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Archive through April 15, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Digger,

You did, BUT with out that last picture.

Thanks!

Matt

EDIT: Um, my throttle shaft doesn't look like the 25 757 18 or the 25 757 19. The guy at the CC dealer thought it was a 25 757 16. How can two part numbers be replaced by six?

(Message edited by mkopishke on April 16, 2004)
 
New Fleetguard filter on the 169, engine full of Mobil1, pickup fueled and 6 fresh quarts of RotellaT in the pan, token 4 well-oversized tie downs attaching the tractor firmly to the trailer, plow tool box packed, gas can packed, plow packed, ramps, cooler of eats. Looks like the dog, wife and I are ready to hop in at 5:00 AM sharp!
 
I am rebuilding my 149 and having a real problem removibg the S/G pulley on the crankshaft. I have nearly destroyed the pulley and it still won't move. I have removed both set screws, lots of PB and have 2 crowbars wedged behind it. Many thanks.
 
Rob D.
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David G,
Have you tried drivin it closer to the engine, sprayin it down again and then clamp the engine down if it's not in the tractor and use your pry bars with wood blocks behind them against the engine and wedge it right off. If all else fails and you've always got the sawzall method if you've already messed the pulley up.
 
Just thought I'd say hi and have fun at Plowday
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I got one of the 15 new-to-me cubs running. Kraig will be pleased to know that it is a 125
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That was probably the best thing that happened to me today, <font size="-2">which is good because this has been one of the crappiest days I've ever had...
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Matt G.
sorry to hear you had a bad day. maybe this will help.

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i read the personal quote in your profile.
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First Thank You guys for all your Ideas on how to fix my 169 which Ideld great just couldn't give it throttle or it would choke/miss.

After trying everything with the Carb and points. etc... and looking at the manual ! which mentioned it could be electrical.

I noticed that the condenser wire was on the positive side of the coil. Bad Bad

Changed it to the neg and ran as good as any cub.

Thats why its imperative to have multiple tractors for reference and your own dumb late night mistakes.

Tim
 
Finally got another camera. Here is the M&W(Edith) in her plow day clothes.
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and here is my de-rusting in operation.
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Tim G.: Get a Dave Kirk point saver and you don't need the condesor and it will run even better. My Original(TeD) starts easier since I put on Dave K.'s point saver.

(Message edited by wdeturck on April 16, 2004)
 
David G-
Bearing seperator and a steering wheel puller. Good bearing seperators like those from OTC have threaded holes to pull on. When you get into it you'll need it on one of hte bearings too.
 
David G.
i don't know how "correct" this is of a fix, but i had the same problem taking that pulley off the 169 crank. i also went the PB blaster and crow bar route at first and even thought of breaking out the torch to expand the collar but ended up with this...
(torches and PB blaster don't mix too well)

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i drilled two holes across from each other close to the collar, between the welds and used a stering wheel puller on it, worked pretty well for me.

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Hi all, hope you have a great plow day tomorrow! I hade good day here. I finished rebuilding my pto clutch, hang and level my mower deck, and mowed the yard for the first time. All went well. Now it is time for the next project. I think I will probably alter this hitch and make a bracket for the tractor. Any input is greatly appriciated.
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Here are the attachments I have. My dad bought them in 1973, and they have not been used by anyone since then.
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Hey Guys,

Hope someone can help. My 682 stops firing on one of the cylinders after mowing for about 20 to 30 min. Don't know if it's a plug wire or coil. Replaced both spark plugs. After it cools, runs fine again until 20 to 30 min.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks
 
Norm-My neighbor just got done dealing with the same thing. A pair of coils and 80.00 later it's solved. When it's hot the coil winding will short out,it'll come back to life when cooled down.
 
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