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1282 red cub cadet information pleas

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ToddL

Active member
Joined
Jan 29, 2020
Messages
32
Location
Angola Indiana
Hello everyone I have an opportunity to buy a 1282 red cub. I was wondering if anyone has any info as to specs parts availability and repair. It is nonrunning, has plow, rear tiller, and mower deck that all work. I was told that it sat for a month or so and wouldn’t start so he used one of his other three mowers and this has sat for a couple years in a garage. Is this worth buying? What would you pay for it with all accessories. Thanks
 
Hello everyone I have an opportunity to buy a 1282 red cub. I was wondering if anyone has any info as to specs parts availability and repair. It is nonrunning, has plow, rear tiller, and mower deck that all work. I was told that it sat for a month or so and wouldn’t start so he used one of his other three mowers and this has sat for a couple years in a garage. Is this worth buying? What would you pay for it with all accessories. Thanks
Here's some specs,
http://www.tractordata.com/lawn-tractors/001/0/9/1095-cub-cadet-1282.html
As faar as what it's worth, who knows. We've not seen it, and have no idea the condition, so that question can't be answered. (y)
 
Digger is right, condition and hours mean everything here. Is this a money making venture or do you need the tractor and the attachments? that also comes into play. 1282 is a very solid tractor. not running though, it is a risk. If I was buying I would have to pay as if the motor and the Hydro are both shot. 12 HP motors are easy to get and so are the hydros. but if you cant see or hear them you must plan for the worst. Is the motor locked up? pull the plug and spin by hand. what does the hydro fluid look like?

send pictures please
 
Years ago I bought a 782 with a known blown KT-17 (it was disassembled in a box) but came with everything, a 44C deck and #2 tiller. I wanted the tiller and the deck was better than the one I had. What I paid, I bought the tiller and deck, and got the tractor “for free“ (at least in my eyes). I still use the tiller and deck, and the 782 has donated many parts to keep other tractors going.

If it just doesn‘t run, does it turn over and not start, or is the engine in a box? Things like this all factor in. I have a number I would throw out on what you listed in the first post.... and for me, I would be looking at a non runner that you don’t know why, I would look at it as fair prices for the attachments, and a reasonable offer for a parts tractor. If you happen to be able to get it running, that’s just a bonus.

Also, if it doesn’t run, winch it on the trailer and fix it at home. Heard more than one seller getting really mad when the “ this thing will never run again” is fiddled with and driven on the trailer (not just tractors, by the way).......
 
Good advice Snick, don’t fix it in front of the seller. It’s just not right. If you do that you need to renegotiate the price. I’ve never had the seller raise the price on me, but they’ve given me a firm hand shake and a “thanks for your honesty” which is worth more than a few hundred bucks I could have walked away with.
 
Digger is right, condition and hours mean everything here. Is this a money making venture or do you need the tractor and the attachments? that also comes into play. 1282 is a very solid tractor. not running though, it is a risk. If I was buying I would have to pay as if the motor and the Hydro are both shot. 12 HP motors are easy to get and so are the hydros. but if you cant see or hear them you must plan for the worst. Is the motor locked up? pull the plug and spin by hand. what does the hydro fluid look like?

send pictures please
It is not locked up. I want it mostly for the snow plow and the tiller. So I can put in food plots. It sat for a while. So I am guessing it is a fuel issue or no spark. Are parts readily available? My uncle owns it an has it stored in his pole barn. He didn’t need it so he just stopped using it.
 
Years ago I bought a 782 with a known blown KT-17 (it was disassembled in a box) but came with everything, a 44C deck and #2 tiller. I wanted the tiller and the deck was better than the one I had. What I paid, I bought the tiller and deck, and got the tractor “for free“ (at least in my eyes). I still use the tiller and deck, and the 782 has donated many parts to keep other tractors going.

If it just doesn‘t run, does it turn over and not start, or is the engine in a box? Things like this all factor in. I have a number I would throw out on what you listed in the first post.... and for me, I would be looking at a non runner that you don’t know why, I would look at it as fair prices for the attachments, and a reasonable offer for a parts tractor. If you happen to be able to get it running, that’s just a bonus.

Also, if it doesn’t run, winch it on the trailer and fix it at home. Heard more than one seller getting really mad when the “ this thing will never run again” is fiddled with and driven on the trailer (not just tractors, by the way).......
My uncle owns this and offered to help me get it running. What is the attachments worth? Plow tiller and mower deck?
 
My opinion, I would offer 300-400 and go from there. I'm down by Indy, and know what I have paid for things is Central Indiana and Central Illinois, so this is part of my price. In some places, this stuff would be worth a lot, and somewhere that Cub Stuff is more plentiful (like Cubsylvania) it would be worth a bit less. Parts are available, the colorful boxes at the top can help you out there.... Plus the 1282 runs the K321AQS Single Cylinder 12hp Kohler that 1200/1250 Quietlines do.

This is just one persons opinion of how I would approach it. Some would say to offer to "haul it off to get it out of his way", or offer "scrap" price. Someone else my say you should start at $1000..... Me, I would go with cash in hand, pull out $300, and offer it. Have a max that YOU are comfortable with.... and stick with it. If you want to stop at 600, then one of two things will happen, you will have a trailer full of new toys, or 600 bucks in your pocket. Remember, cash is king, I've gotten closer to the deal that I wanted with the offer, in my pocket, ready to pull out. Keep your "reserve" separate, or do what I do, momma keeps a hold of the "wiggle room" stash. Don't be afraid to walk away. I had a couple of deals (even on a vehicle at the dealer) that I made an offer, they declined, and I got in the truck and went home. I got a call before I even made it home, they were willing to accept my offer if it still stood. Went back and made the deal.
 
What's the sheetmetal look like? All kept inside?
Are we talking snowplow, or moldboard plow?
If it's all straight/not rusted out or bent to hell/ I'd probably go $400 maybe 5 if it's all nice and it's stuff I could use.
 
My opinion, I would offer 300-400 and go from there. I'm down by Indy, and know what I have paid for things is Central Indiana and Central Illinois, so this is part of my price. In some places, this stuff would be worth a lot, and somewhere that Cub Stuff is more plentiful (like Cubsylvania) it would be worth a bit less. Parts are available, the colorful boxes at the top can help you out there.... Plus the 1282 runs the K321AQS Single Cylinder 12hp Kohler that 1200/1250 Quietlines do.

This is just one persons opinion of how I would approach it. Some would say to offer to "haul it off to get it out of his way", or offer "scrap" price. Someone else my say you should start at $1000..... Me, I would go with cash in hand, pull out $300, and offer it. Have a max that YOU are comfortable with.... and stick with it. If you want to stop at 600, then one of two things will happen, you will have a trailer full of new toys, or 600 bucks in your pocket. Remember, cash is king, I've gotten closer to the deal that I wanted with the offer, in my pocket, ready to pull out. Keep your "reserve" separate, or do what I do, momma keeps a hold of the "wiggle room" stash. Don't be afraid to walk away. I had a couple of deals (even on a vehicle at the dealer) that I made an offer, they declined, and I got in the truck and went home. I got a call before I even made it home, they were willing to accept my offer if it still stood. Went back and made the deal.
Thanks for the advice it is my uncles mower he told me to make and offer. I just want to be fair on the price but also not be stuck with a mower that won’t run. For 300 bucks would I be able to sell the plow tiller and mower deck and get my money back?
 
In my opinion, yes.

The tiler would bring he most. The plow, if it's a manual snow blade, or moldboard plow, they would bring about the same. If it's a hydraulic angle snow blade, it could go for a good bit. Deck depending on condition, may bring the least. I wouldn't be surprised if you got it for 300, and decided to piece the attachments out, you may even make a bit on the deal. I know that's not your goal, but it's at least an option. With the K-Series Kohler, they are pretty tough. About the only thing that would kill it is throwing a rod, or cracking the block. They are fairly simple to rebuild if needed (Dad and I have done several). I would be more than happy with a 1282.
 
In my opinion, yes.

The tiler would bring he most. The plow, if it's a manual snow blade, or moldboard plow, they would bring about the same. If it's a hydraulic angle snow blade, it could go for a good bit. Deck depending on condition, may bring the least. I wouldn't be surprised if you got it for 300, and decided to piece the attachments out, you may even make a bit on the deal. I know that's not your goal, but it's at least an option. With the K-Series Kohler, they are pretty tough. About the only thing that would kill it is throwing a rod, or cracking the block. They are fairly simple to rebuild if needed (Dad and I have done several). I would be more than happy with a 1282.
That is great information thank you I think I can buy it for 300 and he would be happy to have the space back in his barn.
 
I finally bought this cub 1282
6 hours of repairs later is runs great.
I can not figure out how to install the front belt the runs the tiller. No matter what I do it seems to be about 3 inches to short. I even tried to disconnect the adjustable pully and no go. Any ideas?
 
I finally bought this cub 1282
6 hours of repairs later is runs great.
I can not figure out how to install the front belt the runs the tiller. No matter what I do it seems to be about 3 inches to short. I even tried to disconnect the adjustable pully and no go. Any ideas?
The belt has to be WM-63385 USE IH-135553-C1- 21/32 wide 154 5/16" Long


Not specifically for a 1282, but it will give you the basics.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/2 Tiller Operators Manual.pdf
 
Thanks for the info. I was able to install the belt. It is very tight.
the tiller worked well but I noticed that there was a leak from behind the PTO. Does anyone happen to have a repair manual that shows how to replace the seal?
 
This manual has what you need to know about removing the PTO and replacing the seal. The easiest way to remove the seal is with a couple sheet metal screws and a small pry bar. (wonder bar) or a screw type dent puller. Before you drill the holes in the seal, try to get the part number off of the old seal. I have been buying the replacement seal from NAPA for years.
http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf
 
593AB6FE-2F46-4BA3-9462-6F84965F0520.jpeg
It it it was mostly fuel issues. Drain the tank, clean the carb and maintenance like changing the oil etc. she sat for over 6 years. Worked when parked. Pictures aren’t great.
 
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