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Archive through April 17, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I am getting prepared to paint my latest project, a 149. So far I have painted 2 Cubs with marginal results. I have been using Cub Cadet paint with a gun. I always seem to get runs, too thick in some places, too thin in others. I am getting better with that, but what kind of thinner do you use with CC paint. The local paint shop says you have to match the thinner, but nowhere on the label is the type of paint. Also, how much do you use. The last I mixed with the thinner I had looked like sour milk when I mixed it. How about hardner? Thanks
 
PTO Clutch Slipping - Cub Cadet,1968, Serial #266188. My front PTO clutch is slipping under load. Operator's Manual says "see dealer for servicing." How do I adjust/repair this? I loosened three set screws but I can't get the clutch to slip off. Thanks in advance. New member on forum.
 
Hi Guys, I'm new, but have reading the posts for a couple of years and this is my first post. So thanks for the info. I have looked on the FAQ's for this stuff and searched the archive..

1. I think I have a bad electric pto on my 77 1450 it only engages when cold and only once a day. Do I have to replace the whole clutch? or just the coil? and what is the difference between Warner clutch & Ogura?
2. The steering is loose lots of play in the wheel. Do I have to replace the whole column or is there a piece that I can replace to fix this? is it a big job?
3. Have I exceeded my the question limit for 1 post?
 
Just to add to the complements to Dave Ross and the gang. Had a great day!! I hope the young ladt is feeling OK today. :cool:.

The smoker did get a chance to get the cobb webs out a little bit pulling Mike's double disc around. Boy does that tractor need some rear skins and weight to go with it. I did try the pulling sled with the smoker, and I'm hear to tell you that I came in first for the skortest pull catagory!! Pulled about 6" and spun out, leaving a black patch of rubber in the black dirt.

Was checking out the tire department most part of the day, I'm still not sure that bigger is better as far as the rears go.

As far as the coulter goes, isn't that primarily for cutting sod? Not to sure it did and good in the crumbly topsiol conditions yesterday.
 
Richard W.: Take the 3 set screws out then go back in and take 3 more set screws out. Now go to the top of the page and check out FAQ. You can also do a word search on PTO and should find pictures and post on removal of PTO. Search my posts in the last 2 weeks as I posted a cut away of that PTO.
 
David G,
I have had good luck using martin senour acrylic enamel reducer and hardener. Use 8 parts paint,
4 parts reducer, and 1 part hardener. Allow plenty of flash time between coats. 15 min to a half hour depending on the temp. Also get reducer
for the temperature it will be when you are painting.
 
RE: PTO removal IH Cadet 104: Thanks for the information about "removing three screws and then remove three more..." Do you actually mean remove or just loosen. In my first attempt I did not remove them for fear of not being able to get them re-seated through such a small hole. I have seen on some of the posts - two sets of screws in each hole. Are they beside each other or front to back? Should I take them out completely? Thanks.
 
Richard W
Front to back in the same hole. One closest to the shaft should be pointed and the second one(lock) should be blunt
 
Anyone in the Grand Rapids area that can help me out?
I'm buying a 60's era outboard motor up there (it weighs 215 lbs) and the seller won't ship. I need someone who can pick it up, strap it to a pallet and ship it to me in South Florida. Is there anyone up there that can do that for me? ...or do you have any other suggestions?
 
RE: PTO Removal--Two Screws each hole: Thanks all for the help. I'm slow, but I think I've finally got it. I'll try it tomorrow.

Next question: What is there to "adjust" to stop the slippage when under a load?
 
Anyone with access to an old parts catalog?!?

I'm looking to find out whether the bushings in axle housings, one from a 70 are directly replaceable with the needle bearings in newer axle housings. . . . . i.e., is the axle housing part number the same on something like a 70 as something like a 149?

If the part numbers are the same, they should be machined the same and the needle bearing and bushing should interchange. The bushings in my 70 housings are pretty sloppy and will need a replacement, just wondering if I can go one better and get the bearing instead.
 
Wyatt, I have the parts books you asked about, but they are at my work office. Can't help you tonight! Sorry.
 
Just walked in from Plow Day!!!! Guess everyone else beat me home
lol.gif
 
Wyatt,
The axle bushing on the 70 that also fits 71,72,73,100,& 122 is PN- IH-384664-R2.

It takes needle Bearing 741-0363 on the other hand fit tons of tractors from 70's through 3225 front axles. If ya need anything else just holler.
 
Charlie-
Are the axle housing part #'s the same on a 70 as it is on a 149?

I'd think that would be the key to interchangability.
 
Wyatt
They are not the same. For example, the left housing used with a bushing is P/N IH-384622-R12. The left housing used with a needle bearing is P/N IH-397322-R11.
 
Wyatt,
Yes they are the same.
They have differant PN's but are the same.
70/100 -PN 384664-R2 which is NLA
But show up under the 149 list as still a good number.
149- PN-703-0906 Right side IH-397322-R11 Left Side.
 
Wyatt I just checked a couple pairs out in the shop. they are as Paul mentioned different. the housings used with needle bearings have a larger bore than those that used bushings. so if you are looking at updating a 70 rear to needle bearings in the axle housings you'ld have to bore out the housing to get them in. or just find a setwith the needles already in them.
 
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