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Archive through April 12, 2004

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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Well, I am new here and haven't really figured my way around here yet. It seems this forum is a little different than the ones I am used to. They usually have many more sub categories. Well, here is my problem, I have a 70 something IH Cub 1650 with the hydro tranny and the tractor won't move whatsoever. I have read some of the common problems, but it seems they all deal with erratic driving conditions. This thing doesn't move. I'ts been sitting a while. Does it just need a fluid change or what. I did wonder one thing. How does the neutral lever work? I am wondering if the two little valves that the neutral lever push down are stuck and it stays in neutral all the time. I don't know. Well, thanks for any help or advice you can give me, my lawn really needs cut!!
 
Tedd:
Yeah. I was beginning to think they were fictional characters. Now I know they're real characters. . .
lurking.gif
 
Aaron..

what'ya think guys... sheared pin on the driveshaft?
 
Kentucky Ken: Isn't the B-10 just about the same as a B-12. My neighbors B-12 with a B&S engine turns opposite of a Cub. All the other startters I have seen turn the flywheel and the S/G on a cub turns the crank end. thanks
 
where is the driveshaft? Is it the shaft coming from the engine to the tranny that has a fan on it? Or is it in the tranny?
 
Scott, Aaron, it could be a sheared pin on the driveshaft but I think it could also be the check valves are stuck down.

17696.jpg
 
Aaron, the drive shaft is the part with the fan on it. There are 3 pins on it one at the engine end, and 2 at the hydro end, one on each side of the flexible disk. The one on the engine end is the least likely to be sheared as it is a solid pin. It would be a spirol pin on the fan side of the flexible disk.

17699.jpg
 
Aaron -- a driveshaft is a drive shaft ... it goes to the rearend - the long skinny metal thingy between the rear and the engine ... if the release valves are popped up then it's the shear pin on either end of the shaft.

Kraig -- I was thinking Lady was Black and White ... sorry Rev. I've still got that link but hadn't looked at it in a long time.

Geezer -- yep same as just bigger engine ... my B&S B10 s/g may turn backwards after all , I knew I used it on something else but it was on my B&S 16 ... gettin forgetful ... burned to many welding rods !

who the hell woke up Mcgiver ???? What ya up to Mr. long time no hear frum emails bouncing all over the net.
 
I think it is that the check valves are stuck down. The little nipple that is on it is totally flush with the head. I think it may have been put in neutral to move it right before it was stored and never really taken out of neutral. Is there anywhere locally that would sell that part? There is a buckeye power sales close to me. I know that the driveshaft does spin while its running. I know what a driveshaft is, its just these have a rearend/tranny all in one.
 
Kraig -

I know it's a solid pin on a 1x9, but I think it's a spirol on a QL because they have another flex disc on the front of the driveshaft...

Aaron -

Take a look at the past few days' archive, cleaning the relief valves is covered.

Replacing a SINGLE valve with a NEW one is big bucks, so you don't want to go there if you don't have to. You can always get a used one from a sponsor if need be.

Also, leaving it in neutral has nothing to do with whether the check valves are stuck down.
 
One other thing, I had one of those check valves out the other day and started the tractor and fluid came rushing out of it. Based on this observation, wouldn't it meant hat the driveshaft does not have a sheered pin? Just trying to help troubleshoot. Three other smaller problems I'm having with the tractorare 1. the ignition is broken, no key, and I have to jump start it with a screwdriver on the solenoid.(does this mean I have only a bad ignition, or bad ignition and solenoid?) 2. I noticed that there was gas leaking from under the tractor, took a look at it and it's coming from the carb. Any ideas what would fix this? 3. Smaller prob, seems a little gas seaps out of the gas lid, does this just require a new lid? I think it had a gauge on it for fuel amount, not sure though. It seems that all of these attacks happend at the same time, making troubleshooting difficult.
 
Aaron -

It might also help you out if you get yourself a set of manuals. Since you already read the FAQ, you know which ones we suggest and where to procure them.
 
Wyatt,

I will look at that tonight.

It ran fine on the engine stand 4 months ago. I just replace the main throttle shaft a week ago then this started?

Could that have any affect on it?
 
Bryan, thanks for correcting me. I guess I should buy a complete quite line so I know what I'm dealing with when <strike>helping</strike> attempting to help someone. :eek:)

Digger, thanks. :eek:)

I hope to have the 2004 WFM video available soon after the event. Sure wish I could make it to PD7. Anyone wish to take an hour or 2 of video at PD7 to submit to me for DVDs and VHS versions? Digital 8 format preferred but 8mm will do too. I'll give you half the profits, which means you'll owe me some $$$. :eek:) Actually I'd make a DVD and/or VHS copy for you.
 
What do I need to use to clean these valves? I read somewhere that I need to use acetone. Is this correct? I really need to get this tractor running asap, I'm going to get a manual, but would like to get started in the mean time.
 
Aaron, from the manual.......
17704.jpg


If you can get ahold of the buttons with a pliers you might be able to pull them back up, then work them back and forth to free them up. Last resort only trick, that I think Jim D. came up with, is to tack weld a wire to them to pull them back up.
 
Aaron K.
Some suggestion on your 1650. Did you pull the plug on the rear transmission plate and check the fluid level? Stick a screw driver through the hole at a angle and you can figure how much fluid is in the rear end. It should be up to bottom of the fill plug but will work if it is down some.

Since it is a 1650 you have hydraulics, does the lift work okay, telling you your hydraulic pump is working.

If just a little bit of the nipple on the check valve is showing you might be able to pull them up. I use a small vise grip that has a real sharp edge on it and I can clamp it hard and pull up.

17707.jpg


One other suggestion and I may regret this, just be real careful, with the tractor in an open area put it up on jack stands, start the engine and rev it up, switch back and forth from forward to reverse. The extra pressure from the higher rpm's might just reset the valves.

If you have to remove the valves to clean be sure and clean the area around the valves good so you don't get any dirt in the opening. Remove the rubber o rings and the plastic piece and then soak the valves in a good cleaner and then use air to see if you can push the ball up. Be sure to get the o rings and plastic piece back in the right order.
 

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