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Kirk Engines, Inc Cub Cadet Used Parts CADET CONNECTION Cub Cadet Specialties Cub Cadet Specialties

149 driveshaft

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rfcampbell

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Robert Campbell
I was wondering why did cub cadet turn the 5/8 driveshaft down to 1/4 on the welded flange rubber coupler end of the shaft where it goes into the cast coupler on the hydro on a 149? I noticed that the shaft is supported only by 1/4 to 3/8 inside the cast coupler on the hydro This isn't much support if the shaft is supposed to stay centered Always the holes in the cast hydro coupler gets worn and egg shaped and the shaft is off center Why didn't cub cadet leave the shaft at 5/8 and don't machine it down to the 1/4 that cub did? The shaft would be supported better and stay centered not wear as bad if left at 5/8
 

mgonitzke

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Later models had a 5/8" ID spherical ball bushing in the rear coupler and the full diameter driveshaft sticking into it.

IH probably did not anticipate these machines lasting 50 years.
 

rfcampbell

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Robert Campbell
Later models had a 5/8" ID spherical ball bushing in the rear coupler and the full diameter driveshaft sticking into it.

IH probably did not anticipate these machines lasting 50 years.
yes the quiet line cubs like the 1250 1450 1650 cubs used the ball and the bronze swivel bushing I don't see why a person cant upgrade and change the old style hydro rear coupler in a 149 with the 5/8 ball and swivel bushing the later cubs used Of course, u will need to change the rear coupler off of the hydro
 

kashaver

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Kelvin Shaver
'M' probably has it right. IH probably didn't anticipate that we would be still trying to keep it running this many years later. Look how long it has lasted made like it is!
 

rfcampbell

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Robert Campbell
Later models had a 5/8" ID spherical ball bushing in the rear coupler and the full diameter driveshaft sticking into it.

IH probably did not anticipate these machines lasting 50 years.
on a 149 cub why cant a person take off the old hydro coupler off the hydro and drill it out to 5/8 from the end where the hydro shaft was pinned as a guide to center your drill bit? I mean the old coupler is worn from the drive shaft being not centered anyway This way u can have a 5/8 diameter shaft size supporting it better than a 1/4 shaft support had
 

mgonitzke

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on a 149 cub why cant a person take off the old hydro coupler off the hydro and drill it out to 5/8 from the end where the hydro shaft was pinned as a guide to center your drill bit? I mean the old coupler is worn from the drive shaft being not centered anyway This way u can have a 5/8 diameter shaft size supporting it better than a 1/4 shaft support had
Might as well just get the coupler with the ball bushing in it at that point.
 

rfcampbell

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Robert Campbell
Might as well just get the coupler with the ball bushing in it at that point.
have u priced a new one lately? of course if u have a used one would work but still it would need the ball/ bushing replaced Drilling the old coupler out to 5/8 from 1/4 saves u a lot if u went this way And besides don't a coupler with the ball bushing change the length any?
 

mgonitzke

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have u priced a new one lately? of course if u have a used one would work but still it would need the ball/ bushing replaced Drilling the old coupler out to 5/8 from 1/4 saves u a lot if u went this way And besides don't a coupler with the ball bushing change the length any?
I have bought several. You should be glad they are still available. I don't see much benefit to drilling out a used coupler to 5/8" all the way through. You'll have to replace the driveshaft anyway, and the same thing will eventually happen, just a bit slower.

I have had very few tractors that did not need the whole driveshaft replaced after 40+ years. Do it right once and you probably won't have to touch it again.

Honestly, if I was faced with replacing the entire driveshaft on a hydro model, I'd modify and install a 2000/3000 series driveshaft. Couplers are available to make it a nearly drop-in solution, the driveshaft is easily shortened, and it's a much better design than either the rag joints or the CV joint shaft on the "cyclops" models.
 

rfcampbell

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Robert Campbell
I have bought several. You should be glad they are still available. I don't see much benefit to drilling out a used coupler to 5/8" all the way through. You'll have to replace the driveshaft anyway, and the same thing will eventually happen, just a bit slower.

I have had very few tractors that did not need the whole driveshaft replaced after 40+ years. Do it right once and you probably won't have to touch it again.

Honestly, if I was faced with replacing the entire driveshaft on a hydro model, I'd modify and install a 2000/3000 series driveshaft. Couplers are available to make it a nearly drop-in solution, the driveshaft is easily shortened, and it's a much better design than either the rag joints or the CV joint shaft on the "cyclops" models.
do u have a pic of a 2000/3000 cub driveshaft? There is nothing wrong with modifying a 'used'' coupler Once u drill it out to 5/8 its as a new one again a improvement over the factory 1/4 hole in the hydro coupler Besides it take years even decades to wear out again Sure, but replacing the shaft is necessary with a 1250 1450 cub shaft instead with a full 5/8 support on the hydro coupler Anything is possible I don't lose sleep over it
 

buck

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that "ball coupling" is a rzeppa joint used in early jeep and weapons carrier front hubs and also ii believe many larger 4wd drive truck front acles
 

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