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14 horse in a 149 leaking oil

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Steve Settle

New member
Joined
May 23, 2023
Messages
1
Location
Kerrville Pa
I have 149 cub that developed a crank seal leak so I have to replace it. I was told it's a 14 horse motor. It's a fairly old tractor 70s. How hard do you think it would be to find a seal for the thing
 
I have 149 cub that developed a crank seal leak so I have to replace it. I was told it's a 14 horse motor. It's a fairly old tractor 70s. How hard do you think it would be to find a seal for the thing

https://www.ccspecialties.org/kohlerparts.html
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I have 149 cub that developed a crank seal leak so I have to replace it. I was told it's a 14 horse motor. It's a fairly old tractor 70s. How hard do you think it would be to find a seal for the thing
Welcome Steve! Do yourself a favor and just get the parts from CCS,they'll be right the first time around...guaranteed!
 
Welcome Steve!
Yes, CCSpecialties can get you all you need, and more. When you go to the site, shop around. He has a lot of cool stuff.
 
I have 149 cub that developed a crank seal leak so I have to replace it. I was told it's a 14 horse motor. It's a fairly old tractor 70s. How hard do you think it would be to find a seal for the thing
JUST a suggestion and some might disagree. If the leak is a very small leak and not a gushing one, you may try this. Put about 4 ounces of brake fluid in your oil, run the engine for about 5 minutes or until good and warm, and then shut it off and let it sit overnight. The next day, start it up and run it for about 10 minutes, shut it off, and then immediately change the oil using either SAE30 or SAE40. Clean all the 'leak' areas off with a hose pipe or something when it is cold, then just wait awhile and see if the leak has been stopped or at least slowed down. I've tried this in the past on old engines (suggestion credited to my brother who is an auto mechanic) and it worked quite well. However, if a seal/gasket is totally shot and worn out, this 'trick' might not work. It'd be a cheap way to find out before tearing into an otherwise good old engine.
 
Any "mechanic" who suggests the above is a hack, not a mechanic. 40, 50+ year old worn seals need to be replaced. Why risk damaging the engine instead of spending a whole $10 or so to replace a seal that lasted half a century?
 
Even if that trick did work, it would not work for long.
The amount of time spent trying to see if it would work, would be about the same amount (or less) of time it would take to replace the seal.
"Don't put a band aid on it, fix it!"
 
I seriously doubt if it would damage the engine if done as described. Free to take it or leave it. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion in this great Democratic Republic in which we reside. (Also, my brother is not a 'hack'. He has built and maintained quite a few auto race engines, mostly Chevrolet, as well as various small engines for 50+ years) The idea was a suggestion and not intended to be left in the engine any longer than as described, nor as a permanent 'fix'. Furthermore, as stated, if the seal is totally shot and leaking pretty badly, then it needs replacement anyway... again... JMO...thanks for the reply.
 
I have personally NEVER had to work on the original 14HP Kohler on my 1973 Int Cub Cadet 149 in the 30+ years I have owned it. Only normal maintenance, oil changes/filters, etc. I did not realize that it would be so easy to change the crank seal. If that is indeed the case, then, of course, I would also change the crank seal!
 
I seriously doubt if it would damage the engine if done as described. Free to take it or leave it. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion in this great Democratic Republic in which we reside. (Also, my brother is not a 'hack'. He has built and maintained quite a few auto race engines, mostly Chevrolet, as well as various small engines for 50+ years) The idea was a suggestion and not intended to be left in the engine any longer than as described, nor as a permanent 'fix'. Furthermore, as stated, if the seal is totally shot and leaking pretty badly, then it needs replacement anyway... again... JMO...thanks for the reply.
A Lil brake fluid caused the rubber seals to swell. Nothing Hacky about that. I'm sure they use something else in the 'high mileage' oils that they sell but basically these oils are softening and swelling seals
 
A Lil brake fluid caused the rubber seals to swell. Nothing Hacky about that. I'm sure they use something else in the 'high mileage' oils that they sell but basically these oils are softening and swelling seals

It causes them to swell because they are chemically incompatible with it. Band-aid. Doesn't fix anything. It's not going to put back worn away material or heal cracks and tears in the seals. I have crumbled enough old, dried out seals and o-rings out of things to know that the only way to fix something like this is to replace it. I'll say it again...real mechanics fix problems. Hacks do things like this that either don't solve the problem or cause others.

The 'high mileage' oil additives are likely in much smaller concentrations and more importantly, have been extensively tested to ensure they won't damage anything else in the engine.
 
Since the subject has been brought up, this is a video I ran across that tests all the different engine stop leak products and their effectiveness.

 
Saying an additive to soften old seals is a band aide to me is like saying that you do not polish your Sunday boots, when they get scuffed you replace them
I say try it, might last a week might surprise you!
 
Saying an additive to soften old seals is a band aide to me is like saying that you do not polish your Sunday boots, when they get scuffed you replace them
I say try it, might last a week might surprise you!

How will softening an old seal that got hard, shrank, and cracked work? How will it replace material that has worn away?

I'll say it again...it may temporarily stop the leak, but it does not correct the root cause of the problem.
 
When my Sunday boots get 50+ years old, I don't think polish will do them any good. They are only about 15-20 years old, and I have already ordered their replacement! :errrr:
I could maybe see trying the softening trick if ; 1. it took a day or two to replace the seal 2. it was a slow leak 3. I needed the tractor now.
If not, I would go ahead with the replacement, because eventually you will have to replace it.
As R Mass 1 said: If the seal is totally shot and leaking pretty bad, it needs replacing anyway.
 
How will softening an old seal that got hard, shrank, and cracked work? How will it replace material that has worn away?

I'll say it again...it may temporarily stop the leak, but it does not correct the root cause of the problem.
You are assuming
Why ont try and buy enough time to use the tractor for spring planting and then teplace during a slow time
 
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