124 voltage regulator

Has anyone replaced the old stock regulator with a modern off the shelf solid state regulator. If so what.

To my knowledge, no such thing for this application.

being an electronic tech , I cant believe that .

Well then, there is your calling!!
Let us all know when you have one to market.

I believe the issue may be, the starter / generator produces DC when in operation. I’ve never see a voltage regulator that is solid state in a DC to DC system.

When the Quietlines came out, the K###AQS engines being used have a solid state regulator on them. However, those engines have a bendix type starter with a ring gear on the flywheel, and there is a stator type “alternator” under the flywheel, that produces AC. So thi is an AC to DC system, and it is a rectifier and regulator all in one.

Investigating the operation and needs of these regulators with my PHD electrical design engineer to see if a better one exists, If not maybe design one. I do see ones for Club cart golf carts any one seen those ?

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...p/duralast-voltage-regulator-vr715/130005_0_0[/URL]

There was an article in Lawn and Garden tractor magazine a year or so back about converting a voltage regulator to solid state electronics.
The guy had instructions on how he did it, but I'm no electrician it was above my skill set.

The thing to remember is the tractor starter/generator is low output compared to automotive or truck. The regulator has to match the system's capacity. There just isn't the market for major suppliers to our particular application. I've used the Wells line of regulators for Delco 10dn alternators. I have one in my 68 Scout and won't go back to mechanical regulators; the electronics are bullet proof and steady.

There are independent builders. The local automotive/ag electrical rebuilder I use is now converting mechanical regulators to electronic. I asked him about Cub Cadet today and he said sure, he just did some for a Bolens and Allis Chalmers/Simplicity.

Here's his youtube: Converting 12V Negative Ground Mechanical Regulator to Electronic - YouTube

When my #72 was my only Cub Cadet, about every 2-3 years the battery would start going dead, turned out the voltage regulator stopped working. Then I got this rode hard put away wet 129 with the voltage regulator mounted WAY back under the seat, way away from engine heat & vibration, and the el-cheapo Standard Auto Electrical equipment voltage regulator just worked and worked, like the Energizer Bunny, while the voltage regulator on the #72 up high on the grill, bathed in intense engine heat and vibration still DIES every 2-3 years. The Simple Tractor electrical system trouble-shooting page says the relays are stuck closed from too much vibration. So one Sunday I start installing my new CC voltage regulator, I pull off the rear frame cover back under the seat, a surprising amount of room back there, probably only 3-4 degrees hotter than ambient temps, very little vibration, and the stock unmodified OEM wire harness reaches all the way back to it, you just need to make sure none of the connections short out to any metal. AND today, over 30 years later that same voltage regulator is still working. We wired up the #70 the same way. Keep in mind my #72 has a BUNCH of lights on it, also an AM/FM/cassette deck radio but the tape deck doesn't work anymore. Same vibration that killed several of my voltage regularors also killed my light switch, one Veteran's Day about 20-25 years ago I lawn vacuumed from Noon till after Midnight, was unhooking the cart outside the shop and the lights flickered, then went out. The switch was under the back edge of the battery, this 30 year old switch was burned to a crisp, the clips the wires connected to the wires were just hanging, one still electrically "hot" just hanging there. Had to do a little re-wiring before I switched from lawn vacuuming to lawn aerating the next day! I put over 25 operating hours on that Cubbie that weekend, most of them Friday from Noon till well after Midnight and a bunch Saturday afternoon.

sounds right about the heat besides the engine the muffler is directly under it. They must have thought the air would keep it cool but at 5 mph there can't be that much cooling. The rubber mounts are spent and gone so I will at least need to re-fabricate those. But being an Electronic Tech. I can't go with regulaing the voltage via relays. I want to use a solid state unit. I see some on ebay, but I got some berrings from them for front wheels that where not press fit but will work. Some of these ebay people say these regulators will work in anything. Then you find out they don't. Realy wondering if anyone has replaced it with solid state. BUT your advice of relocating is well taken Just need to look into wiring mods THANKS.

Realy wondering if anyone has replaced it with solid state.

Click to expand...

Check out the link in post 13 or give them a call

STEPHAN - No real mods needed to the wires to the regulator, just remove the wires from the clips under the tunnel, slide some rubber fuel line or convoluted conduit over the transmission and gear reduction gearbox, feed the wires through and attach them to the voltage regulator.
I've seen those voltage regulators vibrate so bad the black box seems 5-6 inches square, not the 3 inches they actually are.
I agree with you on solid state electronics, much much more durable, I've bought a lot of electronic components at the different buying jobs I've had in the past. I'VE got a variable frequency drive that changes single phase power into 3-phase plus can vary speed, I really want to hook it up to something. I've had it over 20 years, the model shop of the plant I worked at back then bought a TB Woods VFD to turn a single speed drill press into a variable speed. Everybody who walked by it sped it up and slowed it down.
60 years ago every town of any size had an "automotive armature shop" that worked on car, truck, and tractor starter and generators. Now you have to drive an hour or two to get to one.