Kirk Engines, Inc Cub Cadet Used Parts CADET CONNECTION Cub Cadet Specialties Cub Cadet Specialties

42 in deck

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

RAllison

***
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 26, 2021
Messages
758
Location
LaPorte IN 46350
The manual doesn't really show much about it,but it doesn't show any pins either...so I may just weld the new one in. Or if I really wanted to get crazy I could thread the ends and put nuts and lockwashers on to hold it.
 

mfrade

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2000
Messages
2,183
Location
New Bedford, MA
displayname
Mike Frade
Does anyone know if that shaft that holds the tensioner pulleys is supposed to be welded in place,seems a lot easier to pin so you can take it out
Do you mean the pulleys that swivel on the mule drive? You can see them in the top pic on last page, If so, then yes that shaft was welded in from the factory. I've ground off the welds and remade the shaft on my 73, the brackets suspending those pulley had worn into the shaft, so I used some tube to sleeve through the brackets and mounted onto a new shaft, More area to spread the loading. I was going to drill and tap the shaft then bolt it in... but I simply rewelded it in.
 

RAllison

***
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 26, 2021
Messages
758
Location
LaPorte IN 46350
Yep,that would be the shaft,I'm gonna weld the new one back in. That's a good idea with the bushings in the worn holes.
 

mfrade

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2000
Messages
2,183
Location
New Bedford, MA
displayname
Mike Frade
Yep,that would be the shaft,I'm gonna weld the new one back in. That's a good idea with the bushings in the worn holes.
It was easy to do with a vertical mill, and I found the tube in the scrap bucket.. so what the heck. made a world of difference too. stopped the belt being tossed off every few hours.
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
4,140
displayname
Harry Bursell
Well Robert - something just doesn't seem right to me with your whole process. To me, your lever should'a worked without having that interference. I looked back at your previous pics and I'm wondering about something:
Your PTO appears to be the early style that is suppose to have the triangle springs with the little 90degree bends on the ends. But, in the pics it looks like you used the newer style triangle springs that have flat ends.
If this is what you did (newer style springs on early style PTO) then it could be why you wore out your graphite button on one use, and why you really have to force your lever and the button hard against the PTO.
When the PTO is operating properly it really hardly requires very little pressure from the button (and why the button lasts a long time).
Can you post a couple more pics of the front of your PTO so we can see ends of the springs???
(Hopefully Kraig doesn't call me ole Eagle Eye for nothing).
 

RAllison

***
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 26, 2021
Messages
758
Location
LaPorte IN 46350
Harry I did use the right spring with the90° bends and I never had to force that lever it worked nice and smooth. I think I smoked that button cause I didn't have the gap set right. I kept fooling with it cause it kept coming out of tolerance only to figure out my turn buckle was stripping out on one end.
0730211648_Film1.jpg
0730211647_Film1.jpg
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
4,140
displayname
Harry Bursell
Well, ok on the turnbuckle, but looking at your pic, it looks like one end of the triangle spring is on the outside of the cast PTO housing, and the metal center button is set with the 3 ears way up high. I'm thinking there is something wrong with the assembly of your PTO. Those 3 ears and the button just should not be up that high. I'm wondering if you used the right gauge to measure the settings? (There are 2 styles of gauges, 1 for early style and 1 for newer style).
 

RAllison

***
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 26, 2021
Messages
758
Location
LaPorte IN 46350
The paint is chipped on the housing giving it the appearance that its on the outside in the pic,the ears are sitting in there the same as on my 127,I used the tool to set the spring. Really there's not much room in there for them to sit any other way that I can see.
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
4,140
displayname
Harry Bursell
Boy, sometimes pics really do have a confluence of shadows. That spring sure looks like it's on the outside.

Well Robert - any chance you want to pop your PTO off and take a pic of the backside so we can see the 3 double-nuts and how far the threads of the 3 screws are thru the nuts. That will tell me nearly for certain if the PTO is assembled and adjusted correctly.
(I noticed it appears you used 2 new screws and 1 old one).
 

RAllison

***
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 26, 2021
Messages
758
Location
LaPorte IN 46350
Sure,I'll pop it off. Want to hear something funny? When I took the pics I was just putting it on,it was just sitting on there! :feint:
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
4,140
displayname
Harry Bursell
Hmmmmmm

Here's my observations:
Looks like you used an aftermarket extra thick fiber disc. It should be an issue.
Normally, according to the install instructions, the threads of the 3 screws should be exposed about evenly. Since you used 1 older screw (and it appears to show less or no threads) it does raise a question to me. However, when I look at your new pic of the front the ears appear to be correct.
So, ole Eagle Eye seems to have failed (again). Your PTO is probably fine.
 

RAllison

***
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 26, 2021
Messages
758
Location
LaPorte IN 46350
It seems to be working fine Harry,I'll know more tomorrow when I finish putting the pulleys and belt back on and mow with it.
 
Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
4,140
displayname
Harry Bursell
Robert - to late for me to edit my last post. I really should proof read them before I hit the button. It was supposed to say the thick fiber disk should "not" be a problem.
And as for my eyes - maybe you missed it. My post says "Ole Eagle Eye" (meaning one of them is better than the other :cool: )
 

Latest posts

Top