, a head gasket every mowing season, and every time I took it apart, grass caught on the back side of the head.

So some items for your friend to consider if he is running a cast end deck are:

1. Make sure a belly shield is installed. The 100's didn't some with one like the 1x6/7 series machines did, I'm not sure if the 123 did or not. If not, add one.

2. Either change the tin work to the later style or at least add some washers to shim the tin work away from the head a little. This helps to pass the debris better.

3. Be diligent about blowing out the head with compressed air to try and dislodge anything trapped at the back of the head. I tend to do this a few times and let the machine run after each blast to try and clean the debris out.

-Brian

 

[hydroharry]

Hey Wayne - you were asking about wide frame rear lifts with grease fittings awhile back and Charlie posted a pic of the cast lever with 2 fittings. I hadn't seen that before. I just got back from seeing my son and would you believe he just pulled one off an early 149 that has 2 grease fittings on the cast lever and 2 on the long bar. Sure was easy to remove the rod and bar since they were all greased up. It was being used with the rear blade and rake. Here's a pic I tried to take showing the fittings - had to reduce it so much I doubt you can.

 

[jclazar]

Paul, Is that a Sears tiller? I really prefer those over the non-powered. Sure looks like one, though!

On fly wheel cooling, It's hard to beat the Quiet Line model with the increased fly wheel air flow capacity over the Wide frame models.

Well, no luck on the drive line swap-out. Gonna have to wait until I'm hitched this September. But then I'll have some cash to spill into the 'ol 1450 by Job!

 

[wshytle]

Harry-

I've never come across a lift casting with the fittings. I've had two, maybe three tractors where I had to drive the rod out with a long drift pin. The lift rod doesn't seem to be that critical, especially at the rockshaft where weather would have a hard time just getting to it. I'm also surprised IH didn't consider the fittings on the casting. Considering the thickness of the casting wall I believe they could have even installed recessed fittings on both sides without much trouble. The 128 I grew up with had the rear rod fitting. I guess I've seen them on about 50% of the tractors I've come across. Overall I realize there is minimal movement with both but rust doesn't discriminate and can/does cause problems, especially with the casting pivot rod.

It just makes sense to me.

That pic you posted looks like it's getting ready for the "for sale" section.

.

 

[wshytle]

I guess I "jumped the gun" about the lift system being put up for sale. I just hadn't gotten that far yet.

Nice system Harry...a little pricey but nice.

.

 

[prtombaugh]

John,
That is a Planet Jr tiller made by the S. A. Allen & Company. It was often listed in Cub Cadet Original attachment literature. I have never used it, but the gentleman I bought it from used it behind a 100. The literature recommended the Danco UD-6 creeper and the Brinly spring assist be used with this attachment. The correct colors should be charcoal and white. As a side note, the S. A. Allen & Company also made the Flexible Flyer sleds!

 

[hydroharry]

Hey Wayne - I had never seen the grease fittings on the casting until you mentioned it and Charlie posted the pic. The fittings on this one are in a slightly different location than the one Charlie posted. Since it was an early production 149 I thought maybe IH included them.
The price might seem a little up there but when you consider the grease fittings, the double hole long pin and the double lower brackets, and shipping all included, it seemed fair to me.

 

[jbaker]

And we all know that for sale talk is NOT allowed on the main page.

 

[hydroharry]

Jeff - we were just discussing what something was worth. It's probably a thin line but heck, it's off topic Friday too!

 

[wshytle]

Jeff-

Plus, it was just ONE comment.

I was mowing with the 104 today and noticed I didn't have any brakes, or very little. I decided to go back to the shop area and adjust them since I was mowing on the hilliest area I have to mow here. I backed out the little square headed bolt then went to move the tractor a bit to see it moved freely. The rearend seemed to vibrate as it moved which seemed strange to me. I tried to adjust the brakes by screwing the bolt back inward but never could get a braking situation. I'm not that familiar with internal brakes but have had success in the past adjusting them. I couldn't seem to get any brake at all.

I don't want to have to tear this 104 down and replace the pucks but this situation leaves me baffled. Has anyone ever experienced a vibration just attempting to move the tractor inches?

I ended up just putting it back close to where it was and continued mowing (until the primary belt broke).

It's been one of those weeks. GRRRRR!

.

 

[nbodin]

Paul- I used to have a planet Jr. tiller like that one. Mine was a teal green(engine) and tiller was a gold/brown color.

 

[rciminieri]

I want to use my original with the rear lift. I have a set of single hole brinley implements and want to use the correct y hitch. What holds the implement when in the up position? I can see towing the cultivater with wheels or the disc but how do you manage the bottom plow? Thanks guys, Bob

 

[digger]

Bob C.
Yours has to look like this,

 

[jstorma]

I was working on the 128 today and removed the shift lever plate and was wiping it off with a rag and snagged the small tab and broke it off. Is this something important? Small red arrow.

Also, I noticed the hole where the breather is located above the rear cover plate did not seem to have a breather in it. I cleaned out the hole as best I could and after feeling inside under the area I didn't find a hole at all.

Is there something wrong here or this is just the way a gear drive is? If so; Where does it breath?

 

[lpalma]

Harry,
musta come off this one,

 

[lhinds]

John this is a Sears tiller. Built in I think 1964. It is mounted on my 100 with creeper. Just a near perfect garden tool.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jim S.-

Been awhile since I have been into a shifter, but I think that tab keeps the cup from going too far into the shifter. I'm probably wrong, and hopefully someone will correct me.

The gear drive transmissions breathe through the shifter, as the handle is not perfectly sealed to the housing.

 

[brhodes]

I got some time yesterday to get back to the 107 front PTO clutch. I decided to replace the PTO bearing as well. The new bearing has a clip inside the inner race that holds the bearing about a 16th of a inch forward, the original does not. My questions are. Do I leave the clip in or take it out? Was this an upgrade or so the same bearing works on two different applications? The Blue Ribbon Book states have the bearing flush with the crank shaft.

 

[brhodes]

Trying Resizeit online
here is the 122.

I hope.