This just may be the info I need. Do these blades have any more lift than the stock blades? I haven't been able to find blades other than stock, and they won't move the grass into the bagger. I spoke with another dealer who said the bolt-on "wings" should work as long as I make sure the blades are balanced. The blades for my old CC mower had pre-drilled holes, but the blades for my 38" don't, so I was going to drill and tap 3/8" holes, but I really don't want to go this route if I don't have to. I have to do something, though - my compost bin is empty and the grass is getting tall.
Charlie, well everything on the main forum and the Pulling and Hot Rodding forum are saved when the page rolls over to archive. There are so many threads in the other forum areas that I have not had the time to save them, plus they never roll over into an archive and are thus still subject to change. I will be saving the Plow Day forum area posts as they do roll over into an archive. I also save the photos from the classifieds. I do occasionally save stuff from the other areas that I have a personal interest in saving.
There's a 149 for sale on ebay right now that has the identical problem that my 149 has. It will barely crank with a standard battery, but if you put in an auto0motive 12 volt it cranks good. What is the most likely problem?
I asked a similar question not too long ago and I believe Dennis F. told me (4-18-07, 3:38p) that to speed up the outer blades I'd need to make the outer pulleys smaller or INCREASE the size of the center pulley.
When I looked at my 42" deck I determined that to go to a larger center pulley isn't feasible as there isn't much clearance room "to grow" between it and the the idler pulley. And the outer pulleys are pretty small now..... So, I don't know if it can be done 'easily'. Of course if we jacked up the operating rpms at the engine
then we wouldn't need to alter the size of the deck pulleys!
Dave K: Those wide frames with the battery under the seat are prone to the problem you are describing because of the ground location. IH used the closest point to the negative terminal of the battery. Unfornunately, over time, that location, which includes the fender pan, induces so much resistance into the ground path you can't start your tractor unless, as you found out, you put a big enough battery on there to overcome the resistance....
The fix: Buy yourself a new, a little longer, ground cable and use a new, different, location direct to the frame (<u>NO</u> fender pan!!) ensuring a good (clean the paint) metal-to-metal connection.
Then you can paint over the whole thing if you wish or use plenty of di-electric grease to keep the corrosion at bay...
CHIP - I seriously doubt You'll ever get an old IH Cub Cadet mower deck to fill a bagging attachment. Even JD had an add-on blower on their bigger decks to move material into some of their collection systems.
It's been my experience with those old 3-bladed 38" decks that if You get them to move most of the clippings out from under the mower deck in anything but ideal conditions Your doing good! The old cast iron ended decks seemed to have been the worst. The deck I modified for My 72 was the "Stamped End" style and I increased the height and tightened up the clearance between the blades & the baffles under the deck, attached a 1" wide lip at the bottom of the leading edge of the front of the deck, enlarged the discharge chute to about double the size as manufactured. And with all these changes when the grass is really dry I can blow grass about 5-6 feet away from the end of the deck, or about two mower swaths.
If You want to collect clippings for compost a lawn sweeper is probably the best solution. Mow in "LANDS" where You blow clippings into a row so You don't have to sweep the entire yard.
RYAN - What You posted about My comment is correct for the pulleys on the deck itself. IF You want to increase the speed of all the blades on the whole deck, a smaller driven, or top pulley on the center spindle would accomplish that also. The PTO drive pulley on the front crankshaft is pretty hard to modify. If You have a pretty accomidating dealer there are different pulleys used on different decks that You may be able to swap around from say a 38", 42", or 48" deck and end up speeding the blades up for a given engine RPM.
Most of My mowing the last couple years was with the 129 & 44A deck I sold last summer and in the future I'll use the 982 & 50C. Those newer decks perform much better than the old decks, especially the 38" decks.
Didn't see this in the FAQ.
After rebuilding the trunion slot do you use grease on the springs and buttons or leave them dry? Grease would extend the life and give smooth operation but would attract dirt and crud.
No grease could cause binding and shorten the life span. Any ideas? JH