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Archive through April 20, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Kevin, how about putting up an electric fence around it? Just wind some ribbon around the wire to make it look nice but not so much that you cover all the wire. :eek:)
 
Travis, cool, I sure hope it shows up! Worst case I wouldn't mind a side trip.....
 
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Dan C., above is a photo from a brochure of a 70 dash, the 100 had a plastic steering wheel cap rather than the acorn nut.

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Above is a photo from a brochure of a 71 dash.

Note the different IH/Cub Cadet logo at the top of the dash. The 72 I believe had a wider dash.

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on April 21, 2004)
 
Anybody know what this is all about?...
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<font size="-2">I like the funky black and yellow deck too!</font>
 
Art, I don't know but the same slot appears in another photo in a different brochure on the 70/100.
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To add to "I didn't mean to start a collection"
I picked up a Cadet 55 off the curb for free, put about $50 into it (Part of that was the manuals) and mowed for two seasons. Than Spot came into my life. A couple of Quite lines passed through my hands and a 102 and a couple of X82's (Travis got them and that got me hooked). Than I had to get the 123 for Toad and the 682 was calling to me to dig it out of the shed that it had been buried in for eight years. Now Foxtrot is in the Q.

BTW, does any one have a "assmbly drwaing" of the pepper pot mufffler for the K241?? I think that my baffles are MIA I can see day light through the thing front to the drip hole at the back!?!?!
 
Jonathan Luckey
Here is what I have found on the 109 - 169 and the Quietlines. The 18 1/4 and the 19 1/4 measurments are from the top of the steering sector to the top of the column.
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Question for all you experts in this great fourm. I just picked up a 782 and am very new to this IH CC stuff, but very excited. My problem is that the tractor will not move when in neutral and not running. As I have been waiting for parts to get it running I do not know if it will move while running so maybe you guys out there could explain to me about these hydrostatic transmissions. I think it must be a simple thing, but I just can not seem to figure it out at the moment. Thanks for any insight!
T-
 
Looks like Richard C's got one helluva corrugated cardboard collection, too
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That picture Richard posted makes me wonder if it wouldn't make sense to put a QL steering box in my 149. (it needs to be replaced because the tube is loose in the aluminum case.)

Judging by the marks on the column, it looks like they both exited the dash in the same location, but the QL one is an inch longer for a more upright seating position.

<font size="-2">Can't wait to plow this weekend, Can't wait to plow this weekend, Can't wait to plow this weekend, Can't wait to plow this weekend.....</font>
 
Bryan-

That is so dang funny, I was just going to post that same comment.

Richard- Please don't think we are making fun of you. Your use of card board has been greatly useful over the years. Because of you, I use it myself from time to time.

I was teaching an adult computer class last night, and the question was asked what does "ME" stand for in Windows ME. I told them "Mistake Edition". I had a good laugh.
 
Terry, first thing I would check is to make sure that the brake isn't hanging up.

Art, those tubes aren't in the aluminum casting all that well. I just clean it up and JB Weld them together. I think there is only one replacement column now for all the tractors (minus the original), and I beleive it is the quiet line column.
 
Travis, Art - I slipped a 1-1/2" OD x 3/8" wall steel sleeve down inside the steering colume of the 72 years ago until it just pressed up against the top thrust bearing of the steering gearbox inside the colume. I drilled & tapped three holes for small short machine screws into the steel sleeve. Steering tube has stayed put MANY years since then. Only thing I've ever had success with JB Weld with was patching a metal gas can I accidently punched a very small hole in. YMMV, yadda-yadda-yadda.
 
Travis-
Thanks for the info on the replacement steering assemblies. I didn't realize they went to a "one size fits all" replacement situation, but I can understand why.

My initial thought was to do as you suggest with cleaning it up and JB Welding it together. I thought I'd "stake" it with some pop rivets as well as I think they'll clear the shaft inside, but it's good to know that it should stick together after doing that repair..

BACK UNDER EDIT AFTER READING DENNY'S POST: Maybe I'll do both...Thanks Denny!

(Message edited by aaytay on April 21, 2004)
 
ART - Place I used to work at down in the Q-C's had a washer or spacer machined from 4130 Aircraft Quality tubing that size then heat treated/hardened.... So they could weld on it.... Go figure?!? Somehow a couple followed Me home from work one night before they got heat-treated. They were just the perfect size for supporting the top bearing of the steering gearbox, locking the tube to the box, and centering the shaft. I wish I had one more because I'd "FIX" the brand new gearbox I bought for the 72 3-4 years ago but haven't installed yet. Main thing is the OD, wall thickness can be less but should be enough to tap good threads. Anything from #10-24 to 1/4"-20 threads works well. And actually plastic or aluminum would work as well as any steel tube. I fixed My 129 the same way at least 10 yrs ago also.
 
Can anyone show me a pic of the "correct" cig. lighter for a cub cadet narrow frame?
lazerburn.gif
deadat30.gif
 
Kent S. -

Only one <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> lighter that I'm aware of, been posted many times before - here's one on my 169:
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Dang Kraig, I had to smbmount my XP PC at home to my Linux server then ftp the picture over to my PC at work then post it. No wonder ya beat me!

That and I keep forgetting that mods aren't limited to 50K - sorry all you dialups!!
 
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