• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

steering box adjustment?

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

lrkane

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 9, 2017
Messages
46
displayname
Larry Kane
Hi. I have a 125 and the steering wheel turns almost a quarter turn before any action at the front wheels. I will be checking all roll pins etc., but remember reading somewhere that there a small amount of adjustment available at the steering gear box. Of course a rebuild would be better hwne I can but for now which bolt if any do i use to attemplt to tighten the internal steering gears?
 
Larry, yes you can adjust it slightly by loosening the jam nut and turning the cam follower in some. But my guess is the follower is worn badly and won't follow properly. It's really not that bad a job to remove the steering column and properly rebuild the box. There's a great tutorial in the FAQs. Believe me, if I can do it, anyone can! And I've done two in the past month or so.

You'll probably need to replace the follower stud. They're available at CC Specialties. I also recommend you spend a couple extra bucks for the steering upgrade kit. You won't regret repairing it!
 
You can try to adjust it.

There's probably also a FAQ about that on this website.

My experience with those steering gears is that nobody ever adjusted them until now and usually the cam follower has 2 flat sides worn into it. So you have to take them off, take them apart, clean them up and remove all the old grease, reassemble them with a new cam follower and adjust the end play of the worm, then adjust the new cam follower. Then they are good to go for a few years. Maybe even decades if you adjust the cam follower regularly.
 
On my original I was able to run the follower over a belt sander to get a good shape back, allowing me to get it adjusted.
 
Easy checks first are checking for worn or damaged ball joints (4 total) on the ends of the tie rod and drag link.
Then move onto the steering box.

I'd replace them all AND rebuild the box.
Because, well, that's just what I do....
Can't be accused of MWUI (mowing while under the influence) that way!! :)
 
Agree, start with all the rod ends. Any kind of wear will cause severe loose steering. I went through that with my 127(it was really, really loose). I did go through the box when I rebuilt the motor. It really is pretty simple to tear down, clean, adjust and reinstall. I also bought the steering improver kit from Charlie. It's a thrust washer that allows you to snug the adjustment up and still have easy steering. It really is smooth and steers with just a couple fingers.

I actually went through the box in my 149 also. Both were not worn horrible, the followers was decent, just needed a touch of dressing the burr off. Both steer really tight now.
 
And if you really want to dig into it....
If there is a lot of fore and aft movement there.....
Remove the axle and pin, check for wear, squeeze the C channel and/or shim to remove the slop.
Replace parts as needed.

Some I have seen, the spirol pin that holds the pin in place was replaced with a goober of weld and the pin itself was completely separated from the rear bushing and just hanging there!
 
Thanks guys! I rotated the follower a little so that the flat worn face isn't totally being the bearing surface. Its an improvement, but the nose of the follower digs into the rack gear if you go too far. Will get new follower they are only about twenty bucks.
 
I have a 125 with the same steering issues and wonder if there is someone who can repair this problem in Minnesota.
 
Bob Mc - Welcome to the forum. If you haven't yet, check out the FAQs page ( Cub Cadet FAQ ).

FAQ #18A ( Cub Cadet FAQ ) will help you rebuild your steering box. And #18B will help you remove the steering wheel without causing damage. If you follow the FAQs, you will be that someone who repairs the steering problems!

BTW, the CC Specialties box at the top of the page is a great source for any parts you may need to replace.

Good Luck!

Oh, in case you don't have a service manual for your 125: http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x4-5 Service Manual.pdf
 
Pulling up an old thread here…. I’m in the process of my first steering box rebuild on a 1200. I’ve taken everything apart, cleaned, inspected and begun the reassembly process.

According to this diagram there is a target assembled dimension of 25+/-, my question is +\- what?? Fully tightened I’m at about 25 5/8” from the bottom of the threads.
 

Attachments

  • 0992FF3A-86A3-4D0E-BF08-78237EEA88CB.jpeg
    0992FF3A-86A3-4D0E-BF08-78237EEA88CB.jpeg
    608.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 72633CB2-82BF-4C8A-B24A-DF2E4D48F458.jpeg
    72633CB2-82BF-4C8A-B24A-DF2E4D48F458.jpeg
    3.4 MB · Views: 0
  • E4367A16-C14E-4928-84ED-F109C58CB416.jpeg
    E4367A16-C14E-4928-84ED-F109C58CB416.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 0
  • 6F32E296-F4CB-44B9-8B91-F65E6111E57D.jpeg
    6F32E296-F4CB-44B9-8B91-F65E6111E57D.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 0
Thanks, guess I was reading a little bit too far into other information available, it’s best to stick to the basics and the manual.

Really I’m curious what the projected shaft length is. When I assemble everything and install the steering wheel I end up with a 1/8 or so gap.
 
There is supposed to be a foam spacer in that 1/8" gap between the wheel and the bushing at the top of the column.
 
Back
Top