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Took out the plug was all corroded, Autolite plug. Smelled of gas also. Got a brand-new Champion H10C and gapped it to .025 and put it in fired right up. Got it running, just need to adjust carb it's hunting and shuts off before the throttle hits lowest point.
 

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Glad that got it running.. Autolite is a good plug but they all go bad eventually.. Check where the throttle shaft goes through the carb.. That is the vertical shaft that the throttle linkage connects to.. If the bushing that it passes thru is badly worn it will suck air and leans out the mixture too much and will make it not idle down.. but that is an easy fix too...
 
You mentioned gas running out of carb. If it's running out then it's running in the throat. It's probably flooded before you even start cranking. P. S. I don't think these Starters like to crank that long. You are going to cook it
 
You mentioned gas running out of carb. If it's running out then it's running in the throat. It's probably flooded before you even start cranking. P. S. I don't think these Starters like to crank that long. You are going to cook it
It's cranking fine now, with the new plug. I shut the gas off after running. We'll see if it's still dripping.
 
If gas is running out of the carb (most likely out of the bowl vent) it needs to have a carb kit put in it. Not going to heal itself.
 
Tap the hole for a #12 screw.
The original screw should be a #10-32.

Remove the choke plate and shaft so as not to screw it up.
Be careful not to loose the spring and ball bearing in the left side hole when removing the shaft,
File the exposed threads on the screws holding the plate flush with the shaft before removing the #4 screws that hold it in place. Then secure w/lock-tite when replacing them.

There is a detent on one side of the left end of the shaft. The tiny ball bearing catches the shaft detent when in the open position. The shaft only goes in the same way it comes out.

Start with a standard tap and do not hit the back side of the choke shaft bore then finish with a bottom tap.
 
When checking for the fuel leak before removing the carb, check around the fuel bowl attaching bolt on the bottom of the bowl and also around the fuel bowl sealing gasket.. The fuel bowl is made from thin aluminium and if you tighten it too much it will distort it and cause a leak... This is very common on these carbs...
 
Kevin is right. You have to prove where the gas is coming from before you can fix it.Paper towel and patience,Eventually the spot that is wet first is your clue but...it won't leak sitting if your needle valve is sealing and the float is correct when the line is open.Running vibration may make a difference.Just a whole bunch of little details....
 
Not sure if I am in the neighborhood of being on the right track here,, But if the carb keeps running over after you have renewed the needle and seat and adjusted the float level, Then I would suspect a leaky float. take the float out, hold it up to your ear and shake it,, if there is a rattle like liquid in it,, then toss the float because it has leaked. Hope this helps, Rich
 
Also if you use lock-tite, use the blue lock-tite.. It will allow you to remove the screws or bolts without heating them.. If you use red it must be heated to 400 degrees to break the bond.. And with a carburetor that can be a problem.. Myself I prefer lock washers...
 
Does the carb kit come with new gaskets? I bought a full engine rebuild kit to have extra gaskets but it didn't seem to have the carb gaskets.
 
Probably just gonna get another carb. She's running but rough and I cannot get the carb to adjust properly. I'm sure with the air cleaner not sealing tight around the stripped thread its not helping. I did find the serial number finally, it begins in 15 which according to the chart narrows it down to June of 1966 as the production time.
 
If it's worn around the throttle shaft it is just about impossible to get it adjusted. Always sucking extra air
and running lean.
 
If it is sucking air around the throttle shaft, Ace Hardware has a bushing kit you can buy for a couple bucks and repair it.. I did it to my 169... Maybe Kraig has the repair guide as it used to be on the old site...
 
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