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782 How is Engine grounded to Chassis?

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tkhoffman

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2013
Messages
624
Location
Northern NEW YORK
displayname
Tony Hoffman
Still chasing down my slow crank issue seen here..https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/22774/314937.html?1495544712
I am trouble shooting it down to be likely the Starter but before the major job of pulling it I am exhausting all options. The wiring from key to Solenoid to starter is a few years old. I did it and all wire gauges were upgraded and all connectors were soldered and crimped. So the only wiring I can think of that I did not touch is a wire from the engine Block to the negative on the battery. Is the engine grounded to the Frame thru the Motor mounts or is there a specific grounding wire that might be strong enough to keep the engine running but not good enough for the return path of the Starter?
 
If you've recently repainted the unit you may in fact have that very issue, I did. I ended up using a piece of 00 welding cable with 5/16 terminals and ran a ground from the seat support where it was grounded to the frame and ran a ground strap to the engine mounting feet.

BUT that may not be your issue, best to run a jumper (as in just simply your jumper cables) from the negative stud on the battery to the engine block.
 
That's what I did recently. Ran Jumper cable from neg on battery to Intake manifold. Same issue.
Just got a Starter. If it's not that,I'm lost. known good batter, Literally put my Wrench across the Starter solenoid to bypass that. and Starter still engages fast and hard but grunts as it tries to crank the motor. The only thing left is dirty commutator connections to the Brushes or worn brushes. Replacing the Starter in this Double Lung Engine looks rough. I am guessing I need to unbolt the Engine mounting plate from the Frame and lift the engine up and out a bit.
 
Tony: Yes. Unbolting the engine (or the mounting plate) and lifting the engine up an inch or so allows you to fish the starter out. It is a bit of a PITA but I got quite accomplished at it when I was having trouble with my starter. I don't recall unbolting the drive shaft, but it may be a good precaution if you're concerned. (I wound up buying a new starter to solve the problem.) Good luck!
smile.gif
 
Put the new Starter in. All is well. The Starter I took out had a Drive gear with a rubber bottom attached.A separate metal disc rides up and causes friction traction. Basically it acts as a clutch but it dries and and loses traction over time. The growling I was hearing was slipping. The new one has a One Piece Drive gear. No Rubber, no slippage.
 

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