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Bret McFarland

Bret McFarland

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2022
Messages
208
Location
Western Maryland
I have a carburator on a 2182 (Kubota wg600 gas) that needs to have the choke on slightly to run smoothly. I want to try to clean the carb without taking the bowl assembly off (if possible) because I am not sure it is serviceable. It is a japanese Keihin carb and a new one from Kubota is over $500. I have tried 2 aftermarket carbs but both leak fuel out the bottom through the automatic shutoff, and worse … both cause the engine to miss. Is there a good fuel treatment or carb cleaner that would work to actually fix the choke problem? Thanks
 
I don’t see any aftermarket rebuild kits. I’ll have to call a Kubota dealer this week to see if they still sell them. Since I am returning a new junk carb that leaks I may as well try to get the fuel bowl off and see whats inside, since they’ll likely pitch it in the trash anyhow :). I always rebuild my carbs if I can or at least clean them.
 
Last edited:
So I finally got the fuel bowl off ok was stuck on there tight. I’ll clean it out now and maybe all I will need is a rubber fuel bowl gasket.

The old carb doesn’t miss — the new el cheapo carbs both cause an engine miss. I wonder whats up that?
 
Don't be afraid to remove and disassemble your carb. If you don't have a manual or "exploded" view diagram of it, just take copious notes and / or pictures as you disassemble it.
I use a one gallon can of Berrymans carb cleaner that I buy at Walmart. It looks like a paint can. When you open the lid, it has a basket inside that you put your parts in and then lower it into the liquid cleaner. READ THE DIRECTIONS on the can.
It warns you not to soak gaskets, "O" rings, "rubber" parts or any other "soft" parts as they can be dissolved or softened by the cleaning fluid. I think they recommend not leaving aluminum or die-cast in the solution for more than 6 hrs. or so, could be wrong.
I've used it for 20+ years, works great. never had any problems. All the parts come out looking like new. You can use it many times. One can should last you for years and clean many carbs.
I always wash off any grease / oil and dirt with gas first, then let it dry before using the cleaner to keep the solution as clean as possible.
 
jlord said:
Don't be afraid to remove and disassemble your carb. If you don't have a manual or "exploded" view diagram of it, just take copious notes and / or pictures as you disassemble it.
I use a one gallon can of Berrymans carb cleaner that I buy at Walmart. It looks like a paint can. When you open the lid, it has a basket inside that you put your parts in and then lower it into the liquid cleaner. READ THE DIRECTIONS on the can.
It warns you not to soak gaskets, "O" rings, "rubber" parts or any other "soft" parts as they can be dissolved or softened by the cleaning fluid. I think they recommend not leaving aluminum or die-cast in the solution for more than 6 hrs. or so, could be wrong.
I've used it for 20+ years, works great. never had any problems. All the parts come out looking like new. You can use it many times. One can should last you for years and clean many carbs.
I always wash off any grease / oil and dirt with gas first, then let it dry before using the cleaner to keep the solution as clean as possible.
Click to expand...
Hey thanks for these great tips! I have never taken the time to soak carb parts but makes total sense. I normally charge right into a carburetor but when I saw the price of a new one and the other poor choices I held off. These Keihin carbs are well made however.
 
I have an ultrasonic cleaner that uses water & a bit of cleaner like “simple green”.
Prices vary depending on size. If you might have other uses for it they are a good investment, & no really harsh chemicals needed.

VEVOR 30L Industrial Ultrasonic Cleaner with Digital Timer&Heater 40kHz Professional Large Ultrasonic Cleaner Total 1200W for Wrench Tools Industrial Parts Mental Instrument Apparatus Cleaning https://a.co/d/azRA1SS
 
Last edited:
Lacquer thinner, used it for 50 years. I just rebuilt my K321 Walbro after sitting almost 20 years, and it was bad. You need to completely disassemble it to do it right, get a kit and it’ll be like new. I was disappointed the OEM Walbro kit didn’t come with a Viton tip needle. Wiped off the old Viton tip one, good as new.
 
jlord said:
Don't be afraid to remove and disassemble your carb. If you don't have a manual or "exploded" view diagram of it, just take copious notes and / or pictures as you disassemble it.
I use a one gallon can of Berrymans carb cleaner that I buy at Walmart. It looks like a paint can. When you open the lid, it has a basket inside that you put your parts in and then lower it into the liquid cleaner. READ THE DIRECTIONS on the can.
It warns you not to soak gaskets, "O" rings, "rubber" parts or any other "soft" parts as they can be dissolved or softened by the cleaning fluid. I think they recommend not leaving aluminum or die-cast in the solution for more than 6 hrs. or so, could be wrong.
I've used it for 20+ years, works great. never had any problems. All the parts come out looking like new. You can use it many times. One can should last you for years and clean many carbs.
I always wash off any grease / oil and dirt with gas first, then let it dry before using the cleaner to keep the solution as clean as possible.
Click to expand...
Long gone but in my day everyone used Partsdip - same setup - gallon container with a basket inside...
 
I am gonna throw myself in the line of fire, but...I have used Pinesol - overnight soak with impressive results. it seems to work well even after about 4-5 hours. I have much more aggressive cleaning equipment in my shop but the pinesol does a good job and I dont have to break out the shampoo ( I agree, shampoo does work best) to smell clean.
 
PineSol does work great!!! I use it with a stainless steel "stock-pot" and small electric hotplate (on very low)... for soaking starters, generators, and armatures (after disassembly). It would clean them without damaging the insulation or coating on the field coils and armature windings.
Soak them in warm clean water (5-gallon bucket) afterwards, and blow dry with a hair dryer or heat gun (again- on low). The field coils take longer, but they will dry in a couple days.
 
Never would have thought of pine sol. I use a lot of simple green and I use kerosene in my parts washer. I also use my ultra sonic cleaner for carburetor parts. Going to have to try the pine sol. Thank you.
 
The pine-sol might work well in the ultrasonic too! Last time I used my ultrasonic I was out of simple green & found my wife’s MrClean Worked well.
 

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