Battery Reconditioning?

I've seen articles on lead acid battery conditioning and wonder if it is worth trying. Apparently the steps are something like:

• Empty the battery cells.
• Clean the battery cells.
• Replace the battery electrolyte.
• Recharge the battery.
• Test battery voltage and loading.

Come spring I'll have 3 batteries that are needing replaced. My 782 battery is the best of the lot, but others need jumped every time. Has anyone tried reconditioning?

What are you going to do with the old acid? How are you going to clean the cells? Battery acid is something you don't want to mess with.
I saw a guy blow a battery in his freshly painted 68' Camaro. What a mess!!!
There can be several problems that can make batteries go bad. The plates in the cells can warp and short together. An open connection somewhere in the cell, or battery (a broke post down in the battery, for example). Almost got my head blown off due to that issue once. It was a miracle I didn't get blinded too.
You can get a fresh new L&G battery at wallyworld this spring for $25-$30. That's my 2 cents.

I'd agree with Marty. Neutralizing the acid for disposal is easy enough but cleaning the plates? And if the plates are thin / weak / broken? Lastly how would you reseal the top back on? I don't think I'd bother when a new one can be had for 30 to 40 dollars. We had a battery shop in town when I was a kid. We could drop off a battery in the morning and they'd service it for pickup in the evening.. But I think the DEP's and EPA's put them out of business.

Yeah, I looked into this as well as YouTube videos on reviving automotive batteries and I ultimately decided it wasn't worth it. As much as I'd like to believe it's as easy as they portray it to be, I know my luck and the way things go for me, so I'd either find someone who knows what they're doing and let them do it or just buck up and get new ones...

So the Wallyworld L&G batteries did have a 'price drop' -- they were pushing $75 at my local store last time I looked. The group 26 needed for my cyclops is a bit more, not sure these are available from Walmart -- went there and they were sold out.

I agree that risking an explosion is INSANE and not worth loosing your eyesight. Probably not a bad idea to wear a face shield anytime your charging a battery. But if I were to try this, several vids like the one below are claiming that you can do a simple process -- open the cell caps and put a 200amp charge on the battery for 15 minutes, repeat 5 times with an hour wait in between each cycle. I've got a Schumacher 200 amp charger.

I just accept the fact that unless you use a machine a lot the odds are you're going to replace a batt. every 2 yrs. You might get lucky and it will last 4 yrs..The only thing I know that helps is a trickle charger but if you've got several machines...well...it only takes a few mins. to replace a batt so rotating is probably the best answer..

We have battery world for made in usa batteries . The nice thing about wally world is they are shipped from China

I have luck with this. My electric golf cart has 6 / 8 volts. Bought new 10 years ago and was told they would last 5-6 years. 4 years ago had problems with them. So I did the same thing as I did with my 12 volt car battery. Dissolve 4 lb. Ebson salt in distilled water, 1 gal. And heat to 150 degrees. You my have to take some fluid out of each cell. And save. Add 2.6 ozs. Of mixture to each cell. Take saved fluid and top off each cell. It may take 6-7 charges before battery up to par. Good luck

In the latter 90’s, I put an Optima battery in my daily-driver Buick. Soon after, I put an Optima battery in a ‘66 Mustang which I didn’t drive very often.

Ever since, I’ve been disappointed with virtually every other lead-acid battery I’ve encountered. The Optimas were head-and-shoulders more reliable and impressively long-lasting. They also cost markedly more.

Anyone else run an Optima battery or have experience with them?

No experience with Optima but they look like high-end batteries. I am sure you get what you pay for with batteries. Just bought a Die Hard for my daughters college car, it was $200 — hope it lasts.

Funny how the 5 year replacement warranties have disappeared, and 3 year is only 2 now it seems on many of them.

Just bought a group 26 for the cyclops I keep at moms to clear the drive. $63 ish with tax. There were more expensive options. I don't think any of the lawn and garden batteries were priced at 20 to 30. Maybe 40 to 50 but I would have to look again? Maybe they were 35 and 45 there was a u1 and u2 I believe.

If your curious try it and let us know how it worked. What are you out? Use eye protection and better yet a face shield if in doubt. Make sure and have immediate access to plenty if running water if the worst would happen. A rubber apron and gloves wouldn't be a bad idea either?

Bret McFarland said:

I've seen articles on lead acid battery conditioning and wonder if it is worth trying. Apparently the steps are something like:

• Empty the battery cells.
• Clean the battery cells.
• Replace the battery electrolyte.
• Recharge the battery.
• Test battery voltage and loading.

Come spring I'll have 3 batteries that are needing replaced. My 782 battery is the best of the lot, but others need jumped every time. Has anyone tried reconditioning?

View attachment 152462

Click to expand...

Bret McFarland said:

I've seen articles on lead acid battery conditioning and wonder if it is worth trying. Apparently the steps are something like:

• Empty the battery cells.
• Clean the battery cells.
• Replace the battery electrolyte.
• Recharge the battery.
• Test battery voltage and loading.

Come spring I'll have 3 batteries that are needing replaced. My 782 battery is the best of the lot, but others need jumped every time. Has anyone tried reconditioning?

View attachment 152462

Click to expand...

I've owned two Elec-Traks and I know more than most about the care and feeding of lead-acid batteries. It is a fruitless endeavor and, as pointed out below, may be dangerous. For a new one be careful of Advance and Autozone; found a $40 difference for the same battery and the stores were within walking distance of each other.
Jack

jack casey said:

I've owned two Elec-Traks and I know more than most about the care and feeding of lead-acid batteries. It is a fruitless endeavor and, as pointed out below, may be dangerous. For a new one be careful of Advance and Autozone; found a $40 difference for the same battery and the stores were within walking distance of each other.
Jack

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Should have said re-conditioning is fruitless.

I dont't post much but I figured I would add to this. I have only bought one battery in 8 years the rest I get from work. The only reason I bought that one was for the dad's old diesel. I use a CTEK charger to recondition them. Costs about 90bux on the jungle website. I have two of them one is the older 4.3 and the other is the new 5.0. If it can't bring a battery back it is truly done. I do have a NOCO but it just won't do what the CTEK will.

The Optima in my truck was a rescue battery going on 5 or 6 years and I don't drive it much. Literally had 6v when I brought it home. I have one of those $300 batteries I don't remember the name I brought home from work. It had like 6v in it took about 2 weeks and now it is fine. All my AGM motorcycle batteries are rescue batteries. The garden tractors are usually Yamaha or Kawasaki U1s. I usually check our used battery bin and take out the multimeter and check the voltages. Usually anything in the 9v up range is saveable. I actually sold our BMW tech on it he was asked why I took home all the used batteries. He bought one and said you were right it really works. Over the years of being in the powersports industry and dealing those expensive batteries. i have probably tried close to every big name charger out there. But they alll seem to do the same thing and sell new batteries in the end. The CTEK is definately my go to.

Doug Rusk said:

Just bought a group 26 for the cyclops I keep at moms to clear the drive. $63 ish with tax. There were more expensive options. I don't think any of the lawn and garden batteries were priced at 20 to 30. Maybe 40 to 50 but I would have to look again? Maybe they were 35 and 45 there was a u1 and u2 I believe.

If your curious try it and let us know how it worked. What are you out? Use eye protection and better yet a face shield if in doubt. Make sure and have immediate access to plenty if running water if the worst would happen. A rubber apron and gloves wouldn't be a bad idea either?

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I’ll try it this week, seems like it can be safely done. Gloves are a great idea, thanks. I can at least borrow the wifes kitchen apron lol.

Terry Devaney said:

I have luck with this. My electric golf cart has 6 / 8 volts. Bought new 10 years ago and was told they would last 5-6 years. 4 years ago had problems with them. So I did the same thing as I did with my 12 volt car battery. Dissolve 4 lb. Ebson salt in distilled water, 1 gal. And heat to 150 degrees. You my have to take some fluid out of each cell. And save. Add 2.6 ozs. Of mixture to each cell. Take saved fluid and top off each cell. It may take 6-7 charges before battery up to par. Good luck

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Thanks for the steps!

Depending on what you mean by "reconditioning", there are units that pulse high frequency low-ish voltage AC into a battery to prevent or remove sulfation, if that is the only problem a battery has. Some newer chargers have the circuit built in.

rfunk said:

Depending on what you mean by "reconditioning", there are units that pulse high frequency low-ish voltage AC into a battery to prevent or remove sulfation, if that is the only problem a battery has. Some newer chargers have the circuit built in.

Click to expand...

Well it appears that the CTEK unit recommended by Shaggy77 will do ‘desulphation’. Is that what you mean? According to the website you connect the CTEK and it takes about 2 days to a week. That sounds a whole lot easier to try than messing with with the chemicals. Cool. Thank you.

rfunk said:

Depending on what you mean by "reconditioning", there are units that pulse high frequency low-ish voltage AC into a battery to prevent or remove sulfation, if that is the only problem a battery has. Some newer chargers have the circuit built in.

Click to expand...

Yeah a lot of chargers will do the de-sulfation. Or so they say but as I have found they all have their own form of voodoo wizardry. Some work a little better than others. My Noco Genuis was supposed to do the same thing as the CTEK. What I found is it goes into your battery is junk mode much easier then the CTEK. I do have one of those cheapy Harbor Freight chargers the 4amp Viking I think 30bux after they magic coupon or something like that. To be honest it seems to do ok for what it is.

But if you are going to spend the money get a CTEK and be done. I agree messing with battery acid is no joke. I remember when the boss didn't put the pinch off on a acid box once. The filler fell off and it was literally everywhere. It will melt shoes etc. plus the fumes you could barely breath. If you are going to play with acid have the right PPE and tons of baking soda available.

One thing I found is never try to revive a cheap lithium motorcycle battery. Since they usually lack a good internal BMS, Because you may end up making the magic smoke coming out and thus making angry co-workers. I am stupid stingy when it comes to spending money on batteries. Especially if I use the tractor part of the year or very intermittently.
I inherited a few cubs and as much as I would like to use them all. I tend to favor each one for a specific task mowing, moving snow, blowing snow etc. I would be go broke buying batteries for them all the time. The only reason I bought one for the 782D was because I thought I would treat myself. However the one it replaced was put in another tractor. That particular battery was out of a Yamaha and who knows how old it is. But 3 years after the rescue and still going. After having revived so many especially since we have one of the battery selling testers at work. Yes it works for keeping something from being a comeback. However if you revive one from the dead you can actually get it to test good. So there is something to the whole de-sulfation and it working to fix a battery.

Thanks I will try the CTEK, ordered one today $89. Sounds like it will pay for itself.