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1811 slung a rod

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Nothing against SEW. But for myself I would truck on down to Hong Kong freight and get myself a 23 hp China engine for around 700/800$.
 
I have about that much in my Command swap, but the engine I used had 400 hours on it.

What is the availability of repair parts for the imported engines? Crank seals? Carb kits?

It still has to be adapted to the tractor too.
 
Found me an engine block on ebay. I'm going to try replacing that instead of the whole engine.
 
Update. I've just about decided to switch the old engine out with a 23 hp Vanguard. I'm hearing it's a pretty straightforward switch. Any ideas or experiences with this out there?
 
Don’t forget to set the free speed governing RPM And set it at 2800 not 3000 it will live a lot better in the long run on new engine and retest after 10 hours run time !!!!! I always tested two RPM’s types shaft out put and electric cat tach gun !!! My SON and student !!!!!!
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Don’t forget to set the free speed governing RPM And set it at 2800 not 3000 it will live a lot better in the long run on new engine...

No, no no...

Modern V-twin in an enclosed 82 series chassis MUST have wide open throttle set at 3600 RPM under load to cool properly. Run it at 2800 all day long and it will overheat.
 
In addition to the full throttle operation, cleaning the engine every season will prolong its life when it comes to overheating. I have oil pressure gauges on every Magnum 18/20 I own. You can tell when the oil gets real hot, the pressure will lower a bit.

When it comes to a water cooled engine, keeping the RPM's down lower will prolong the life. Less stress on the rotating assembly and piston rings, but these air cooled engines were designed to run all day every day at 3600 under load.
 
I agree with cleaning the engine occasionally to help keep it cool, part of a good maintenance plan.
I too have a magum 18 in my 1882 and am interested to know the details of your oil pressure gauge installation. That sounds like a useful tool. Thanks!
 
I used a mechanical SW brand oil gauge. I used a 2" hole saw to cut the hole in the dash, then a Dremel tool with a carbide tip to open the hole slightly to fit the 2 1/16" gauge.

Stewart Warner Heavy Duty Series Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge 2 1/16" Dia 284D | eBay



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I used a fitting "T" to keep the oil pressure warning lamp functional.

SBC OIL PRESSURE GAUGE T ADAPTER FITTINGS TO USE WARNING LIGHT and GAUGE NEW | eBay

Some Magnums used a smaller 1/16" oil pressure fitting. All but one were 1/8" NPT, same as many cars/trucks.

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There is some debate about which oil feed tubing is better. I went with the nylon with high temp insulation added. Some guys prefer copper tubing. Some have used 3/16" brake line. Due to vibration, I did not use the copper. I have had the oil gauges on the tractors for about 2 years and no issues with the nylon. If I ever encounter a break with the nylon, I have several feet of the copper tubing to replace it with.
 
I did a similar thing with my 1872, except electric. I didn't want to have the oil line to the gauge as a possible failure point. I moved the hourmeter under the hood and put the oil pressure gauge in its place. There is really no need to constantly be able to see the hourmeter.

An oil pressure gauge is a great addition; it will allow you to see overheating start to occur before it's too late to do something.
 
Not trying to hijack the thread, but, could you post some pics of your electric oil pressure gauge and sending unit on your 1872 Matt?

I like your SW mechanical gauge 1811Cub.

I might try one or the other on my 1811.
 
Sending unit (also put in a tee so I could keep the idiot light):

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Here's the gauge:

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When using the electrical gauges, make sure that both the pressure range and impedance range match on both the gauge and sender, or it will not work properly.

Edit: If it wasn't obvious in the pics, I have replaced the original engine with a newer Kohler Command.
 
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