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Archive through April 20, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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gtatchell

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 12, 2006
Messages
201
displayname
graeme k tatchell
Hey Digger, you are 1 lucky guy. A lovely wife, a soft cuddly, a gang of Cadets, & now a smoker you just could not wait to get home to try out. I just go green with envy over all the take homes you guys find over there, I still have not found a single other CC in OZ. I have found though that I can order parts thru the local CC (MTD) dealer, will test it on some clutch parts next week. Attached (if OK on topic) 1.Pulled thr fertilizer spreader around 600m2 of lawn toady, heaps easier than pushing by hand, particularly with our slopes & a gummy foot/leg. 2. Moved the trailer twice on concrete with about 800kg of dirt & rocks. No worries. About time I started making the CC look respectable.
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Michael M:

The original motor that came in the 682/782 (depending on age) was the Kohler KT-17 Series I, and later production was the KT-17 Series II.

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Well guys I have pulled the skillet off my head one heck of a welt but I will soon be picking up my new 1650 just couldn't resist.

Do a little fixin and use it to help mow the property. Maws using the 1863 myself on the 1650 now if I had a somebody to drive the 1000.

I guess I better start looking for a rear lift for plow, (got the plow) you know all the old goodies. I know we are not suspose to ask for things here but anybody got an extra "dog house" living arrangements at home might might need to be changed!

Pops
 
Back to the Posts on the IH 42" Decks and their Blades. I can buy the Square Tip Blades from Agri-Supply here in North Carolina Part #13668 for the 11" outside blades. I was at the Greenville NC store yesterday and checked and they still carry them. Their site is www.agri-supply.com Merton
 
Merton - Good find but ... Have you actually seen the blade? It says, "Duplicate" so ???
I wonder if the 13669 is the right one for the center of a 42" deck because it's a 1/4" longer than original.
 
KentucK:
Interesting thread on blades...My 129 deck (48"), the tip ends always went away first, resulting in what started as square blades getting tapered.. On my OT commercial(S**G), which turns the deck spindles at some atrocious speed (like 10,000 RPM), the <u>center</u> of the leading edge wears first. These are "Marbain" steel blades. I can only assume that the air flow pattern on the underside of the deck creates a heavier area of clippings towards the center of the blade (these are "lift" style blades, too).. Oh - and I <u>always</u> used the hardened edge blades on the Cub deck (close to $70.00 for a set last time I bought-from the dealer that closed)
 
Ken Mowed last night with them on My 106 / 42" deck. No Noise or Hitting blades. I mowed a hour with them a 2 weeks ago.
 
Merton - That's good the hear then. I always thought the center blade could have been a little longer as the 22" blade left a tiny string of grass standing between the outer blades. Maybe I'll rebuild the steering on the 127 and order a set of those blades.

Kendell - I'm speachless ;) <font size="-2">typeless</font>
 
Here's the 109 that followed me home last night.

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I tried to start it this am and gas ran out of the air filter... I'm thinking the float is stuck open. I'll soak the carb in cleaner overnight and try it again. Good compression, cranks easily with a new battery. I think this one will come to life pretty quick.
 
Graeme T.,
I'm glad to see you getting some work done with your modified 102!
I'll bet your neighbors really get to 'long-necking' with that beast roaming around your yard!
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Merton C.,
Thanks for the source & part # on the blades!
I think I'll ask them how much the cost would be to ship a set (3 blades) to Michigan....
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Michael M.,
NICE FIND WITH THE 109!
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Keep us posted on your progress!
Ryan W
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Kraig, thanks, if you can hold yer wrist the right way it's 'Sir Walter' (mowed with a 21 inch self propelled - walk behind - Honda !!!)

Ryan, yeh, had 1 taking photos yesterday.
 
Train guys (and gals), I posted a train question in the Sandbox. Anyone have info on what I saw ?
 
I solved the mystery of the no pressure in my 149 hydro. After taking it the pump apart about 4 times, I found the culprit. It appears when the rotor and pin assembly broke apart, a small piece of the pin about a 1/4 inch long was sitting in the assembly blocking fluid from flowing. Not sure why I did not see it the first, second or third time I had it apart. I am so glad I put a u-joint drive-shaft in this one, as it makes taking it apart a breeze. The broken pin really could have caused some damage if it would have gotten into the rotor assembly. The weird thing is, I thought I found the pin when I took it apart. There was a metal piece that I found that looked like it has been damaged about the length of the rotor pin. Not sure what is was. I just wonder if the previous owner left something in there, and that is what caused the problem in the first place.

I put it back together, and she started pumping with proper pressure. All is good. Maybe I need some better lighting in my garage. I was one step away from pulling the hydro unit and putting in a spare.

thanks for all the help.

I now have a much better understanding of how a hydro works, and feel fairly comfortable working on them.

Moved some dirt in the garden with the blade, and have the mower deck on. First mow of the season will be tommorow.
 
Merton,

Great find!

So, Its part # 13668 (outer 11") and 13669 (center 22")?
 
Hey all,

Well, by the way posts look I'm really behind. I'm glad to hear everyone had so much fun at plow day. I'd like to try to get scheduled up next year for it. The wife even said it sounds like a lot of fun! Is it just plow type cubs OR could I even bring out my loader to show off? ļ

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104 UPDATE
==========

No love when key is turned.

Not so much as a click.

1) cleaned the ground chassis contact.
2) replaced a corroded hot battery lead.

All I get now is a 1/2 mark discharge deflection on the ammeter when the key is turned to ON.

What should I check now?
 
Bob - Check the gen/starter to be sure it is getting a good ground through the mount. Maybe try a battery cable jumper from battery (-) to the generator frame to make sure your ground isn't the problem.

You can test the generator to see if the trouble is in it or other wiring by taking a jumper from the battery (+) to the Armature post on the S/G. This will crank it over if all is good so be sure to have it out of gear and PTO disengaged. Just give it a "bump" to see if it turns over.

(under edit)
Pull the plug wire off the coil so it doesn't start up.

Becareful!
 
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