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125 Motor Issue?

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dsarow

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Jul 13, 2014
Messages
125
Location
Near Madison Wi.
displayname
Dean W.Sarow
I have a 12hp.Kohler in a 125.The previous owner said recent over haul.I had the hood open and was going to start it.While turning over,the dip stick kept jumping up and down in the tube.What does that mean,what should I do and is it safe to run.Thanks,seems to run good otherwise.
 
I'd guess either missing or worn O-ring on the cap part of the dipstick. If there is no resistance at all when pulling the dipstick out, that is likely the problem.

No big deal in and of itself, but I'd be skeptical of a "rebuild" in which the owner was too dumb/cheap to replace a 50c O-ring on the dipstick...
 
What Matt said, however it might be a good idea to check the breather assembly which is located under the carb. Normally the crankcase should be under a slight vacuum, if it's under pressure that would seem to indicate that the breather is not working properly. I had the breather in the 12hp in my #2 125 freeze up and blow the dip stick and a bunch of oil out of the tube. I have an after market breather cover on mine which has a remote outlet with a rubber hose to direct the oily gases down below the frame rails and I forgot to remove the rubber tubing for the winter per the instructions. Here's a photo showing the location of the breather cover. It's the black plate with the brass fitting. The stock plate would typically be the engine color and have louvers on it in place of the brass fitting.

Breather Cover.jpg


Here's a stock cover.

Stock BREATHER COVER.jpg


Here's the breather assembly.

K301 Breather.jpg
 
I had the same problem with a K161 in a 70. If your dipstick is like mine and the dipstick is no longer a friction fit in the tube, the solution is not a .50c. o-ring. (At least no one on here told me of a o-ring of any kind that would work when I asked back in July.)

If you can find a new dipstick for your engine, that is the proper solution. I don't know if Kohler still offers them or not.

I have mine working by wrapping a short length of 5/8" heater hose around the rubber grommet-above the orginal sealing surface- and forcing it into the dipstick tube. The hose had to be slit lengthwise and a portion removed in order to fit.

The crankcase breather won't work properly if the dipstick won't seal in the tube. The pulses from the piston going up and down just blow out the dipstick hole. I am thinking that when working correctly, the breather reed valve asembly should be able to maintain at least a 10" water column vacuum inside the crankcase.
 
I've had a 129 for 4 years ...no problems other than the usual maintenance issues but I noticed a filter in your breakdown of the breather assembly. I didn't know it had one. Should it be replaced or cleaned periodically ?
 
Take it apart and you'll likely find it is all crumbly and brittle.
Just be sure to note how it all goes back together.
You will need 2 gaskets.
 
One other question/possibility....

How much run time is on the engine after the rebuild? Was is rebuilt a couple of years ago and has several hours on it? Or was it rebuilt "last month" and has enough run time to do the head gasket re-torque? If is only has minutes, or an hour or two, the rings may still be seating.... blow-by is normally more on a freshly rebuilt engine, than one that has many hours/miles on it.

Somewhat apples to oranges, but on some vehicle sized diesel engines, it can take several thousands of miles for everything to seat in properly and blow-by to reduce...
 
Pull the dipstick out and reinsert several times and note how much resistance, if any, there may be.
Should tell you a lot right there.

Hold a finger over the tube w/o the dipstick installed and turn the engine over and see how much pressure if any there may be.
 
I'd guess either missing or worn O-ring on the cap part of the dipstick. If there is no resistance at all when pulling the dipstick out, that is likely the problem.

No big deal in and of itself, but I'd be skeptical of a "rebuild" in which the owner was too dumb/cheap to replace a 50c O-ring on the dipstick...
What type of dipstick tube does your cub use? If the problem isn't too much blow by and its a dipstick rubber issue then this depends on what type of dipstick/tube u have If it is the shorter dipstick that came out the camshaft cover then yes, it uses a o-ring and a o-ring replacement is needed But if its the type of a long tube pressed on top RH of the block, that used a much longer dipstick, then this type didn't use a o-ring system it was different
 
I have the same after market type setup on my 100 and 1250 for the breather. One thing that Polaris and Kawasaki do is to cut a slit in the hose. That way if it freezes it vents out the cut. The new Mule Pros are good at blowing spark plug o-rings the solution cut a slit in the breather tube. Sorry if that was a bit off but I am to lazy I guess to remove the hose in the winter.
Also usually like the others have stated if the engine has enough blow by the dipstick will be pushed out. I would never trust a engine that I didn't do myself. Especially since I have seen people put rings in upside down among other things.
 
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