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Archive through April 07, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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eford

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
1,317
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Earl Ford
I have been thinking about having a tag line like
"Collecting 1450's instead of the whole series"
I missed the boat on them anyway. Literally a big ole caddy pulling a 6x12 or so trailer.
 
Earl - go ahead and put it in. You can change it whenever you want, just like me.
 
Hydro,
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I was busy working yesterday.
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I have not had time to confirm your comments on the V/R. A quick thought on it is that you're most likely correct.
 

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Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - you were "busy working yesterday"
Dang it, you gotta get your priorities right. You're an Admin on here and you just gotta be Johnny on the Spot. This is the best Forum on the World Wide Internet and I intend to keep it that way. As for you confirming my comments, I knew I was "likely correct" cause I was already wrong once this year and that's all Charlie will allow me before he kicks me off. I need to know if I'm "absolutely correct".

AND once you finally confirm whether I'm absolutely correct, then I need to know what people do for replacement 1x8/9 V/R regulators that require a B or BAT (Battery), G or GEN (Generator), F or FLD (Field), and the GRD (Ground) terminal. You can't just connect a wire to the mount base cause that's isolated with those little rubber spacers. How the H do you ground one?

I'm really hoping you got an answer for me today. Or someone else on here does
 
Harry
Some of my 1x9s have about a 12ga. white wire that runs from the V/R to the battery ground so IH did finally get it right! I think your write-up on the V/R is fine and I hope it helps Don and others to finally get them charging. And thankyou Kraig for the charts again.
 
Hydro, from the archives:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

"By Kmcgiver (Kmcgiver) on Sunday, November 28, 1999 - 10:53 pm:
To Mark Huffman and all: Good Point Regulators have varied over the years. I would never go by any pic. Your best bet is to remove the wire and look and see what the terminal says. BAT, F, GRD, GEN. There are two different part numbers listed for the regulators and they will interchange. There is a Terminal "L" on a 121577-C1 on the Orig and such the only thing it did was provide power to the ign coil. The 545130-R92 used on 149,s and the like only have four terminals. To use one of the newer style on the older tractor all one has to do is connect the wire that went to the "L" post on the regulator to the battery side of the starter sole. To use a old style reg on a newer tractor don't hook anything to the "L" post. Never know what people like me have done in the past I have a 100 right now with the later style reg. "<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
Looking forward to more shed time this weekend. Going to a big auction Saturday, maybe I'll find more 1450's...
Going to investigate leaky rear cover finally, and maybe break into other 1450 to pull engine for cradle mod and iso mounts. Has anyone done the hard mount swap? And did you like it?
 
Earl - hey glad to see you added the tag line. 1450's are really one of the best. I'll be interested to hear if anyone has done the solid mount conversion either using those solid metal ISO-mount dohickies, or eliminated the ISO bars and mounts all together and just mounted the engine directly onto the frame (which I think results in a minor re-alignment issue with the drive shaft. Maybe it's fixed by adding some flat stock spacers onto the frame to thicken it up similar to the 1x8/9 frame.

Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - I'm not letting you off the hook that easy. I'm waiting for you to tell me I'm absolutely correct.

And now for the rest of the story.

Jerry - thanks for your info. Yes my 169 had that pig tail wire from the negative battery cable to the V/R, but the pig tail never lasts and breaks away. Here's a couple pics of my 4 terminal V/R I took really quick before running off to work today. The 4th terminal all by itself is the GRD. Hard to see the wire attached to it, but instead of the pig tail, I used a short wire with the correct push-on connector for the V/R and then looped it and connected it to a Fender Pan to Frame bolt that's right there next to the V/R mount. You can barely see it on the right side of the 2nd pic below.

But Jerry, my real question is "how do you ground the V/R when your replacement V/R does not have a GRD terminal". The V/R mount is isolated by rubber spacers so you can't just run a ground wire to the mounts. And worse yet, Charlie's replacement V/Rs and every other one I've seen do NOT have the GRD terminal either.

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Hydro, you just want me to post that you are absolutely correct so you can quote me in your tag line.
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Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - well, that's partially correct. I would also like your thoughts on how you ground a V/R that does not have a GRD terminal.
 
I have several voltage regs that have a braided copper wire riveted to the mount that bridges the rubber mount. If it ever warms up in MN I'll dig one out and take a picture of it.
 
Harry,

From what I remember (this is from last summer) the 1x8/9 frame and the Quietline frame is slightly different in the engine area.

On the 1x8/9, there are flanges that come out from the bottom frame rail, toward the center-line of the tractor, this flange is what the engine bolts to.

On the Quietlines, this flange is not as large, and does not have the area to bolt the engine to. I am fairly sure, it you wanted to eliminate the Rubber ISO-Mounts, you would need to use the solid metal replacement mounts. To mount it like a 1x8/9, you would have to weld material to the frame to make a place for them to bolt. If I were going to eliminate the Rubber ISO-Mounts, I would go with the solid spacers, so everything lines up correctly.....

However, on both of mine, a have a good set of the original (70's) style Rubber ISO-Mounts. They work very well, and to make sure they survive, the cradle mod has been done to both of my quietlines, and Dad has done the mod to his quietlines also.... I wouldn't take the time to pull the engine and replace the ISO-Mounts and not do the cradle mod.....

Another "mod" that we do, is while the engine is out, we replace the axle pivot pin, with a "custom" bolt (Correct size bolt with the head ground down to clear the oil pan) and tighten the bolt, to remove most of the slop from the front axle, due to the C-Channel spreading over the years..... the 82 series have a bolt factory, but with the flat bottom engine, the clearance for the oil pan is not an issue........
 
I used the aftermarket mounts that Charlie sells on my 1250 and they work well. I did the cradle mod 4 years ago and did the top for bottom shift on the original mounts and used new steering stabilizer bushings on the top. Got 4 years until the old bushings collapsed. I used Charlie's mounts and put in a new driveshaft, flex discs, front bushing and mount, and a new bushing at the rear. It's smooth as silk now.
 
Kendall - I've seen that on some of the V/Rs.
Still wondering how you ground one that doesn't have that little braided wire on there.

Scott and Doug - thanks for the info on how you both have done it. I'm hoping we'll hear from someone that's gone to the solid metal ISO-mounts and someone that's gone to the direct to frame with the changes like Scott identified or similar.

Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - I'm still expecting to hear a little more from you too. And I did make a mod to my tag line, just as you suggested.
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Hmmmm, should I? --> <center>
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Hi Harry,

I have a thought- do the VR's that don't have a ground 'G' terminal ground themselves through the frame, since they are mounted to it?

Not sure if they do or don't, just a thought.
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here you go Harry,a picture of a v/r with a ground wire on the mounting leg.This is fine to use.

Looks like from the pic you supplied your missing the little black insulator on the frame where the wires come up for the regulator?

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Lewis, I have one like that too. Mine isn't nearly as nice as yours though and it's just about to fail.
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Not sure where this one came from, it's just a spare.

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I have another one that I had to repair the mounts because the rivets had worn out. I used screws and nuts. I also had to replace the ground wire. I used wire that is actually intended for hanging picture frames as it's nice and flexible.

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I really need to clean my Cub Cadet...
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Kraig,

I also have the one you wear on your wrist....

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Lewis, nice!
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