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dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Got the newly purchased 169 up and running yesterday.
Was glad to find the gas tank was empty and nearly spotless inside!
Cleaned all the ground connections and it fired right up although I did have to jump to the S/G to get it to crank due to an issue with the either the switch or solenoid..
Will have to pull them and clean well when I get a chance.
Starting a list of parts it will need starting with a hood hinge.
Hope to get it washed well tomorrow when the temps are forecast to be in the 60's Woo Hoo!!
But for now it runs and goes both directions. Will get it into the trailer for the winter and get started on assembling the 128 engine that had been patiently waiting.
Anyone have a decent rebuildable #30 carb they can part with??
 
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hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
David - what's your intention for the 169? Restore? Refurb? Keep its cloths original?
I think you said it had one original tail light lens. Can you check the part number on the lens and let us know what it is? This is one of the things I wrote about a while back. You can't find the original lenses now. The ones you do find have a '75 date code at best.
And another thing - you can get an original hood hinge, but a Quiet Line hinge will also work (if you can find one) and they just never fail. If you do get a QL hinge they do cause the hood to sit just a few milimeters higher. Just saying since I don't know your intentions yet.
 
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dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Harry
Gonna get it cleaned up & 1/2 way presentable for now is all.
Here's the rest of the spec's just in case anyone is still keeping track.
eng ser# 6304405, Spec #71154a K341a

.And the #'s from the tail lamp lens
ReflecO=Lite 378 AE P-A-70
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
Harry
Gonna get it cleaned up & 1/2 way presentable for now is all.
Here's the rest of the spec's just in case anyone is still keeping track.
eng ser# 6304405, Spec #71154a K341a

.And the #'s from the tail lamp lens
ReflecO=Lite 378 AE P-A-70
HOORAY!!!!!
David - you have ONE original 169 tail light lens, but the markings should actually be 378 SAE PI-A-70. Now you have to be on the HUNT for a 2nd one to match it. They are RARE and extremely hard to find. ALSO, you have to be REALLY REALLY careful if you're at a show because they can be removed very easily.
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
PO Mods...
Ya gotta love 'em
Like to never get the 7/16" nuts off from the inside of the air cleaner base.
It's a #30, probably original.
The owner said he bought it around 1990 or so.
I just may be the 3rd owner.

DSCN8151.JPG
 

hydroharry

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David - just leave the studs in place. Once the air cleaner cover is on no one is going to know the difference except you (and the guys that read the Forum).:lurking:
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Gave the old Gal a bath today and uncovered some more goobering in the process.
May have been it's 1st ever real bath!!
Check out the pic's of the goober job on the rock shaft.
Still has the original belly pan w/original screws!
The trunnion will need a little help and I have no idea what's up with that front driveshaft mount. Never seen on like that before. The foot pad screws popped right out with a smack from the impact driver. Gonna need a muffler too the way it looks. Did Charlie ever get a deal nailed down for re-pops??
.
.
 

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mfrade

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Mike Frade
Hoo Boy! she's had some hard hours working for a P.O. , At least you'll put 'er right, no question about that!
 

hydroharry

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David - I know what you're saying about ignition keys at shows. Here's what I collected at the last show I attended. Couple of these are pretty rare :yikes:
various keys and fobs.jpg
 

hydroharry

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Bill - yes I know none are correct for a 169. I was just showing off the INDAK key with the IH logo (and there is one stamped John Deere). :roflol:

David - were you even able to drive your 169??? I've never seen a trunion looks so terrible. And that front drive shaft coupler is really strange. Like 1/4 turn before it even contacts the drive shaft. Whoa is me.
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Got the carb rebuilt today and the 1/4" studs removed.
They were only screwed in a couple threads is all but the PO did manage to screw up the choke shaft in the process causing the choke to bind. All is well now with that.
Had to bush the throttle shaft as well.
All in all it cleaned up pretty nice but I am still on the lookout for a nice #30 carb.
Will have it drivable sometime tomorrow.
 

hydroharry

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Got the carb rebuilt today and the 1/4" studs removed.
They were only screwed in a couple threads is all but the PO did manage to screw up the choke shaft in the process causing the choke to bind. All is well now with that.
Had to bush the throttle shaft as well.
All in all it cleaned up pretty nice but I am still on the lookout for a nice #30 carb.
Will have it drivable sometime tomorrow.

DRIVEABLE TOMORROW?????? With the trunion and driveshaft coupler in those conditions???? It'll probably jump all over the place. I'll be waiting to hear how it goes.
 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Got the rebuilt carb on and set, changed the oil after warming it up and drove it around some.
Hydro warmed up nicely although it is a bit jerky in it's operation as expected what with the badly worn trunnion slots. That will have to wait till spring or maybe I will get caught up enought to get to it this (ugh!!) winter yet.

The trans looks to have Hy-Tran in it, at least it looks and smells like it and appears clean from what I can tell by dipping my little finger in through the fill hole..
No apparent leaks either which is a good sign.
Anyway, It's buttoned up in the trailer for now.

Looks like i will be making a muffler for it as I have been unable to find a hint of a replacement listed anywhere. Surely there is an aftermarket one some where that will come close to fitting I would think.

Thinking about a short piece of big truck exhaust pipe to keep the weight down and maybe EMT conduit for inlet, outlet and holy through pipe. Maybe stuff it with stainless steel wool pan scrubber/scratcher material.
 

hydroharry

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Dave - I just can't hardly believe Charlie doesn't have any of the 169 mufflers. He himmed and hawwed at having them made up a few years ago because he would have to have 120 of them made (I think that was the number).

I guess if I were you I'd probably look hard at buying Charlie's NOS replacement Noise Suppression Muffler "Kit No. 2", and then modifying the muffler to have the correct size and straight inlet pipe for the 169. I only recommend this cause you're so handy with metal work and welding. Here's the listing from Charlie's site. Note he does say in the description "and a few others with a little work!"

New Old Stock Noise Suppression Muffler PN/ IH-59365-C1 IH 59365 C1 KIT 2
Fits 108, 109, 128, 129, 149 and a few others with a little work!
$200.00

 

dschwandt

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David Schwandt
I'll think on the homemade one this winter, no hurry.
I did make a couple for the Q/L's but they are way heavy.
The pipe I used was too thick wall.
 

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