Archive through April 13, 2005

[cmccarty]

Gentlemen, Spring is here and I need to make a couple of mowers run at their optimum. How much Marvel Mystery Oil do you put in the gasoline? The bottle says 1 oz per 2.5 gallons of gas? Is that the best ratio, or is more better? or? Also, do you add this mysterious marvel to any other cub fluids?
Thanks. Charlie

 

[digger]

Charlie M,
If your using the small bottle, most just put a cap full per Cub tank. If not, use as the directions call for. Works for me including my driving vehicles.

 

[craymond]

Well gang heres an update on my Cub Cadet. Its serial number 224826 which looks to me like a '67 model 72.
Its in the back of my pickup right now. I'd intended on working on it in a friend's garage but he's on vacation for a week longer than I thought. So I guess I'll be pulling the old motor in the back of the truck.
The good: Its all there, of course alot of the cotter pins have been replaced with nails or wire but the basic bits are all there. The clutch is not locked up and does appear to work well. The holes for the pins are not all rounded out. I think this tractor has never done much other than cut grass.

The bad: The mower deck is trashed. I think just for entertainment value I may try fiberglassing it just to see if it'll hold.
The muffler appears sound but I bet if I try to take it off it'll crumble.
The battery is dead and leaking. The hold down strap was actually holding sideways and cut into the body of the battery... Of course rust has developed where the acid leaked out.
The sediment bowl looks to have leaked before all the gas was gone, its got some kind of a wierd bolt in it, not like other sediment bowls I've seen on tractors.

Oh, and the connecting rod in the engine is broken... I do have a replacement motor though.
So for $50 for the tractor, and $325 for the motor it looks like I can get this thing in good overall shape for less than $600 which to me seems like a good deal.

 

[cfischer]

Hey can anyone tell me what this lever is? I don't know what it does. And I was out mowing today and at one point the belt came off the deck, any ideas, and what is that bolt to the right there? How tight should that be? And the last photo is the back end of my 1250, what is it missing?

Thanks,
Chuck
http://www.chazmonro.com/photos/lever_1.jpg
http://www.chazmonro.com/photos/mule.jpg
http://www.chazmonro.com/photos/back.jpg

 

[digger]

Chuck F,
I was gonna come back with a smart answer but I figure your really serious about asking them!

The first is the hydro release lever for when you want to move your Cub around with it not running. It releases the pressure and makes the wheels free wheeling.

The bolt on the right is to the pulley and the the lever on the left is to adjust the tension on the belt. It needs to be tight enough for about 1/2" deflection in the belt.

There's nothing missing on the back other than the lift casting if you want to lift attachments off the rear.

I assume from your questions that you really are new to garden tractors so I would suggest that buy some manuals, your going to need them.
And yes I'm going to say it, BTFM's

 

[cfischer]

Thanks digger, I have the photocopy of the owners manual, but I didn't see the free wheeling lever in there, must have missed it. I also thought, heck I have the camera and the time, why not just ask the experts.

Hey no problem being honest with me, I work with computers and we're always telling people to read the manual.

Chuck

 

[dreid]

Digger:

In a recent response to Chuck you said there was a hydro release lever on the model he was talking with you about. I see on the chassis of my 782 a placard warning not to push or move it, and I've been through the (photocopied) owner's manual many times, but can't see any talk about such a release valve on my rig. Do you know if there is one, or if a guy needs to move a 782 does he do so veeery slowly and not too far?

 

[jkoenig]

Dale(and anyone else interested),
I've posted about these back and forth with Dale R. Finally got around to resizing the Pic. Here is my wheel weight setup. There are three 20# barbell weights in this wheel for a 23x8.5x12.

(Message edited by jkoenig on April 16, 2005)

 

[jkoenig]

And for the slanty grill lovers:

(Message edited by jkoenig on April 16, 2005)

 

[thoffman]

Big Brother Bob and I did some scratchin' yesterday am. Ground conditions were great, but the corn stubble kinda' sucked. Here's Bob on this 122.

 

[thoffman]

And here's me on the 782D.

 

[stritle]

Hello. I am new here, but have been watching for a while.

I have a 782 Cub Cadet that I was the tractor I had as a kid. Now that I am grown up, it was given to me for my own home.

Problem is, after sitting in the barn for a while, parts are starting to break one by one. The tie rods were first to go, now an occasional bolt here an there.

My steering is the main problem now. I have a lot of up and down play in the steering wheel. IS there a way to fix that? Thanks.

 

[dharmon]

Are there other model decks that will fit the 48", like maybe a 42 or 44"?

Thanks in advance......

 

[agitch]

Steve T.

You can rebuild your steering and that should fix it. Should be in the service manual. I'd look your tractor over really good and try and replace anything that looks worn out like links, clevis, cotter pins etc....

 

[rbedell]

Steve T:

See Item #16 in the FAQ section.

Roland

 

[pvolner]

Donnie the 42" and the 48" deck used the same carriage, so they will swap.
The 44" and the 50" decks used the same carriage so they will swap, they were used on the wide frames.

 

[rabrown]

When installing a new wiring harness, there is a medium blue colored wire that I belive goes to the BAT terminal on the regulator and then to the hotside on the starter solonoid. At least that is the way I connected. But when tractor runs it shows discharge all the time and sucks the battery dry while running. Any ideas? Anyone have a good 149 wiring diagram they could share or some tests I could do? Now it won't turn over at all and the battery has a full charge.

 

[mbounds]

RAB: The light blue (in the harness) goes from the S/G side of the solenoid to the G (Gen) terminal of the Regulator!! The B (Battery) terminal of the regulator should have a gray (not part of the harness!!) wire going to the negative side of the Charge Indicator Gauge. The F (Field) terminal on the regulator must be connected with a yellow wire (in the harness) to the F (Field) terminal on the S/G ONLY!!
Myron B

 

[rbedell]

Roger B:

Here is a Color Coded Wiring Diagram.

Hope this helps,

Roland

 

[ddillon]

Question for the pros, I was lucky this weekend when the wife let me buy a 149 that a fellow had begun to restore and ran out of time for his project, when I brought it home yesterday, I put a new battery and fresh gas and it fired up. Although today it won't spark at the plug?? I changed the plug, coil, condenser, points, plug wire, checked the switch and even changed the starter/generator?? I have power to the both sides of the coil and at the points although no spark at the plug?? Any ideas before I go nuts btw this is my first wide frame and so far I'm not impressed.