Kirk Engines, Inc Cub Cadet Used Parts CADET CONNECTION Cub Cadet Specialties Cub Cadet Specialties

122 Cub Replacement Clutch

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

Brad campoli

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2021
Messages
6
Location
New jersey
Good morning everybody. I have acquired a 122 cub and last weekend while working with a heavy duty homemade York rake the clutch gave up. I use the rake to maintain about 3/4 mile of steep dirt road to access my property. I don’t the cub for cutting the lawn however itsed to haul a garden trailer around the property which is far from flat ground.

All that said, do you guys think I should replace the clutch with stock parts or should I look into a heavy duty clutch? Or can you make any recommendations as I am new to all of this? Thanks in advance for your input. I have attached some photos for your reference.

thanks,
Brad
 

Attachments

dschwandt

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
3,912
displayname
David Schwandt
What do you mean by the clutch gave up?
Did it come apart, break or what?
Throw out bearing OK?
Adjusted properly?
Main spring still intact?
Spirol pins still in place?
Some more info would be most helpful
 

dfrisk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
6,246
displayname
Dennis Frisk
BRAD - Dave has questions we need answers to. It's been my experience of running gear drive Cub Cadets that those 6 inch dry plate clutches take countless hours of slipping, and once they fully engage your rear tires will spin FOREVER with no harm to the clutch.
The stock clutch parts, pressure spring, teaser spring, friction plate, steel pressure plates, and throw-out bearing are easily up to years of hard use, like 20 or more. I dropped a hopped-up 14 hp engine in my #72 Cub Cadet 15 years ago, along with mostly all Midwest SuperCub pulling tractor clutch parts. Then I used it to mow my yard for most of one summer. You should see my old throw-out bearing! I replaced everything with stock clutch parts. I still have a MWSC 4140 pre-hardened driveshaft and coupler, but replaced the RED die spring pressure spring with a stock spring, throw-out springs last a couple years now. I've taken my #72 to a half dozen garden tractor plow days, plus plowed several really big gardens. If you run your tractor correctly you should always drop the plow in the ground while moving, as you should do with your York rake.
 

Brad campoli

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2021
Messages
6
Location
New jersey
What do you mean by the clutch gave up?
Did it come apart, break or what?
Throw out bearing OK?
Adjusted properly?
Main spring still intact?
Spirol pins still in place?
Some more info would be most helpful
I’m not not much of a mechanic but it appears the driving dry clutch disk broke apart and must have fallen out because it’s no longer there and it seems as if the tractor is in neutral no matter what gear it’s in. My friend hasn’t yet taken everything apart yet to see what other parts are needed.
so if it makes sense to go back with all stock should I replace more than just the clutch disk? Does it make sense to replace bearings, springs and other related components while we are doing it or am I just over complicating things for no reason. I don’t like to be penny wise and pound foolish. In my opinion, the time and labor to take the machine apart to make the repair far exceeds saving $100 in parts, however I value what you guys have to say because you know far more about these than I ever will.

thanks,
Brad
 

Attachments

dschwandt

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
3,912
displayname
David Schwandt
I'd take the complete drive line out of the tractor and inspect everything and replace all that needs attention.
Don't be surprised if the throw out bearing is toast along with the teaser spring and possibly even the driveshaft itself with grooving on the surface from the main spring.
Do it all right and do it once.
Good luck!
 

Brad campoli

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2021
Messages
6
Location
New jersey
I'd take the complete drive line out of the tractor and inspect everything and replace all that needs attention.
Don't be surprised if the throw out bearing is toast along with the teaser spring and possibly even the driveshaft itself with grooving on the surface from the main spring.
Do it all right and do it once.
Good luck!
Thanks for the input
 

hydroharry

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
4,126
displayname
Harry Bursell
Brad - I fully agree with Dave S. You really need to remove the clutch assembly and dis-assemble, and then inspect components before you can determine everything you need for repairs. Also, make sure you reference the Service Manual info when doing this.
 

mfrade

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2000
Messages
2,160
Location
New Bedford, MA
displayname
Mike Frade
Times 2 or 3 by now.. If you guys do it right, it'll be good for another 30 plus years! And the colorful boxes at the top of the page have just about all you'll need! I'm kinda partial to C.C.S. myself.
 

dfrisk

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
6,246
displayname
Dennis Frisk
New clutch friction disk for sure, the one that failed might have been the factory installed disk. The three driving roll pins hammer the holes in the disk and cause the hole to elongate. Cub Cadet tried bonding friction material to a steel stamping years ago, but I think they went back to solid friction material.
A new teaser spring should always be installed. Cheap and really improves easing the clutch into engagement. Broken teaser spring causes clutch to instantly grab. New throw-out bearing if the old one feels gritty when turning or outer race wobbles on inner race. New big pressure spring, it's probably the factory installed spring, they take a set and don't press the clutch plates against the friction disk as hard. It's probably 50 years old, time for new. Check the rear end of the driveshaft, the roll pins that go through the holes in the coupler tend to egg-shape the holes in the driveshaft, the pins get loose and you will occassionally break the pins. The rear most hole on the driveshaft wears the most, a 1/4" pin or bolt should be snug, an aftermarket (Midwest SuperCub) 4140 prehardened driveshaft is recommended, with a new coupler and spirol roll pins, NOT the cheap split kind. Also check the front end of the transmission input shaft to see if the 1/4" roll pin hole is worn also. If it is, replace it, and why you have the reduction housing open, replace the disk brake friction pucks, and the o-ring around the brake piston, and the needle bearing on the input pinion, the BIG ball bearing is probably fine, but check it, and maybe replace the pinion shaft oil seal. You'll need a new gasket for the plate that closes the reduction housing.
Seems like a lot of parts and money, but your replacing lots of 50 year old parts. And you will never have to give them a second thought again for 50 years.
The. 1965 model 70 I refurbished 8-9 years ago had a LOT of hours on it, mowed two BIG farmyards every week all summer for 9-10 years, we had to overhaul or replace the stock 7 hp Kohler every three years, finally bought a complete 10 hp Kohler and installed it in 1981, Wife was pregnant with SON, and Dad wore that engine out, and not sure if it was a 7 or 8 hp He replaced it with or where it came from, but it's got a completely rebuilt 10 hp in it. And things in the driveline and transmission were in surprisingly good shape when I refurbished it.
If you have questions, just ask.
 

Brad campoli

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2021
Messages
6
Location
New jersey
Brad - I fully agree with Dave S. You really need to remove the clutch assembly and dis-assemble, and then inspect components before you can determine everything you need for repairs. Also, make sure you reference the Service Manual info when doing this.
Thank you for your input. Where can I download the service manual?
 
Top