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129 hydro drive shaft hole is to big pins fall though.

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mjwhalen

Active member
Joined
May 21, 2012
Messages
28
Location
WI
displayname
Mike whalen
I was wondering if anyone knew a place in wisconsin that would make a next size up pin 1/4 + 001 or 002 the drive hub is in good shape yet hate to have to buy another drive shaft. I replaced them both 5 years ago . I have a hose clamp holding the pin in now : ) dont think that will hold up for mowing season !!
 
I was wondering if anyone knew a place in wisconsin that would make a next size up pin 1/4 + 001 or 002 the drive hub is in good shape yet hate to have to buy another drive shaft. I replaced them both 5 years ago . I have a hose clamp holding the pin in now : ) dont think that will hold up for mowing season !!
https://www.ccspecialties.org/clutch_driveline_rearend.html
1619230604936.png
 
You are using the correct size SPIROL pin I assume??
I have been told they are a dowel pin . I have used both seems to be no different . guess I bite the bullit and order out the shaft and drive hub. and order what ever pin they show from cub cadet specialties. Thank you for your help !
 
A dowel pin and spirol pin are not the same. A dowel pin does not fit as tight as a spirol pin. If the hole does not look wallowed out try a larger spirol pin
 
129 has a dowel pin at the front of the driveshaft and a spirol pin at the rear. He implying it is the front pin, and all of you except Charlie are assuming it is the rear one.

This wasn't IH's best driveshaft design, IMO. If it were mine I would replace the front coupler and dowel pin with the rag joint style like a 1250/1450/1650. That is the only way to truly "fix" it for it to last.
 
129 has a dowel pin at the front of the driveshaft and a spirol pin at the rear. He implying it is the front pin, and all of you except Charlie are assuming it is the rear one.

This wasn't IH's best driveshaft design, IMO. If it were mine I would replace the front coupler and dowel pin with the rag joint style like a 1250/1450/1650. That is the only way to truly "fix" it for it to last.
That's exactly what I did on my 129. I got tired of having to keep replacing the pin.
 
Thanks I have ordered the parts from CC specialties wish i would have waiting a little longer would have liked to try the rag joint idea. could you tell me a little more of how to replace the front coupler with the rag type ? Thanks again Mike
 
129 has a dowel pin at the front of the driveshaft and a spirol pin at the rear. He implying it is the front pin, and all of you except Charlie are assuming it is the rear one.

This wasn't IH's best driveshaft design, IMO. If it were mine I would replace the front coupler and dowel pin with the rag joint style like a 1250/1450/1650. That is the only way to truly "fix" it for it to last.
Could you tell me the part numbers it will take to change it over please. It is the front couple and shaft I am having trouble with parts for the new shaft and coupler came to 120.00 plus the pins. But I like your idea !!
 
(1) Drive shaft Flange Assy 903-0204
(1*) Flex coupling 722-3000
(1) Coupling arm 748-3001
(1) 1/4" x 1 1/4" coiled spring pin (spirol pin)
Also will need a couple of 3/8" bolts, 4 washers, and 4 metal lock nuts, aka stover nuts. DO NOT use nylock or fiber insert nuts. They will loosen over time.

*Maybe two of these. Not sure how lucky you will get with hole in the front of the driveshaft lining up with the new coupling arm. Use of two of the flex couplings might either make it line up, or move the coupling arm back far enough on the driveshaft as to allow you to drill a new hole far enough behind the existing hole as to not cause the shaft to break.

I have not done this, but I think the hole for the solid pin in your current driveshaft is much farther forward than the location where the hole will need to be for the new coupling arm, and use of two flex couplings (like the later tractors with this style driveshaft) will locate that hole in a solid part of the driveshaft and not cause issues by being too close to the now unused hole for the solid pin. So you will simply need to drill a new 1/4" hole in the driveshaft and use a spirol pin to attach it.
 
This is a parts list with pictures to convert. Through some horsetrading, I ended up with a parts 1450 w/o engine so I had to purchase the engine parts separately. Since the 129 engine is solid mounted, you may not need item (50) but I installed it anyway. I just modified my original shaft to work with the new set up. It's been a few years but I think I shortened it besides drilling new holes. You will need the spirol pins that Matt listed above for the driveshaft. My parts manual does not show that.

Parts List
1) Shaft, Drive #IH-140079-C1
2) Arm, Coupling #748-3001
3) Disc, Flexible Coupling #722-3000
4) Flange, Drive Shaft #703-0204 (Superseded to 903-0204)
5) Coupler, Drive Shaft #719-3027 (Superseded to 919-3027)
7) Bushing, Self Aligning Ball #741-3004 (Superseded to 941-3004)
8) Fan, Cooling #IH-547749-R1 (Superseded to IH-547749-R2)
50) Ball, 5/8 Cr Stl #723-3022

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