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Message: <blockquote data-quote="William Adams" data-source="post: 238942" data-attributes="member: 17783">I started by spending some time checking the important stuff, namely drivetrain health. The engine "looked" healthy. Other than the suspicious black color, it appeared to be 100% stock. I read somewhere that CC replacement engines are factory black? Anyway, after fiddling with electrical bits and replacing the carb with a knockoff, it fired right up and sounded perfectly healthy. No smoke, weird noises or foibles. I tested the hydrostatic transmission and it went forward/reverse without issue. Pretty quiet for a hydro in my experience. As I had already mounted the chassis on my improvised roll around cart, I couldn't test torque output but it seemed reasonable to assume it was generally serviceable. I pulled the relief valves (actually did that first before testing g) and got them to pop up from their stuck down position. Pretty easy... I also pulled the differential top cover for a look at the all important spider gears, bearings and ring gear. The oil, though low, (she's a piddler!) Looked clean and cared for. Gear tooth wear was indicative of a well cared for transmission. [ATTACH=full]147633[/ATTACH]The transmission downside (so far) is that the external trunion shift linkage is dreadfully worn at all bushing points. Lots to do there.I spent a lot of time that I won't relate here getting all of the unneeded bits (front axle, steering column, mower mount, etc) removed. The chassis, while it looked pretty good, was actually pretty rusty. The frame is fine, but the instrument panel tower, hood and rear panels were pretty crusty and, around the battery box, partially gone. No problem. I'm a sheet metal guy, among other skills. Brakes:As this was going to be differential steering g, I wanted more brakes than I'd ever need. Also.....relatively inexpensive. To that end I only had a couple requirements. Rotors needed to be 5 on 4.5 that fitted 15"inch wheels, i.e. small diameter rotors. The ones I sourced are for a Pontiac something-or-other (Alero? I'll find the part #) and the calipers are for a Geo Prism. [ATTACH=full]147635[/ATTACH]After much head scratching and a bit of fiddling, I fabricated what ended up being pretty simple caliper mounts. The calipers came with the mounts so all I had to do was fill in the space between the caliper and the axle housing. Pretty straightforward.I mounted the rotors to the axles. The long bolts shown are explained in more detail...[ATTACH=full]147636[/ATTACH][ATTACH=full]147637[/ATTACH]The sprocket are mounted to the axles by using 2"x4.5 on 5 wheel spacers. Rather than mount the wheel spacers the conventional way, I drilled the axle flange bolt circle (lugnut holes) to 1/2", then mounted the sprockets to the wheel spacers first, then sliding the wheel spacer wheel studs through the rotor and axle hub, putting the lugnuts onto the "backside" of the axle flanges. So its: bolt sprockets to sheel spacers with grade 8" 1/2"x20 this bolts. Then take the wheel spacers and slide the protruding studs through the axle flange, putting the lights on the backside of the flange. Whew! I might need to take a photo of that....For the steering master cylinders, I used 2015+ Ford F150 clutch master cylinders. The short rubber brake line that comes off the caliper is also f150, but with the banjo fitting drilled out to 3/8". The hard line from the rubber line is just 5/16" flared brake line. Pretty easy.</blockquote>

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