• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

belts o my

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ken Black

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2021
Messages
271
Location
VT
You guys and your junk belts. :roflol:
smile.jpg
 
There's more to belts than cords 'n cost. Kevlar is an aramid, high end severe duty belts will have aramid cords and how do we know or not that OEM belts already have them and maybe Kevlar at that? Cords are just a building block, there's the rubber compounds, Vee profile, back side shape whether crowned or not. All of that goes into a belt on how much Hp it can transmit, how it lays in the sheave groove, etc. The rubber compounds and wraps are expensive building blocks for friction(grip), heat, flex, and Cub mule drives don't help with 1/4 turn pulleys. I've been through a whole box of OEM and after market belts, some new, that came with my Cub from the PO. The only ones holding up are the OEM belts, including some new ones I recently purchased. I suppose belts could be like race tires. Street or track tires can both get you across the finish line. Only the right ones matched to the track can keep you ahead of the pack, maybe safely.
 
There's more to belts than cords 'n cost. Kevlar is an aramid, high end severe duty belts will have aramid cords and how do we know or not that OEM belts already have them and maybe Kevlar at that? Cords are just a building block, there's the rubber compounds, Vee profile, back side shape whether crowned or not. All of that goes into a belt on how much Hp it can transmit, how it lays in the sheave groove, etc. The rubber compounds and wraps are expensive building blocks for friction(grip), heat, flex, and Cub mule drives don't help with 1/4 turn pulleys. I've been through a whole box of OEM and after market belts, some new, that came with my Cub from the PO. The only ones holding up are the OEM belts, including some new ones I recently purchased. I suppose belts could be like race tires. Street or track tires can both get you across the finish line. Only the right ones matched to the track can keep you ahead of the pack, maybe safely.
 

Attachments

  • right.jpg
    right.jpg
    74.6 KB · Views: 151
will.. probley would have worked. if it was the right legth.. looks like this one takes the 143 incher.. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
i guess iam stuck ... anyone need blood ??? lol

so if the 141 inch belt works for u... i guess its a good thing..
 
There's more to belts than cords 'n cost. Kevlar is an aramid, high end severe duty belts will have aramid cords and how do we know or not that OEM belts already have them and maybe Kevlar at that? Cords are just a building block, there's the rubber compounds, Vee profile, back side shape whether crowned or not. All of that goes into a belt on how much Hp it can transmit, how it lays in the sheave groove, etc. The rubber compounds and wraps are expensive building blocks for friction(grip), heat, flex, and Cub mule drives don't help with 1/4 turn pulleys. I've been through a whole box of OEM and after market belts, some new, that came with my Cub from the PO. The only ones holding up are the OEM belts, including some new ones I recently purchased. I suppose belts could be like race tires. Street or track tires can both get you across the finish line. Only the right ones matched to the track can keep you ahead of the pack, maybe safely.
i hated race nite sometimes.. if u went soft tryin for that 1 inch on the track.. the 1 more mph .. so on

yeah as i said in post i just did before this one.. iam goin to have to break down and find the money for it..
i had a belt for it.. it was spliting on the V but i moved and will we know what that meens...

just sucks there sooooooooo much money..... anyone need blood? i sell it cheap lol 30 a pint lol

i could change the pully on the gearbox.... i have a spare from the output side.. its about 1 inch smaller.. not sure what it would do for speeding up the tiller tho ..
 
Last edited:
will the size war is for sure in affect lol .. grrrrrrrrr
got the 141 inch belt form tractor supply... 2 inchs short hahaa
so ordered the 143 from a local dealer but after market for 60 bucks. probley 10 more then it normaly is. they like to hit you with prices becuse they feel there the only game in town..

so will keep up date once i get it. had to wait for it to be ordered.
i think its a A and I belt. not sure
 
update..... tractor supply ... SKU 146447399 toro part 130-0843 1/2 by 145 inch belt.. 80 bucks plus tax.
fits fine... enough on the mule to take it up...
did about 40ft of tilling with it. no slipping no issues...
 
Back
Top