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1811 trouble

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Kittermankadets85

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 25, 2020
Messages
110
Location
Corydon IN
Ok so I’ve racked my brain on this one... aside from just tearing down the engine I want to see if anyone else has had this problem.

tractor runs great until it gets hot then it starts to cut out and die I originallythought the coil but it’s not loosing spark it’s not getting gas. Fuel pump is pumping carb is clean and adjusted properly filters not dirty it’s the damndist thing I’ve ever seen. I’m thinking maybe it dropping compression like a leaking head gasket but wanted to pole the audience lol
 

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It’s not loosing spark... and it doesn’t have point so it doesn’t have a condenser like that I can spray gas into carb and it will run
 
OK. So I wasn’t sure if it was a typo...... so you are saying it has a gas flow issue. Try and run it with the gas cap loose, or off, and see if the issue persists. The stock cap/gauge has a vent hole in it to allow air to replace the consumed fuel in the tank. If you have an incorrect, unvented cap, or the little hole in the factory cap is plugged, the consumption of fuel will draw a slight vacuum on the tank and stop fuel flow. The engine dies, and over time air can “leak” into the tank, and it will run until the vacuum is back.... vicious frustrating cycle.......
 
I have had rubber fuel line go bad inside and cause the same issue. I looked new outside
but was like mush inside. I think it colapsed inside while running and starved the engine.
 
there is probably a mouse nest built up around the coil pack. Have you been running the tractor with
ethanol free gas? That corn gas will destroy a carb. My track vac did the same thing with a brigs on it. Ran good till hot then sputter backfire and quit. checked the spark good. Gravity fed fuel ran through the carb drain bowl no problem. Bowl clean. It ended up being a spark plug; but then again it was a one cyl engine. But my 1810 did what yours was doing and it was the mouse nest around the coil.
 
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Engine runs fine then stops when hot, then repeats, can be very difficult to diagnose. Sometimes it might be attributed to fuel or electrical problems, but every once and awhile, it turns out to be mechanical.

Sometimes, carbon will build up in the exhaust valve guide reducing the diameter of the guide bore. When the engine gets hot, the valve guide bore expands; further reducing the diameter of the bore till it grips the valve stem and prevents it from moving back to the seated position. This will cause the engine to backfire (thru the exhaust) many times till it stops running. At this point, if you try to re-start the engine, it will spin over very easy and faster than usual but will not start. This is due to the fact that the valve is being held open preventing the engine from building any compression. Although it may give you some really loud backfires thru the exhaust

After the engine cools down, the valve guide bore shrinks, reducing its grip on the valve stem. The valve returns to the seated position, compression is restored and the engine will once again run, until the engine gets hot enough to repeat the cycle over again.

The only way to fix this is to remove the valve and ream out the guide removing the built up carbon. It can be very difficult to remove the valve due to the excessive carbon build up but there are ways to do it.

Some ways to diagnose if this might be your problem (WHILE OCCURING AND STILL HOT):

  • Do a compression test while the engine is HOT. If you have NO to very LOW compression when hot and compression returns when cold, then you have found your problem.
  • If you’re lucky enough to have an engine where the exhaust valve is located below the spark plug, simply remove the spark plug and rotate the engine while watching for full movement of the valve thru the spark plug hole. If you have less than full movement when hot and full movement returns when cold, then you have found your problem.
  • Remove the valve cover and watch the other end of the valve, the valve stem for movement.


Some ways to diagnose if this might be your problem (WHILE ENGINE IS COLD):

  • Remove valve spring keepers, springs, washers and check for free movement of valve stem in bore for the full length of the valve. You will need to remove the valve cover and cylinder head for this check. The valve might move ok for a small distance but will be very tight when completely removing from its’ bore. If this sounds like your situation then you have found your problem.
Most times it will be either electrical or fuel related, but before you go completely bald, after chasing all the electrical and fuel possibility’s, you might want to check your exhaust valves! The scenario I painted above is more for single cylinder engines however it still applies to twin’s .With twins you could have this issue with one cylinder and not the other and that will affect the symptoms slightly.
 
Had same issue on my 1872, it would run fine and then it would stop like I turn it off. Turned out to be bad coil.
 
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