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Archive through April 25, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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jhangartner

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 26, 2006
Messages
119
displayname
Jason W Hangartner
Awesome cub trencher on Epay. Item #270112520282. Too bad it is in Cali.

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KENtuckyKEN,
If you are considering OREGON blades for a 42" deck under your CC127? If so, which are you looking at?
-- one #91-701, 22.25" long with 0.765" center hole, 0.203" thick; and,
-- two of the #91-321, 11.0" long with a 0.755" center hole, 0.203" thick?

Art A.,
Don't be playing coy, your CCO looks GREAT!
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Ryan W
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Cant decide between this or a reproduction metal pan seat with cover. This looks good with co cushion but would it look funny on a 100. Anyone with a pic of one of these on a tractor would be helpful
 
Ryan,

Because they don't make a 22" with a .755 hole, you could go with the 22.25" and drop down .125 on the outer 2?
 
I want to make a nose cone for my 149 that looks like the one on this 1066 out of a QL assembly... Any tips?
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Kevin, Ron
thanks for sending the pictures and text for the 122 mower deck. I have the carriage for the mower deck - I am minus the part that the eyebolts hook into. The part I am missing is the middle part of the carriage that looks like an ackward H - the pulleys are mounted on the tractor - I suppose I could rig up something to make shift - I really don't want to do that. We checked in the old shed - no parts (unfortunately). I have sent a message to Charlie about the want adds.
I very much appreciate your help.
Byron
 
Kraig
The picture you forwarded me is the mower deck that I have.
The piece that I am missing is the inside bar system that hooks to the eye bolt(s) - the picture labeled as number 10 is of the eyebolt as it attaches to the bar. The bar then attaches to the main support. The inner H looking bar that attaches to the eyebolt is the piece of the assembly that I do not have. I have all of the other parts. (I think!)
thx Byron
 
Tim, Hope this helps you. By the way, this is not my tractor. Picture was taken at Cubarama 2005.

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Kirk Thanks exactly what I wanted. By the way that looks sick with steel wheels. Now I gotta build me a set, like I needed another project
 
I also have been using the studs on the rear cover since shortly after Bryan posted about his use. I use jam nuts to hold the rear cover on. It works great for pulling the tiller off in the fall, put the front blade on for the winter, take the blade off and add hitch for plowing at plow day, and then it is back to the tiller until the fall plow day. I just replace the bottom 5 bolts but may do more to add a pulling hitch. I have this setup on 4 of my cubs so I can swap all the implements and hitches between any of them.
 
In reference to adding studs to the back of a 1650: I've heard it said nylocks, jam nuts, and double nuts. I understand double nuts, but nylocks and jam nuts are new to me. I would think double nuts would make the belt too tight because it took all of my strength to get the belt on as is. Could someone please explain the other two to me? I tried to do an internet search for Nylocks but kept getting info about New York Canals. I'm not too good on finding stuff on the internet.

Also I went to fastenal today and the guy said a box of studs would be 28.00, but I could get 3feet of all-thread for 8.00. Is there any reason why I should or should not use the cheaper option of all-thread?
 
Gary L.
Do a search for just nylock, then click the first website that shows up.
As far as studs go, head to napa or any other parts store and pick some up. They are nothing special.
Hardware Hanks carry them here for 57 cents each.

All thread is way to soft and will bend and or break. I've seen it to many times.
 
Ryan - Yep those are the ones, that's only 1/8" long per ends and I know that'll clear.

Gary - You could use grade 8 all thread and make your own or as Charlie said go to a parts store. The double nut is to screw them in if you don't want to use Vise-Grips. Put one nut on then run another nut down and with two wrenches give them a little snug down together. Then you use a wrench on the top nut to screw in the stud. When you're finished loosen the nuts up with two wrenches and unscrew them. Ny-Lock is a self locking nut that has a nylon band inside the top edge.
 
Hi everone; I like to use 1.5 inch long set screws for studs. you can use a allen wrench to add or remove or hold them. They are more expensive but worth it in my opinion. Just my 2c.
 
I like the idea of studs in the rear plate (my dad would be ashamed of me for not thinking of it myself). Regarding the installation process - is there any reason to worry about the Nylocks actually threading the stud further in (possibly breaking through) while putting them on? Or will the thread sealer Ken suggested prevent any movement? I presume the Nylocks would NOT grip so tight as to force the stud too far (unlike the force you could exert with double nuts while installing the stud). I can also see the value of using set screws, as suggested by Luther.
 
And I keep forgetting to type ... I've used teflon tape to seal threads more times than I have used thread sealer. I've done that several times sealing threads when I'd have to drill/tap new holes in SB Chevy heads to install alternator brackets and even on the bottom side of a tiller engine that the factory had drilled/tapped to deep. Just don't get crazy with it and put it on so that it can get inside and tear off little pieces and get into the oil , same with sealer / silicon. A little bit is good , to much is bad!
Teflon tape doesn't leave ya hangin like an old dried out tube of silicon when you "need it now".
One wrap of tape is all you need. Wrap it in the direction the threads turn, just like you were putting on a nut.
 
Ron S.
409 is one of 10 prototypes built at the Louisville plant, during Oct 5th - 14th 1960. I bought it in east Tennessee from the original owners son, after he asked questions about it on this forum. Original owner was an electrical test engineer at the IH test center at Hinsdale, IL. It now is owned by an individual in New York. S/N's 501-525 were test tractors built in November 1960 and sent to the southern regions of the U.S for 50 hours of testing (per tractor), prior to releaseing the tractor for production. It is known where 15 of the 25 were sent for testing. They were to be returned to IH and sold at the completion of the test period. Limited production of the tractor continued with S/N's in the 526 to 589 range to get the manufactoring methods and assembly line set up and ready for production. The tractor was released for production in Jan 1961, beginning with S/N 590.

I also found and bought S/N 510 from a Cub Cadet dealer in central KY, and I bought S/N 556 from and individual in Scottsdale, AZ. S/N 510 now lives in Massachusetts along with 518, 522, and an IH Engineering prototype #411. S/N 515 is in Mississippi, and 505 and 516 are both in Indiana (different owners). It has been learned that the prototype tractors were built without S/N's, and that 4xx series numbers were stamped into the tractors when/as they were released for sale (to IH employee's) by the test center. That is why 411 has a higher S/N, but is older than 409. Casting date codes on 411 date to the early part of 1960, 409's codes are from mid 1960.
 
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