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anti seize on a K block

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Ken Black

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ok sitting watching vise grip G... and got to thinking.. anti seize on the head bolts near the exhust valve ???
what say you ??
 

digger

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ok sitting watching vise grip G... and got to thinking.. anti seize on the head bolts near the exhust valve ???
what say you ??
Head bolts will get hot enough to soften it. Anti-seize will lubricate head bolt threads, change the torque value, no way to really know how much torque is appropriate I wouldn't, but maybe Dave Kirk will see this thread and chime in, he's the expert. ;-)
 

bwstevens

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Malox ant acid on exhaust manifold hardware as it won't loosen up like never seize.
 

Ken Black

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Malox ant acid on exhaust manifold hardware as it won't loosen up like never seize.
on the manifold thats fine. iam speaking of the head bolts themselfs.

i kind of figured nothing can be really put on them. but one never knows these days with all the stuuuffffff that have on the shelfs ..
 

kphill

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To get proper torque spec, Threads should be clean with a light coating of motor oil.. This is how the original torque spec was rated..
 

Ken Black

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To get proper torque spec, Threads should be clean with a light coating of motor oil.. This is how the original torque spec was rated..
these are the bolts that go thru the head itself not the pipe for the exhust.

i was thinking for down the road. digger knows what i ment...
the exhust side head bolts get so hot they almost weld themselfs in ... was looking for something to save that from happening..
these are the bolts that go thru the head itself not the pipe for the exhust.
 

Greg Riutzel

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If they're gett'in hot enough to cause problems, there's an issue of why they got so hot either from a lean fuel mix or crudded cooling fins, or dirty threads.. I learned this on "T" block engines where the exhaust side can really super heat.

Personally I say no. If anti-seize other than recommended oil is used, you have to reduce torque up to 20%, so that's something to keep track of. All the heads I work on get their bolts wire wheeled, the block threads chased, and the top deck holes de-burred or slightly chamfered. That little extra effort keeps things like new.
 

mfrade

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I've taken all the same steps as Greg. Plus always added a "dab" of copper anti-sieze.
Never an issue, and never found it to throw the torque value way off.
If you are going to do 1 or 2, then do them all so it all stays even.
 

dkirk

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Thank you Charlie - I appreciate the compliment. Don't know if I qualify for the "expert" title but I always use Anti-Seize on head bolts, head studs and exhaust fitting threads. Provided initial lubrication for accurate torque values and I've never had a problem with removal after many running hours.
 

Ken Black

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Thank you Charlie - I appreciate the compliment. Don't know if I qualify for the "expert" title but I always use Anti-Seize on head bolts, head studs and exhaust fitting threads. Provided initial lubrication for accurate torque values and I've never had a problem with removal after many running hours.
i didnt think it was a big issue.. as long as you didnt put half a bottle on them lol.. just a nice thin coat.
for sure ty for confirming to Dave The Expert as Charlie labeled him lol
 

tkhoffman

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ok sitting watching vise grip G... and got to thinking.. anti seize on the head bolts near the exhust valve ???
what say you ??
I've used it on many other engine Heads. It appeared to help years later as I had to remove again. Air cooled engines... Torque number is not as critical as equal torque among all bolts. Of course you gotta be in the ballpark
 

kweimann

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I usually clean all threads with a thread chaser, Not a Tap, chamfer the top to remove the first thread to avoid pull-out, oil and torque the bolts, then run through 3 heat/cool cycles and check/re-torque as needed. My 0.02, I've built too many K-Series to count and all are still running.
 

Greg Riutzel

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Slik'um other than oil reduces the bolt torque needed but still gives the required clamp load and gasket crush. For our aluminum heads I think it's important. Here's what the manual sez in the note section:
Torque.jpg
 

Ken Black

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I usually clean all threads with a thread chaser, Not a Tap, chamfer the top to remove the first thread to avoid pull-out, oil and torque the bolts, then run through 3 heat/cool cycles and check/re-torque as needed. My 0.02, I've built too many K-Series to count and all are still running.
its no longer 2 cents. its now 6 cents hahhahah... with prices of things going up lol

i gotta grab few bolts to make some chasers. i would of thought oil would bake and make it like lock tight.
 

bwstevens

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Yes it turns to carbon . That is why brake fluid is used to push thin sleeves into blocks .
 

eberner

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When I was working on large military aircraft, the manual always said to liberally apply anti seize to the threads before setting the torque of a bolt. In fact if you couldn't get everything to line up at a specific torque setting we had to take it apart and apply more anti seize and tray again.
 
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I have always used anti-seize on head bolts. Never had an issue. The same torque that would be appropriate for oiled threads would be close enough for anti-seize as well.
Never use Antiseize on any Head Bolt !
Motor oil lubs the threads to give an accurate torque, and as mentioned before and acts somewhat like a thread locker.
Anti-seize will let the bolts back out as the engine heats up & cools down .
 

mgonitzke

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Never use Antiseize on any Head Bolt !
Motor oil lubs the threads to give an accurate torque, and as mentioned before and acts somewhat like a thread locker.
Anti-seize will let the bolts back out as the engine heats up & cools down .
<citation needed>
 

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