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782D journey

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I replaced the aftermarket engine to deck belt with this:
s-l1600.jpg
 
I have a 782 d that always has problems starting because battery is not strong enough how do you get a larger battery installed also what can you do to upgrade your glow plug to help the engine start faster
 
Cray...,
Check out the first post on this thread, then read all posts carefully. 1811 does great work-did I just read that?
 
I used the gear reduction starter with a 350CCA garden tractor battery. The glow plugs are the modern NGK 12v replacements using a Motorcraft glow plug relay from a 1983 Ford F250 6.9 diesel truck to power them. I drove it to the local gas station yesterday to fill the tank, which is about a quarter mile away. Anyway, it hadn't been started in about a month. I operated the glow plugs for 20 seconds since the ambient temp in my garage at that time was 55 degrees. It started immediately.

Now a friend of mine uses a Deka battery rated at over 400CCA in his 782D with the original starter.
 
I used the gear reduction starter with a 350CCA garden tractor battery. The glow plugs are the modern NGK 12v replacements using a Motorcraft glow plug relay from a 1983 Ford F250 6.9 diesel truck to power them. I drove it to the local gas station yesterday to fill the tank, which is about a quarter mile away. Anyway, it hadn't been started in about a month. I operated the glow plugs for 20 seconds since the ambient temp in my garage at that time was 55 degrees. It started immediately.

Now a friend of mine uses a Deka battery rated at over 400CCA in his 782D with the original starter.
Does the relay get wired differently than the existing one is the new glow plugs any different than the old ones are there one to one replacement and I guess you have to use this relay for the new glow plugs
 
Does the relay get wired differently than the existing one is the new glow plugs any different than the old ones are there one to one replacement and I guess you have to use this relay for the new glow plugs
In stock form, there is no glow plug relay. All of the glow plug circuit current is run through the switch, and the dash glow plug indicator is a built in resistor for the circuit to get the voltage down to 9V to run the OE glow plugs. The new updated NGK glow plugs are made to run off full battery voltage, and the relay allows more current to run them versus running the current through the key switch. This extends the key switch life dramatically, since the internal contacts don't arc nearly as much. Side benefit is quicker starting since these glow plugs are hotter and get hotter quicker.
 
I'm finally addressing the moderate vibration plaguing this machine since I bought it. I have purchased a new 738-3051 driveshaft, all 4 722-3000 flexible disc couplings, and 941-3004 oilite bushing and all new spirol pins 715-3000. Upon disassembly, the rear oilite bushing was sloppy, but intact. The driveshaft was severely worn on the engine end, and the oilite bushing on the crank coupler was destroyed and mostly missing. This definitely caused the vibration. All of the flexible disc couplings were dry rotted and distorted. One of the spirol pins was cracked and about to fail.

Here is the crank coupler with what is left of the bushing:

782DBUSHING.jpg


The rear pump coupler with a new bushing installed:

782DBUSHING2.jpg



More to come. Waiting on the pins and a bushing for the crank coupler.
 
I thought about it. For the easy life this tractor will have during my ownership, the original setup will work fine. The most it does is mow the yard every few weeks.
 
That relay should do what you need. That is the glow plug relay for A 7.3 IDI Ford/IH Diesel. That powers 8 glow plugs for ~10-15 seconds… the 3 for your 782D should be a cake walk.

(One of my other hobbies is Ford Diesels, so I recognize that by sight… lol)
Did you wire the new relay through the key switch or did you install a separate spring loaded switch for it
 
Initially, I pulled out the insert easily with a pick. It was an interference fit, albeit a bit loose. Upon installation, I staked the aluminum cover with a punch to prevent the check ball and insert from popping out. Theory is that at some point when the filter was being replaced, the spring pressure popped the insert out, and the ball was lost. When a previous owner put the spring back in and the insert, they might have not known about the check ball. Then when the engine was started, the oil light was illuminated. When they couldn't figure it out, they disconnected the oil switch, and the light was out.. Obviously not a good way to "fix" the issue. The mere fact that this engine survived this long is a testament to the Kubota design. I really don't think any damage was done to it. There was no glitter in the oil, and no weird noises to suggest bearing damage. A oil pressure reading will prove this. Next project is the glow plug system upgrade.
My oil lite is out us to come on when I started the engine now it stays out how. Do I troubleshoot it
 
Did you wire the new relay through the key switch or did you install a separate spring loaded switch for it
It is wired through the original key switch. You must bypass the original dash resistor indicator, which is super easy to do. Simply remove one of the wires, and install that wire on the other lug and tighten the nut. The existing orange wire under the hood connected to the forward glow plug is removed from the glow plug and placed on the new glow plug relay.
 
My oil lite is out us to come on when I started the engine now it stays out how. Do I troubleshoot it
Typically, the bulb fails. If the bulb checks out, then you can take the lead at the oil pressure switch on the block, and ground the lead. The bulb should be illuminated at that point. If it does not the wiring or connections are bad. If the bulb does light during the testing, and not when the key on engine off, the oil pressure switch is bad. Kubota still sells them.
 
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