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9.5 horse Kawasaki troubleshooting

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kide

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Gerry Ide
Got a cart in the park with a 9.5 horse Kawasaki OHV. It has had numerous "mechanics" (read retired old farts with too much time on their hands) work on it.. I found a bad coil (about like a smaller Briggs, external to the flywheel, electronic trigger) and as the carb needed rebuilding, a replacement carb, since Club Car doesn't sell individual carb parts and the engine has a specific to Club Car spec #. Anyways, I've got it running pretty decent at idle and low speed, but the transition to high speed causes a stumble and surge like a too lean condition - the carb is a fixed jet (idle circuit is the only adjustment and the float is non-adjustable). I've run through the common problems (vent tube is OK, the carb to head spacers and gaskets are all sealed OK). I'm running out of ideas - the next thing to check is to pull the rocker cover and check valve lash - I can hypothesize that if the valve s were just barley opening it would act as if it were overcarburated (not flowing enough air through the carb when the throttle plate opens up, which will cause a lean stumble). Other than that, I might have to pull the flywheel and check to see if the key has been sheared, but I don't think that would give me the symptoms I've got.

These small Kaw singles are used in a lot of 4 wheelers, etc. - anyone got experience with 'em ?? (my first brush at all is with the one in MY Club Car that I got this summer)
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retired old farts with too much time on their hands
Who's from Michigan, retired, and in Florida?
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Oh, now I remember!
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Frank - I don't have too much time on my hands <font size="-2"> (other than that, ummmm well I guess if the shoe fits, I gotta wear it</font>)
 
Gerry Ide

I will check in the am; but I think my snapper snow blower has a 9.5 Kawasaki engine .
 
Gerry i had the same problem with a Yahama engine on a golf cart. Called the shop for a carb kit and spark plug and he said o k, but If you will spray one half can of gumout carb cleaner thru the carb orfices, then put the other half in a gallon of gas, Then just drive it. I done that and after about 3 miles it was running perfect. He specified Gumout carb cleaner. He said it would disolve the varnish from where the untreated gasoline had sit in it to long. I hope this helps.
 
Luther - note - new carb....... Thanks for trying anyways !!!!
 
I was sure Dennis would have some ideas ..
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Does the lean stumble get better or go away once the engine is warmed up or does it remain? Those emissions carbs can be stubborn. Does the carb use a fuel solenoid for shutdown? You want to insure that it is retracting fully. You could bench test it putting 12vdc to it. If it becomes too hot to hold it is most likely beginning to degrade and fail.Since the solenoid closes the main jet it becomes critical to performance. (Now I know that not all the 9.5s used a solenoid, depending on spec. so this may/maynot be relevent)

Some times there is nothing legal to do to the emissions carbs that'll really eliminate the stumble. If it were allowed, slightly drilling the main jet would have been a suggestion, but we both know that isn't acceptable
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Gerry,

Is that an FE290 series engine? I've noted lots of ignitor replacements on the smaller HP Kawasaki engines. They cause all sorts of strange running issues such as a poor hsnl condition. They can mimic the carb problems but in reality are an ignition problem. So that may be another item to consider, the ignitor is a known issue.
 
GERRY - I've never been around a Kawasaki engine other than some 40 yr old 2-stroke motorcycles.

Is there a chance a K241 Kohler would fit?
 
I had a Ransomes/ Bobcat 48" walk behind with a 12.5 hp FB460 Kawy. it was an awesome & trouble free
engine, but that model was from 1980's. Maintenance was oil ,oil & air filters, & sharpen blades.
Broke recoil rope just before sold it. Used it from early 80's until '06.
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Jim D: No solenoid , it is an FE290 (2000 Club Car CarryAll). New fuel system, including both filters, the fuel pump (verified working) annd all new gas lines. New Carb, New 1 piece ignitor assy, properly gapped from flywheel.. Swapped to original carb, actually runs better (see my original post for reason for new carb). A desperation move may be to pull the carb off mine to see what difference there is. Only thing I have noticed is quite a bit of intake reversion, (almost visible gas standoff like an old two stroke go-cart engine) again making me suspicious of the valves.. I can't get back to it until next week now, will pull rocker cover and check valve lash and lift....
 
Fixed..... after reviewing everything and also checking valve clearance... While I had a hard time understanding why it would need it - we're at sea level here is the only possible reason - the cure was to drill the main jet in the Keihin carb out to .0375 (.095 mm) from about .0310 (.080 mm) . No more surging, smooth from dead idle to WOT.... Happy, Happy, Happy park manager
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