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Archive through April 15, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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thoffman

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Tom Hoffman
Can a clutch Brake PTO be converted back to a standard type PTO? Don't want to tear up a good one to make it back to standard.
 
Tedd,
That's what you call "Parade deposits". Those Cub Cadet were mad to <font size="+2">WORK</font> not cruse the neighborhood.
 
Hey, It's rainig here. Could use a little.

Travis,
Those MFing Lawers. If it isn't theirs, it isn't worth a dime. What are all their law books worth to you???
 
Oh yeah, 2 of the 3 guys are currently in jail for things that happened AFTER they took mine!!!
 
Tedd-
I wouldn't worry too much about that. If you only had 10 hours on the engine at that point it's still bound to use more oil than normal. (Wes H., you can check DTAC on this) but there's recommendations that state that small engines in this hp range won't break in fully until 50 hours or so. Like others said, don't worry too much about it, looks like it was a working plug when you pulled it. It's when the plug fouls itself so it doesn't work in 10 hours that I'd start to worry.
 
Tech question for narrow-frame hydro fans:

How do I adjust the ratio-lever friction on a 127? Looking down inside the pedestal, I see a big nut that looks like it tightens the friction disks down, but I have no clue how to get a tool down there to make any adjustment...
 
Dave K., I went to Harbor Freight and bought the cheapest box end-open end set of wrenches I could purchase and cut one off to a length that would fit inside the pedstal to tighten the nut on my 127. Don't remember the size wrench it took, but I bought the whole set so I could make more custom wrenches if I needed to. Don't know what others do, but that worked for me.
 
Travis,
Bryan brings up epay. Printouts of closing bids of similar items, like the 782D on there now, might hold weight with the judge. Lawyers seem to understand paper not equipment.
I've used newspaper ads as proof with insurance and IRS issues. And a C and G ad has a 782 for 1700.

But, the main thing might be just to get a felony conviction, $200 in VA is a Felony.

Dave

(Message edited by dphelps on April 16, 2004)
 
your_image.gif
Seeing if I can get this picture posting right.
 
Hey Dave, Paul is right on with that one. I believe that the wrench you need is a 1" or somewhere around there - I bought a cheapie no name and did the same thing that Paul did. You could also use a crow's foot if you have one. Just put the wrench or crow's foot on there and move the hydro lever one way or the other to tighten or loosen the nut.

I had a lot of problems with the one on my 147 a while back where I would tighten it and then it would feel too tight and then loosen up and then get tight again - I don't know exactly what was causing this but when I took the assy apart there was a lot of junk and rust in there with the friction disks. After the rebuild it works great. Not saying that you'll have to do that, just relaying info. Good luck with it.

Steve
 
From the "73, 1x6/7" Service Manual.
17814.jpg


17815.jpg


(Message edited by kmcconaughey on April 16, 2004)
 
Kraig -

Amazing what ya can learn if ya
rtfm.gif
 
Charlie, I'd say because the text is a hold over from the 71, 1x2/3 and 72, 1x4/5 series where the battery was mounted on the front of the pedistal. Good catch! I wonder how many people over the years removed the battery. :eek:)
 
.....Buy a wide frame with the removeable frame cover......problem solved!!!!
happy.gif
happy.gif
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I think you have to remove the battery to let the Flux-Capacitor spool down first, but I'm not sure....
;-)
 
Thanks for the answers, guys- here's my retorts;

Can't RTFM I don't have, and at 2:30am, just hours after this sad-sack hit my shop floor, TFM ain't here yet. I reely appreciate 'ya takin' the time to scan TFM for me though!

I think I can make the keystock trick work, provided I can get my big paw down in there...

Mebbie I can take a piece of metal and stab a welding-rod into it, and use the rod to hold it... :)

Re. removing the battery... well, I didn't hafta doo that, seein's how the battery (and the last inch-or-so of cables) is gone. Sounds like (from everyone's comments) that the battery should be under the seat, but THIS 127's battery is under the hood, between the pedestal and the gas tank.

Seems that besides the friction adjustment, the next biggest challenge will be how to get the family of dead mice out of the gas tank... the shop-vac took care of the nest materials, but the mice... they're... uh... 'petrified' into the bottom....

Lookin' forward to meetin' a bunch'a 'ya Tomorrow! If I seem a bit 'tired', it's probably 'cause my band has a late gig tonight, and I've got lots of gettin' ready to do for the show AND PD7!
 
I have a 1961 original cub cadet. My question is with the mower deck. Does anyone know what size belts the 38" deck takes and how to adjust it correctly?
 
Hey Dave, regarding the key stock, I tried that trick and when the nut has been on there for the last 30 years or so, it doesn't want to move. My experience was that the shaft or the pedestal moved away from one another while turning the hydro lever and "skipped" over the corner of the nut which didn't allow it to work too well. I'd suggest the wrench as previously stated and save yourself some trouble.

Regarding the battery removal, I don't see how you can do the job without removing the battery (OK, so it's already removed on yours)as it is right in the way. I don't think they relocated the battery to under the seat till the 1x9 models. Well in any case, good luck with it.


Steve
 

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