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Archive through April 23, 2018

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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gcorzine

Active member
Joined
Oct 28, 2011
Messages
31
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george corzine
Ethan thank you for the website I will check them out
George-pull the offending pressure relief valve and sent it off to machtechdirect.com for a rebuild
 
Well I have an issue with my 104 Gas tank(original to 104). Leaks at the seams. Has anyone ever had good experience repairing. I'm not much for having to pay $120 to have a tank relined.... Thought of mixing up some fiberglass resin and pouring into tank and get it swirled and coated all around on the inside. Anyone ever try this? or is there something specific for this type of repair that is available to the public? Recommendations?
 
Check out the car restoration suppliers, they usually offer a do-it-yourself tank lining kit. I would be concerned about gasoline eating other materials over time if compatability is not precisely known.

You could also post a wanted add for a good used tank.......there are lots of parts machines out there......
 
Jeff, I'm quite certain that the tank has an inner baffle. It will be hard to get the liner material past the baffle into the second chamber. If you look into the tank you should be able to see the baffle.
 
Jeff - fiberglass resin doesn't like gas with ethanol in it - a lot of motorcycle restorers will attest to that. I personally don't know about the newer liquid lining kits, the older ones that we used to use also had problems with E-10 destroying it after a while, but Eastwood sells a Motorcycle kit for $25.00 and they are a reputable firm. Their literature says any fuel unless it has Nitromethane in it (hmm that would make a K=motor run fast...LOL)..
 
My uncle's neighbor had the fastest Snapper ever,ran only aviation fuel. Don't ask how an 8 year old me found out how fast it was......
Could always try braising the tank
 
Soldering the tank seams would be a better than
trying to braising the tank.

Brazing temperature 840 F
Soldering temperature 626°F to 662°F and no open flame.
 
Jeff, Kraig - If you look at the tank you will see it's made in three similar sections. the center section IIRC has the filler neck plus 4 knotches stamped into the inside end which allows gas & air to move into & out of that end of the tank. The tank was originally soldered, brazing really won't work well. The tank I tried to repair had a crack about an inch from the threaded hole for the sediment bowl. I eventually got the crack brazed, no solder around the repair, but the heat of brazing weakened the solder joints, pressure testing the crack repair resulted in one section of the tank flying about 25 feet across my shop. After seeing the rust pits in the tank up close I have no desire to try to use that tank.

I built a tank for my #72, a larger capacity tank, almost 3 gallons, and sealed it with Eastwood's kit. I was not happy with the liner kit results, no leaks, but the stuff had runs & sags and looked bad. I bought a new gas tank, OEM Kohler, 2 gallon plastic, when they only cost $80.

I'd look for a used basket case lawn mower or garden tractor with a usable gas tank and buy it and part the rest out.
 
I have had gas tanks resoldered at a radiator
repair shop with good results.
 
Tune up on 301:
Thanks Kraig for the comment regarding how often to install new points. My 129 is not starting the way it should and I thought maybe it was time to put in new points. These are 2 to 3 years old. I was just wondering if anyone has a routine when they change points to eliminate any problems
Earl L
 
Thanks for all the feedback on the fuel tank.
I think I will go for trying to have it soldered as a first step.
Have no more room for another parts machine, and what I'm doing now is building up a machine from all the previous parts machines...
Also, Not too easy to find parts/parts machines up here on the Canada side. Any you find they want both of my arms and one leg...
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Radiator shop is an excellent suggestion......boil it out in their tank, then clean up the joints....

Good advice!
 
We use Nutra-sol tank cleaner with 160 degree hot water to clean the tank then solder the tank at the farm my uncles own. We leave the nutra-sol overnight sometimes repeated depending how bad the tank is. Nutra-sol is really for cleaning ag sprayers but it dissolves rust. After draining the tank we blow it out with compressed air, as a extra measure you could flood the tank with shielding gas before soldering but we usually don't unless it has had fresh gas in it recently, I have a cap that was soldered shut for this purpose. Make sure the tank is ventilated so the solder can enter the pinhole or crack. In case you don't know (I'm sure many do though) shield gas is heavier than air. Anyhow please be safe doing this and if it feels unsafe it probably is.
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How bout a good used non leaking tank from another forum member???
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Jeff B I have a 10 hp tank that I don’t really have any use for at this point,if you’d like it contact me my emails in my profile,I’ll see if holds fluids tonight after work,it was attached to one of 1450s I presume by the P/O as an attempt to get the tractor running
 
So pallet one of my pre-season order came in today from Cub Cadet. In case you ever wondered what $17,460.00 looked like in one box pallet, here ya go, LOL
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Charlie,

Either you were excited to see what was inside, or the UPS man threw it over the fence at your place!
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