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127 vs Murphy's Law

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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jdjohnson127

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Jeff
Finished rebuilding the K301 and installed it back into its home in my 127 a few weeks ago. It took awhile to figure out where everything goes as most of the ink on the location tags faded badly after waiting 3 years. Finally fired it up and it ran great on the first try. After warming it up I backed it out of the garage and into the yard for a victory lap. BUT Murphy got in the way! The hydro would not go into forward. I backed back into the garage and started searching for answers. The check valves seemed to be the answer because I left it in release mode after pushing it into the shed for storage. (The valves are our for rebuild as I right this.) Murphy watched as I started to split the hydro from the frame. The first thing he did was crack the eye off the neutral return lever as the clevis pin was seized (used replacement part in transit). Then Murphy started laughing as I attempted to remove the brake rod from the frame. The roll pins were difficult but eventually popped out. Several attempts, and half a can of PB Blaster, I realized the levers on the brake rod were also seized in place.

First question for the forum: What are the acceptable methods to get the levers loose from the rod without breaking anything else? I have already buffed the accessible rod sections with emery cloth in hopes of getting the levers to break loose to a less corroded surface.

Second question is an attempt to keep Murphy away: Is the control rod end that connects to the cam/speed control plates have a slight bend an inch or so down from the guide pin? Murphy wanted me to straighten it out but the OCD in me talked me into getting the answer from those in the know.

Please help. My wife wants her side of the garage back.
 

mgwin

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Marty A. Gwin
Jeff,
First of all, welcome to the forum!!! You have came to the right place.
Nice to see you are taking all this with a good attitude. That will go a long way.
Unfortunately, I cannot help you much with your mechanical problems, but I can help you with one thing.
Unless I am badly mistaken, those roll pins are not roll pins, but coiled spring pins. The coiled spring pins are much stronger, and last much longer than the roll pins.
To get them out "waaaaaay" easier, go online and find you a set of "roll pin punches." These punches have a round tit on the end of them that get the center of the coiled spring moving before the outside, making them come out much easier. I bought a set of them for around 12 bucks. One of the best investments I ever made!

The other guys will help you with the mechanics soon. Hang in there. :bluethumbsup:
 

jdjohnson127

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Jeff
Thank you Marty.

It just so happens that my grandson & I were at our local Fleet Farm (large midwest general store with a farmer attitude) swapping out the battery Murphy had worked his magic on. On the way out we walked down the hand tool isle and noticed the set of roll pin punches right at eye level, took a closer look and threw them in the cart. Never checked the price because knew I would need them again some day. They ended up costing more than the battery. The spring pins are on my shopping list for the next trip to neighborhood hardware store. I really should just get an account there!

I appreciate the welcome.
 

mgwin

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I will be surprised if they have the coiled spring pins. Do your research online to find the best deals.
If you need several cub items, you could shop at CCSpecialties and add the spring pins to that order. Charlie has most sizes. (y)
 

mgwin

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David,
Yes, these pins can be called spirol pins. Spirol is also a corp. that makes these pins.
I got better search results using the term "coiled spring pins" . "Spirol pin" search included a lot of other type pins including the roll pins.
 

kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Jeff, here's a photo of a hydro and linkages from a 127 from my archives (Photo by "Big Bob"). I'm not 100% certain which part you are referring to. Hopefully you can pick it out. If it's the one I think you are referring to, there does appear to be a slight "crook" to it.

127 Hydro.jpg


I have photos of one that was in a parts 107 that I had. Someone needed a replacement so I took a bunch of detail photos of it before I shipped it out. (Yes, a previous owner painted it UPS Brown.
Animated facepalm.gif
)

Linkage_01.jpg
Linkage_02.jpg
Linkage_03.jpg
Linkage_04.jpg
 

jdjohnson127

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Green Bay, WI
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Jeff
That's the one. Mine had a clean yellow spec in the pit of the bend that made me stop and ask for help before throwing it in the vice and straighten it out. Mega thanks to you.

I also got the pedal shaft out of the frame. It took almost a full bottle of propane to heat up the cast iron levers and my neighbor's 5 pound sledge (mine was only 2 pounds). The rod is cleaned up and waiting for the new lever. I'm gonna use anti-seize compound in case I get a wild hair and decide to go the restoration route.

Thanks again for the assist.
 

jdjohnson127

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Green Bay, WI
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Jeff
Murphy struck again during reassemble. Bought a new after-market rag joint to connect hydro to drive shaft. BUT when I tried to reconnect the hydro I was a 1/4 inch short. I was home alone and could not get the leverage to get even one bolt started. Pry bars and prayers didn't help any more than the extremely blue language. Long story short, I dug out the original rag join (I never throw anything out), set it back into place and it slid in like it was on greased wheels and bolted up in 5 minutes. Happy and taking a few days off.

BUT one more question. At what angle is the tab connected to the bottom of the speed control shaft supposed to be when returned neutral?

Help if you can, laugh if you must.

Thanks always. Will try to post pictures once I figure that out also.
 
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