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Archive through April 20, 2019

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Keith S.-

The filter drains every time you shut the tractor off, so filling it before putting it on won't do much good. I would remove both release valves and pour some Hytran down in both ports, then reinstall the valves and rotate the driveshaft in the direction of normal rotation a few revolutions to make sure the pump is primed.
 
Matt...right now the tractor is separated and there's no engine, so the driveshaft is on my workbench; however, I assume I can accomplish the same thing by rotating the coupling arm. Never did any trans work other than this recent cork gasket job, but I presume you're referring to what the manual calls check valves (?) Loosen with an open end or adjustable the way it looks and then add some fluid - sounds easy enough. Not sure on direction of engine rotation - have to check my notes - believe it's counter clockwise.
 
Matt...interesting that a reply I got on anther forum indicated that he, too, had changed the gasket and then wanted to add hytran through those ports but then said most of it ran out on the floor (?) Won't the pump get primed if I just fill up through the rear? Just wondering. Hate to take anything apart if not really necessary. If it's really important I'll do as you suggest.
 
Do you have to pull the steering column off to get the feet rest off?
 
Keith S,

Since you haven't disassembled your Hydro pump, you shouldn't need to remove the dump check valves and pour Hytran down the holes. Generally, once you fill up the transmission reservoir to the proper level, the charge pump will self-prime the system shortly after engine start up.
Since you've had the pump out to replace the cork gasket, you will need to do the neutral adjustment and have one wheel jacked up off the ground. Once you start the engine, the wheel should start turning within 15-30 seconds. This will indicate the charge pump sucked Hytran into the filter, self-primed the hydro pump and purged the air out of the system.

If the charge pump fails to prime itself after a minute or two, there's a hex plug (not the dump check valves) you remove near the charge pump and rig up a nipple and about a 1-2 ft hose length that you fill with Hytran and then start the engine to help self prime the charge pump.
 
Ron....I'll have to look in the manual regarding the neutral adjustment. I did my best to realign the cam bracket exactly where it was when I took it off, using one of the (many!) pictures I took during the whole disassembly process.

The manual refers to having both wheels off the ground...perhaps easier? Just jack it up in the rear.
 
Keith, you'll want the wheels off the ground so that it doesn't run away on you while you adjust the neutral position.
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Keith-

Ron is correct. I am still in "hydro disassembly mode"...the last two I have changed Hytran in, I had the pump disassembled. At any rate, you can't put a lot of fluid in there, but when the pump is freshly assembled, it needs it.
 

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