-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
450 snow blower refurb
- Thread starter dtanner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Don, are you planning on planting the freshly tilled area right away? If you're not going to plant the area for a month or two, place a sheet of clear plastic over the area and seal the edges down with soil and place a few lengths of 2x4 on it to keep the wind from lifting it. This will kill weed seeds, insects and soil diseases. It's called solarizing the soil. Do a web search for more specific instructions.
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
Great idea ! I have some covers I use for my wood and could use them to kill the grass. I will put that idea to work as soon as the snow is gone.
I don`t like using chemicals on a food plot. I think we eat enuf of them in the prosed food we buy !
Great idea ! I have some covers I use for my wood and could use them to kill the grass. I will put that idea to work as soon as the snow is gone.
I don`t like using chemicals on a food plot. I think we eat enuf of them in the prosed food we buy !
mgonitzke
Well-known member
What Tom said...That's what I did when we moved our garden. Put the Brinly on the 582, plowed it, waited a couple weeks, then tilled it.
glippert
Well-known member
Don - I wish I could find my dad's old cream separator. I'd like to clean it up and turn it into a "water feature". Two spouts trickling water into a concealed catch basin, then pumped back up into the tank. But, alas, I suspect my sister did something with it during the years I was living other places, in the Air Force. I guess it was as much hers as mine, so what the heck.
Well guys looking at the shaft on the back gear box I see it might be messed up.So it will have to be replaced I think. that makes me think I should cobble this using a slip spline stock that I have on hand and see if it will work. I will cut off the shaft from the back gear box and weld on the bigger size spline and weld the smaller piece of spline to the rear auger inside the thrower. Can`t hurt because the rear blower auger is $145.00 on CCS.
Can`t hurt because its all junk now lol.It just might work so my welder says.
Can`t hurt because its all junk now lol.It just might work so my welder says.
Tom Hoffman
what did you need for pictures on the seperator? its a junior #4 made by De Laval Co Ltd Canada,Something to see that made in Canada decal,as you all know there ain`t much made in our countries any more.
what did you need for pictures on the seperator? its a junior #4 made by De Laval Co Ltd Canada,Something to see that made in Canada decal,as you all know there ain`t much made in our countries any more.
DONALD - I looked at the exploded parts view of the 450 in the look-up above. I'm not at all familiar with the 450. I'm not real sure which shaft that actually is. If the impeller goes on that smaller diameter I don't think I would cut that shaft and try to butt-weld another shaft onto the end of it. It's a very difficult weld, hard to get full penetration on, hard to keep straight, if the impeller does go on it it turns at high RPM and has a lot of torque.
Before I'd cut the shaft I'd try to make a steel bushing if the splines are totally gone to go between the impeller hub and shaft. Weld the very end of the shaft, bushing, & hub. A little bit of weld like that can transmit a LOT of torque. With all the wild forces acting on the impeller if it wobbles or get the least bit loose it will wear away both the hub & shaft.
Before I'd cut the shaft I'd try to make a steel bushing if the splines are totally gone to go between the impeller hub and shaft. Weld the very end of the shaft, bushing, & hub. A little bit of weld like that can transmit a LOT of torque. With all the wild forces acting on the impeller if it wobbles or get the least bit loose it will wear away both the hub & shaft.
jdiederichs
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2004
- Messages
- 659
- displayname
- Jim Diederichs
Hi Don,
I am with Dennis Frisk on the shaft issue, I also looked at the 450 parts illustration as well as my prior experiences with the 450 and cannot identify the shaft shown in your picture. Is the splined area on the exterior or inside the shaft? I see the 3(?) splines on the larger shaft diameter. Isn’t the impeller pinned to that shaft with spiral pins? I do not recall them being splined.
I have a model 551 on my diesel, the newer design so I can’t look at it to see what you have. Wish I could understand more the nature of the problem. Perhaps having more pictures we could help you.
If you could show the mating part to that shaft and so forth it would be helpful.
I am with Dennis Frisk on the shaft issue, I also looked at the 450 parts illustration as well as my prior experiences with the 450 and cannot identify the shaft shown in your picture. Is the splined area on the exterior or inside the shaft? I see the 3(?) splines on the larger shaft diameter. Isn’t the impeller pinned to that shaft with spiral pins? I do not recall them being splined.
I have a model 551 on my diesel, the newer design so I can’t look at it to see what you have. Wish I could understand more the nature of the problem. Perhaps having more pictures we could help you.
If you could show the mating part to that shaft and so forth it would be helpful.
JIM - I scratched my head on those three splines too. Something to make sure you headed back to CC for parts I'm sure!
Don't like the idea of the end of that shaft being bored out either.
All I see there when you mention welding anything on that shaft is problems!
Where that shaft changes diameter and the three splines on the smaller diameter bottom out on the end of the larger diameter, you have an inside corner with two flat planes and a radius. Granted there will be a small radius between the small diameter and the end face but I can hear many many machining manufacturing engineers saying, "Yes, looks simple enough on a CAD screen but it's IMPOSSIBLE to machine economically!".
JIM - At least you've seen a #450 before!
Don't like the idea of the end of that shaft being bored out either.
All I see there when you mention welding anything on that shaft is problems!
Where that shaft changes diameter and the three splines on the smaller diameter bottom out on the end of the larger diameter, you have an inside corner with two flat planes and a radius. Granted there will be a small radius between the small diameter and the end face but I can hear many many machining manufacturing engineers saying, "Yes, looks simple enough on a CAD screen but it's IMPOSSIBLE to machine economically!".
JIM - At least you've seen a #450 before!
Ed W ,Dennis F , Jim D
That shaft (slip spline )Is from an Oil truck pto shaft to the pump to unload the truck at your house . It will take a bunch of hp to twist it ,I cut a section about 2" long and that will be plenty for length. Gear box to the back of the blower case is 1 7/8" and it is 3/4" from the case outside to the back of the rear impeller. I will have to shorten one end to get what I will need to have some movement for the gear box and the impeller.The smaller piece of the slip spline will slide right into the rear impeller in the blower and it will also slide over the gear box shaft.I think I will have the larger stock welded to the impeller and have the smaller welded to the spline end on the gear box. I want to see what will happen.I will have it welded so they will be straight (square ). The spline end of the gear box is in bad shape and well would need to be replaced anyway so. It was suggested that I could key the shaft on the gear box to hit the 3 areas on the shaft and slip spline and use aluminum keys to protect the gear box (breaking point). All ideas welcome ! Don T
That shaft (slip spline )Is from an Oil truck pto shaft to the pump to unload the truck at your house . It will take a bunch of hp to twist it ,I cut a section about 2" long and that will be plenty for length. Gear box to the back of the blower case is 1 7/8" and it is 3/4" from the case outside to the back of the rear impeller. I will have to shorten one end to get what I will need to have some movement for the gear box and the impeller.The smaller piece of the slip spline will slide right into the rear impeller in the blower and it will also slide over the gear box shaft.I think I will have the larger stock welded to the impeller and have the smaller welded to the spline end on the gear box. I want to see what will happen.I will have it welded so they will be straight (square ). The spline end of the gear box is in bad shape and well would need to be replaced anyway so. It was suggested that I could key the shaft on the gear box to hit the 3 areas on the shaft and slip spline and use aluminum keys to protect the gear box (breaking point). All ideas welcome ! Don T
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
If you weld on that shaft, it's going to warp and give you all sorts of problems. If the warped shaft wrecks a bunch of other stuff, it'll be more expensive than just using the correct replacement parts. There is a time and place to come up with your own solution, but when the correct OEM parts are still available, it is not the time. If it were mine I would take the plunge and buy the correct parts.
If you weld on that shaft, it's going to warp and give you all sorts of problems. If the warped shaft wrecks a bunch of other stuff, it'll be more expensive than just using the correct replacement parts. There is a time and place to come up with your own solution, but when the correct OEM parts are still available, it is not the time. If it were mine I would take the plunge and buy the correct parts.
Dennis Frisk , Jim Diederichs
Guys I will take a few pictures Monday and try to explain more what happened and what I see might work as well as the factory set up . I will need to take the blower apart first so you can see what I`am planning . CCS , Charlie sell the rear impeller for $145.00 and I have not looked to see what the gear box spline end would cost.I `am willing to bet this could cost with shipping or $350.00 to get this repaired correctly (oem).
Guys I will take a few pictures Monday and try to explain more what happened and what I see might work as well as the factory set up . I will need to take the blower apart first so you can see what I`am planning . CCS , Charlie sell the rear impeller for $145.00 and I have not looked to see what the gear box spline end would cost.I `am willing to bet this could cost with shipping or $350.00 to get this repaired correctly (oem).
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Guys, If the repair costs $350, aren't we getting into a prohibitive area? I see snowblower attachments on the web going for $250 tops.
Is there something special about the 450? I've read all of Don's posts, he certainly has a lot time and money invested, but maybe he needs to be looking for a blower from which he can salvage parts.
Just saying . . .
Is there something special about the 450? I've read all of Don's posts, he certainly has a lot time and money invested, but maybe he needs to be looking for a blower from which he can salvage parts.
Just saying . . .
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jeremiah-
The 2-stage units go for more than that. Last year, one on epay went for ~$1200 (ridiculous) and they routinely bring $500+. He's also in Canada, so you can probably double our prices for him, at least for some stuff. After he posts some pictures we'll hopefully have a clearer idea of what the situation looks like.
The 2-stage units go for more than that. Last year, one on epay went for ~$1200 (ridiculous) and they routinely bring $500+. He's also in Canada, so you can probably double our prices for him, at least for some stuff. After he posts some pictures we'll hopefully have a clearer idea of what the situation looks like.
I took a few pictures today of what I`am think I should try to repair my 450 snow blower.
the slip spline pieces 2" long
here is the impeller where the spline is missing.
the gear box damage to the shaft.
Where the larger spline will be welded to the drum.
A little filling and this will slide over the shaft on the gear box.
I don`t know if this will work ! I have hopes it will ,because I will not be able to get parts to do the correct repair this winter $$$. Please don`t
me because I`am not doing a proper repair not OEM.it just won`t help me have a 450 snow blower to use. I hope you all understand what i`am going to attempt here . thanks Don T
the slip spline pieces 2" long
here is the impeller where the spline is missing.
the gear box damage to the shaft.
Where the larger spline will be welded to the drum.
A little filling and this will slide over the shaft on the gear box.
I don`t know if this will work ! I have hopes it will ,because I will not be able to get parts to do the correct repair this winter $$$. Please don`t
DONALD - That could actally work. When I worked at the machine tool company a design & engineering compant made a tapered drive coupling with very similar geometery. If the two pcs fit real snug there shouldn't be much wobbling to wear away the two parts.
Similar threads
Tractor For Sale
1440 with 451 snow blower
