Or just jump 12v directly to where the blue wire is with a small gauge wire to crank the engine. Another wire from 12v to + side of coil. Shouldn't that bypass everything?Taylor, that is not ignition coil.That is starter and solenoid...The red connector is where I said you have to jump a positive to make starter engage.The larger red cable is the post you jump from battery with pos. because you will have switch unhooked.....
Haha, touché! Electrical is not my forte, but I gotta learn it! I knew what the starter looked like but was confused by the solenoid which looks the same shape as the ignition coil based on the drawing (and location) in the service manual. I'll find the coil and post a picture.I'm a bit concerned...If you don't know the difference between coil and starter,you're going to need help or study a breakdown of engine parts
Great question. It definitely sounds like it has been shut off, as opposed to being starved for fuel. I have verified the pump is working awesome—plenty of fuel getting to the carb.If I'm understanding correctly, it fires and starts when in the start position but when you release the key switch from the start position and it goes to the run position, that's when it starts to die on you? Does it act like it has just been shut off or does it act like it's starving for fuel and then dies. I'm thinking when you release the switch to the run position, it is grounding the kill wire. I was thinking it could also be losing power to the fuel solenoid on the carb but if that's the case then your new fuel pump would lose power too since it's tied into the same wire.
So ... after watching some YouTube videos, it seems like the ignition coil is behind (underneath?) this shroud?Taylor post a pic of rear of engine,shroud.
Already checked the oil, no gas present. Later determined that gas was seeping out from under the rubber seal of the low tank level sensor on top of the gas tank. Already fixed, replaced, cleaned. Also oil change.If the gas all disappeared from the tank? You might want to check the oil and make sure it didn’t pump it into the engine
Thanks Gary. I'll leave the kill wire be for the time being and work on testing the ignition switch first (by jumping the starter).Well Taylor,JP is right ..IF you have to change coil that's where it is...BUT you said it ran so coil was working then.....Back up and read how to unhook harness,use jumper wires to prove if it's your ign. switch OR grounded/shorted kill wire..I explained all that in detail...I still think your shorted battery is the basis of your problem but you have to prove one element at a time....
That's right. I guess even though I'm looking at a service manual for the 2084, some of these schematics are from other models.the schematic you sent says 2182 on the bottom not 2185
Gary any reason I couldn't just take the ignition switch out and test the prongs with a multimeter? Would that be as effective a test as trying the disconnect and jump off the battery method?.I still think your shorted battery is the basis of your problem but you have to prove one element at a time....
Taylor, originally you didn't bother to mention melted terminals so I thought it was grounded wire, broken wire ,something quite easy to prove. I'm only writing based on experience that you don't have for all I know you could have several burned wires...You said you were NOT good at electrical.Do you know how to test all connectors of a switch.? You also said you made an app't to have your cub at a repair shop.Instead of asking the test switch question you could have found the answer on your computer and followed up.Nothing personal but I think you need to take it somewhere that knows how to test wiring... good luck....I really mean that and hope it's not major...Gary any reason I couldn't just take the ignition switch out and test the prongs with a multimeter? Would that be as effective a test as trying the disconnect and jump off the battery method?
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