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mpatterson

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
1,216
Location
Ontario, Canada
displayname
Mike Patterson
How much front to back play should there be on the shaft coming from the back gearbox (next to tractor that drive belt goes on) and the gearbox at the front that turns auger? This is the shaft that the fan is bolted to. I replaced the worn out too small bolt that PO had in it. But there is still front to back play allowing fan to scrub housing on the one paddle. How is this shift kept in place inside boxes? Clip, key, set screw?
Didn't want to strip boxes off if bo need to.
What is in the auger gearbox, grease or oil? Let me rephrase that, what is supposed to be in it?
 

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Going to assume this is a bit more wear on the splinned fan than wanted??
 

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If I recall Art Atay had a similar problem a few years back. Search the Archives. Hope this helps.
 
Only place I have found is Surplus Centre for that coupler that Art used. Of course, its in USA and before customs, it will cost me almost $50 US funds to get me 3 of them to my door with UPS (cheapest way)! OMG! Isn't anything stocked in Canada anymore!!! :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant: :rant:
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Nice fine Ed!!
Will see what they will charge me!
I'm thinking by looking at their chart I'd want the AX-875-13 coupler to match up with the one that Art found at the Surplus Centre? If I read the chart correctly it will be 1/4" longer than the one Art found which is always welcome!?? Only thing that I don't know is what does the "Z" stand for in measurement A? :drool2:
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So I split the auger gearbox today. Other than it seems like it needs more lube, looks pretty normal???
Anyone see any problems?
 

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🤦‍♂️
Looks like clip groove is messed up, that is why the shaft moves front to back more than it should. Guess a new shaft is needed.:censored2:
 

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Anyone ever have their groove that the clip rides in screw up? What would cause that to wear like that, excessive stress, feeding ice chunks and snow way too fast? Age? Just plain worn out??
 
So I split the auger gearbox today. Other than it seems like it needs more lube, looks pretty normal???
Anyone see any problems?
Your gearbox fried for lack of the correct grease. The manual calls for Bentonite grease and from the looks of yours, it had axle grease in it. Corn head grease works well but not as good.
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Your gearbox fried for lack of the correct grease. The manual calls for Bentonite grease and from the looks of yours, it had axle grease in it. Corn head grease works well but not as good.
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Well doesn't that suck a big one!
So the wrong grease helped muck up the snap ring too and make it wear the shaft and allow the worm gear to "walk" on the shaft?

So just what exactly does the Thrust Bearing on the auger shaft do? #69 in the diagram. Mine looks like a washer with a bunch of small ball bearings in it, hardly any thickness to it at all. I'm guessing it was supposed to keep pressure on the gear? IF so, not really sure how the little balls would do such a thing, but then again, what the heck do I know!
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as the input worm gear (68) turns the output worm gear (54) resists the turning. this forces the input worm gear (68) towards the back of the gearbox- the thrust bearing reduces the friction of this force against the gearbox housing (turns sliding friction into rolling friction which is much lower ) and probably there are two thrust plates(flat washer) in there providing a smooth surface for the trust bearing to spin against on both sides of the thrust bearing
 
as the input worm gear (68) turns the output worm gear (54) resists the turning. this forces the input worm gear (68) towards the back of the gearbox- the thrust bearing reduces the friction of this force against the gearbox housing (turns sliding friction into rolling friction which is much lower ) and probably there are two thrust plates(flat washer) in there providing a smooth surface for the trust bearing to spin against on both sides of the thrust bearing
Ahhhhh.... well that make sense! Yes, there is a washer on either side of the thrust bearing. So as long as all the balls turn freely and don't seem to be ready to fall out - then the bearing is still likely good, and won't need replacing? Or is that one of those things you just replace while in there?
 
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if there is no pitting and they are still all there you can just clean it and put it back the real smooth(almost polished) side of the washer goes next to the bearing the other side goes against the worm gear and the housing- I would replace the seals, cork gasket, and I think there are two sleeve bearings and two flange bearings on the shafts they might be worn excessively. if there is too much radial play it will destroy the seals in no time, then all your grease comes out of the gearbox again! once you're done then fill to the proper level with the correct grease.
 
you can check with Charlie, he may have all the parts as a set to rebuild this. I have found some of the stuff has become crappy at the dealer and Charlie still gets the high quality original stuff - typically for a few dollars less then the dealer charges!
 
Yes, two of the sleeve bearings are worn in a weird way, so will replace all them. The cork seal on the gearbox looks like it was installed recently, its in very good shape other than the colour. Its not all dried out and falling apart. Its nice and pliable. I agree though, for the price of it, should replace it.
Anyone know if I can get that grease from IH dealership? Or does it have to come from Cub?
Is it okay to use brake clean or solvent from a parts washer on the thrust bearing to clean it up? If I blow it off good with compressed air afterwards, it won't thin the grease at all?
 
you can check with Charlie, he may have all the parts as a set to rebuild this. I have found some of the stuff has become crappy at the dealer and Charlie still gets the high quality original stuff - typically for a few dollars less then the dealer charges!
I swear Charlie has his own manufacturing business in one of those rooms, he just won't own up to it! I say his wife's business is a front! :wedgie:
 
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