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jboelens

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John Boelens
Sorry Rick, Guess holding the tape measure over the backside of the hour meter "just wasn't good enough". Thought I was trying to help rather than hurt. I guess I shoulda tore apart my complete panel with meter, mic'd the Outside diameter of the hour meter, figured in the U bracket clearance, and gave that overall dimension. and then Mic'd the inside diameter of the panel so everything would be N.O.S. measurements. Or, I'll just stay quiet next time.
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rbeem

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Sep 25, 2006
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John,

No harm in trying to help. I do appreciate everyones efforts. Really.
I should have been more clear for what I asked.

My "tone" should be tempered by the fact that I am here among peers, and everyone is used to dealing with each others different personalities.
I got information that was less than accurate and it irritated me. I'll get over it.

My gauge 2 1/16" (my calipers)
Hole 2 3/32" (Charlie's tape)

Rope any length will do. New or old.
 

jboelens

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John Boelens
Mike, Let me know if you locate some rear taillights for your 169. I'm looking around for a pair as well.
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
John and Mike - there is at least one Sponsor above that has the tail lights (base and lense) for a 169. If you don't really need the red lense he also has a good deal on amber color. I'd like to actually see how the amber color looks in contrast to the yellar n'white paint, etc. Thinking they might look pretty good. If either of you are going for a 100 point 169 and you want original lenses, the last 2 digits of the number on the lense are 70, and you'll probably be looking for years to find them. The replacement lenses end in 75 (red or amber color).

Now, with regard to the hole size for the Hour Meter, is it possible the panel you were measuring had additional paint thickness resulting in a smaller actual hole?
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jboelens

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John Boelens
Harry- Maybe I'll try the amber - heck, everything else on the cub is yellow instead of red!
 

junderwood

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John Underwood
Mike,

Glad that machine went to a good home. It was hard for me not to buy it but I just have too many projects. I picked up an original roller with a 38" deck and pto kit on it from the same place you got the 169. Good luck on the restoration.
 

rbeem

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I've considered getting the ambers and doing an alternating flasher arangement. Would be cool I think.
I'll probably do that on my loader tractor.
 

jboelens

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John Boelens
I'm at a loss on this 169. went through carb completely, repaired sloppy throttle shaft. Carb rebuild kit as well. I still cannot get this thing to go over "about" half throttle without it dying. seems like it's getting plenty of fuel, but no black exhaust to show too much fuel. Plenty of fuel flow from the tank.

Maybe I should replace the points and condenser (even though spark looks good at points while running)... coil?

Next - hydraulic lift is really a let-down right now - perhaps it's the rpm related problem - I have a brinly tandem disc that this 169 WILL NOT lift - I can remove the rear tandem and it'll lift the front disc, and a 50# weight on it. This 169 even has the rear lift assist spring on it. I've tried adjusting that in and out as well.

Just plain and simply frustrated with this wide frame. Bout ready to unload it and get me two more roundy fenders models and be done with it!
 

kide

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Gerry Ide
John:
" (even though spark looks good at points while running)" . If you are getting a lot of spark at the points, I'd ensure you've got the coil and condenser wired correctly and if so, change the condenser. One of the functions of the condenser is to suppress that arc when the points open. Al son make sure the points are not binding on the pivot, as this'll show up as a RPM limiter..

Usually an ignition related problem at higher speeds will show up a a ragged miss, while fuel related issues will show as a distinct loss of power. BTW - a loose throttle shaft will not affect wide open throttle operation, as the air leak from a loose throttle shaft is miniscule once the butterfly is just little more than cracked open..
 

fcurrier

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Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
John:

Just plain and simply frustrated with this wide frame. Bout ready to unload it and get me two more roundy fenders models and be done with it!

Hang in there!!! I've had a pretty (not very) good day dealing with Andy. Thing is, I can accept what I believe to be my wrench turning "prowess" and my realization that the old guy was built back in the days that precision mattered.
I'm looking at it as if I have one of the 4005 that were built (and wondering how many are left). Frusterated? Park it and wait 'til the American Pickers come around. Just call me
Frank.
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abriar

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Adam Briar
John,
Your symptoms sound similar to what happened with my friend's 1450. It would run great from idle to about 1/2 throttle but die if we tried to run it any higher. I ended up taking the carb back apart and pulled out the main needle and seat to find it had dried crusty gas plugging holes. Cleaned it out and it runs great now.
 

jboelens

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John Boelens
Gerry - I'll get a set of points and condenser at work tomorrow (work at a Case IH dealership) and try that out. Also picked up the spart tester from my cousin too for assurance I'm getting through the coil and to the plug.

Frank, I'll keep you in mind. A name hasn't stuck yet with this one, but if it's what I've called it this weekend I'll have to make sure little ears are not around!

Adam - I thought exactly the same thing so I pulled the high idle screw out and cleaned it again (3rd time) and all holes flow clean.

It's possible it's ignition, I did let it die out one time, and when I shut key off I got a lil bang out of the carb - like it tried to send fire one more time... Hopefully I'll get it straightened out tomorrow night.
 

rbeem

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John B.
Do you have a fuel filter on your 169?
I have had poor luck with most fuel filters other than a Primeline sintered metal filter.
My 149 would reach operating RPM's momentarily then starve out and max out just over idle speed.
I about pulled my hair out over it.
You'll get it hell, it runs. That's half the battle.
 

mfrade

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Mike Frade
Frank wrote.
"Thing is, I can accept what I believe to be my wrench turning "prowess" and my realization that the old guy was built back in the days that precision mattered. "...

Reality Check! The "70's" were the decade of almost non existant quality for american products! It was all about get it out the door as fast and as cheap as we can! Tolerances were no-where as near as what they are today! cars died before 100K or the bodies rusted away before then! FOMOCO had to have commercials about how quality was JOB 1 in the 80's 'cause the big 3 scared all the customers away with their junk!

Today almost any engine will go 200 / 250K before much trouble..

Don't gloss over the "old days" to much... as far as the Kohler, if it's running poorly, keep searchin' for the cause, we're obviously overlooking some thing! And good tip on the main jet.. Guilty of overlooking that one myself!
 

dtanner

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Donald Tanner
John Boelens

I will bet that you will find that your problem is timing . What is your points set at now ? I had a bear of a time with my rebuild 125 to get it running correctly. to close a point setting and it would idle but not go wot. I have a much larger point setting than the manual says and the 125 now will start and run great. It was frustrating to say the least.
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kide

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Gerry Ide
John..... bunch of good suggestions, but remember - do them one at a time, then test.... Shotgunning solutions at an engine usually ends up with more problems...
 

hydroharry

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Harry Bursell
John - this almost never happens but "I'm in agreement with Don Tanner".
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Before I'd go replacing parts and testing other things I'd put a timing light on it and see where it's set, and then adjust those points until you've got that flywheel make dead nuts centered in the site hole. Setting the points at .020 is just the starting point so the engine starts and runs. You really have to set the timing, and although Don didn't mention how much his gap is now, I'll bet it's .025 or more.

Mike F - hey, lets roll back the clock here.
Who said
"The quality goes in before the name goes on"???
 

jboelens

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John Boelens
Well, Good news. the I D ten T award goes out to me. After all of the good suggestions, and things to check, started double checking fuel, spark, points, etc. Hooked the spark tester up inline, points had good "spark" but spark to plug was intermittent. weak then strong, then none at all when she died out. Changed to condenser (would have changed the points too but they'll be here tomorrow)... but regapped at .025. Then a buddy is helping me, and asks why I have the condenser on the ignition side instead of the points side.. got to looking and I had the darn coil wired backwards! She runs out pretty good now, after a lil more carb screw tweaking.

Now- next hurdle is these darn hydraulics and the rear hydraulic lift. Wont lift my brinly disc with a 50 lb weight, and tandem disc. It'll barely lift just the front disc with weight. Will not lift tandem disc (no 50# weight). I'd assume that a tiller would weigh more than my tandem disc? Maybe have a hydraulic problem? checked rear fluid, added about a quart of Hytran. I could do a pressure test on the pump? the hydro part of the tractor seems strong, runs forward and reverse nice (even does wheelies now that it'll rev!)
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