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I agree, with Jack, he is 100% correct, the wheel weights are a huge PIA to get on and off. I would not do it again, and suitcase weights for the rear sleeve is an easier option. The only reason I did it was because I read on this forum that there is less wear for the wheel bearings if the weights are in the wheels and it only cost me $6.00 for a bag of concrete. Really, how much more wear does it do to the bearings? I don't know, if it is worth just having the suitcase weights for the ease of operation when the weights are needed which is not 100% throughout the entire season. Mine are on now 100% of the time, and will stay on because I don't want to go through the trouble of removing them & if needed installing them again.
 
Robert Mazzaferro said:
I agree, with Jack, he is 100% correct, the wheel weights are a huge PIA to get on and off. I would not do it again, and suitcase weights for the rear sleeve is an easier option. The only reason I did it was because I read on this forum that there is less wear for the wheel bearings if the weights are in the wheels and it only cost me $6.00 for a bag of concrete. Really, how much more wear does it do to the bearings? I don't know, if it is worth just having the suitcase weights for the ease of operation when the weights are needed which is not 100% throughout the entire season. Mine are on now 100% of the time, and will stay on because I don't want to go through the trouble of removing them & if needed installing them again.
Click to expand...
I also saw the piece about weights mounted on the wheels to save the bearings. I can't figger this out, maybe one of the forum's leading lights cud explain. I have always used a back porch rig for snow removal, never a blower, always a plow.
To save wheel bearings you must use the exact amount of oil called for in the trans - the level shown in the manual will be needed to keep the bearings in the final drive floating in oil. A buddy, Jerry Rhodes, was part of a start-up company that aimed to build a modern Elec-Trak; Jerry built the tractors. He told me to forget heavy-weight trans oil, urged using SAE 50 Racing Oil.
Cheers, Jack
 
Robert Mazzaferro said:
... the wheel weights are a huge PIA to get on and off. I would not do it again, and suitcase weights for the rear sleeve is an easier option. The only reason I did it was because I read on this forum that there is less wear for the wheel bearings if the weights are in the wheels and it only cost me $6.00 for a bag of concrete. Really, how much more wear does it do to the bearings? .
Click to expand...
Agree, the wear on the bearings thing is an old wives tale. Just pulling a garden plow w/o any weight would put way more load on the bearings, but those guys are putting hundreds of pounds on.

scau-ee.jpg
 
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STEVE B. that nice looking CC could be the one I saw at PD#1. I think it made it onto Kraig's PD#1 video, and I still have the VCR tape but unfortunately I don't have a VCR anymore!
Those of you that like to read parts books like Me may know this, but early gear drive CC's have plain bronze bushings in the outer ends of the axle carriers, the bushings were really kinda loose on my #72, looser than on my family's old 70 which also had bushings. The 100, 102, 122 also had plain bushings. The 123 Hydro was the first CC with needle roller bearings and every hydro tractor after the 123 had the needle roller bearings.
On my #72 I could feel almost 1/8th inch of free play in the outer axle bearings when I jacked the tractor up. No wonder the outer axle seals leaked! When I had the 72 in the shop installing the 14 hp engine I removed the axle carriers on the hydro tractor chassis behind my shop, cleaned them up, touched up the paint and replaced the outer axle seals, now with the needle bearings no slop in the axles, no weeping seals, I also replaced the gaskets between the axle carriers and rearend casting.
Far as wheel weights being hard to mount and dismount, REALLY? The 50+ pound solid weights may be hard to get a grip on, but a 3 foot long 1/2" rod slid thru a weight hole into the wheel weight hole on the rear wheel fixes that, the 26# IH weights are a snap to install & remove. If you guys can't install 50# weights you better not try putting on 145# IH rear wheel weights. I painted up my first pair of those when I was 12 or 13 yrs old and mounted them, I don't think I weighed 145# then. Lifting the weight wasn't that hard, but pushing that first 3/4" bolt in was a trick!
 
dfrisk said:
STEVE B. that nice looking CC could be the one I saw at PD#1. I think it made it onto Kraig's PD#1 video, and I still have the VCR tape but unfortunately I don't have a VCR anymore!
Those of you that like to read parts books like Me may know this, but early gear drive CC's have plain bronze bushings in the outer ends of the axle carriers, the bushings were really kinda loose on my #72, looser than on my family's old 70 which also had bushings. The 100, 102, 122 also had plain bushings. The 123 Hydro was the first CC with needle roller bearings and every hydro tractor after the 123 had the needle roller bearings.
On my #72 I could feel almost 1/8th inch of free play in the outer axle bearings when I jacked the tractor up. No wonder the outer axle seals leaked! When I had the 72 in the shop installing the 14 hp engine I removed the axle carriers on the hydro tractor chassis behind my shop, cleaned them up, touched up the paint and replaced the outer axle seals, now with the needle bearings no slop in the axles, no weeping seals, I also replaced the gaskets between the axle carriers and rearend casting.
Far as wheel weights being hard to mount and dismount, REALLY? The 50+ pound solid weights may be hard to get a grip on, but a 3 foot long 1/2" rod slid thru a weight hole into the wheel weight hole on the rear wheel fixes that, the 26# IH weights are a snap to install & remove. If you guys can't install 50# weights you better not try putting on 145# IH rear wheel weights. I painted up my first pair of those when I was 12 or 13 yrs old and mounted them, I don't think I weighed 145# then. Lifting the weight wasn't that hard, but pushing that first 3/4" bolt in was a trick!
Click to expand...

Denny, all, here's a link to Jon Luckey's edited version of the video I took at Plow Day V1.0:

Plow Day V1.0
 
I don't know why you would want to remove the wheel weights unless you had tire issues. I leave mine on year round. No issues for me with the lawn when mowing. I suppose if you had real soft and/or wet soil that was prone to rutting, then I could see removing the weights for summer mowing duties. But I would think that most would not have an issue.
dunno.gif
 
All thread with a nut on each side of the wheel slide weight on then a nut on the outside. Easy peasy.
 
KRAIG - I just rewatched the PD#1 video for the Umpteenth time. You pointed out Gordon Solum early in the video, he was there with his really nice 782. I bought his 982 he refurbished in 2000. I should have bought his 782 also. I'd see him at local shows, like the Edgerton, WI or Freeport, I'll at the Stephenson County Fairgrounds. He had a matching scale hay rack he built too.
I think the Cub Cadet Steve B. posted the picture of definitely was the one with the 42# H/M and newer front wheel weights. Those weights are more scarce than CC weights.
I'm same as you, I have close to 200# of weights on all 3 of my Cubbies, been on them for 20 years and will stay on. I tried fall plowing my Sister-in-law's two BIG gardens with my 72 before it had the 23 degree Firestone tires. Even all the weights didn't improve Traction much, but the Firestones did. I bought a pair of 6-12 23 degree Firestones from Miller Tire for my #70 that's actually a #100.
 

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